Need help getting my 12valve tuned

E

Eastern Diesel

New member
I had my truck at the dyno and it only made 352 at the wheels the dyno isnt setup to read tq. but I was very disapointed with only 352hp. I was expecting at least 500hp.
Heres my mods:

HTT PRO street 66/13 stainless
Oring studded head ported bowls with 60# springs
215 pump, laser cuts, 4k springs, o plate,
rack plug, gutted afc, set at 500cc(can go up to 650cc if I slide plate)
.093 Injection lines, 370s
snow water injection (spraying just water)
Timing set at 18.5*

Am i doing something wrong when I dyno? I ran it up to 55, locked the converter, then punched it out to 120.
 
Since I was on the dyno Ive put the afc together and did the rack travel mod to it, and put the stock lines back on. This helped some but I dont think it runs like it should.
 
Have u checked the fuel pressure?? Also i dont think the rack travel mod benefits the 215 pumps at all, infact it might actual hurt the performance.
 
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No I havnt yet, because it smokes very very heavy so i figured it was getting plenty of fuel. Did I mess up when i put the rack plug in this 215 pump, the pump shop said it has 20mm of rack travel.
 
I've got the same problem... Smokes like crazy, but is running about 100 hp shy of what I'm almost positive it should be putting down.. I'm just about ready to send the pump somewhere and have it tuned properly and just hope it works...
 
Lucky Jeff said:
I've got the same problem... Smokes like crazy, but is running about 100 hp shy of what I'm almost positive it should be putting down.. I'm just about ready to send the pump somewhere and have it tuned properly and just hope it works...
Click to expand...
Silly question- did you dyno with those wheels and tires? We've seen weird things happen at the drag strip when we swap stock wheels for 18's or 20's. Some have lost as much as 4 tenths with the bigger tires..
 
My pump is a 887. so after i put the 2000 rack plug back in where should i set my o plate. When my pump was on the stand at a local pump shop I think it had 20mm of travel
 
joefarmer said:
Silly question- did you dyno with those wheels and tires? We've seen weird things happen at the drag strip when we swap stock wheels for 18's or 20's. Some have lost as much as 4 tenths with the bigger tires..
Click to expand...
I had 305/70/16's on at the time, they're actually shorter then a 285/75/16. I also had a blown head gasket, it ran 414 on a mustang dyno. But I don't think the head gasket had anything to do with it. Wasn't opened up between the cylinders, just the water and oil journals..

Looks to me like smkn should be higher then me given them mods and I was hoping to break 500 :doh:
 
Well for a comparison, I dyno'd 477hp with my plate and afc slid all the way back, and the turbos did not light until just shy of 2000rpm.
This may or may not help. Was the dyno putting enough load on the motor? That was my problem, trying to get the turbos to light.
Tim.
 
Smkn97's said:
I had my truck at the dyno and it only made 352 at the wheels the dyno isnt setup to read tq. but I was very disapointed with only 352hp. I was expecting at least 500hp.
Heres my mods:

HTT PRO street 66/13 stainless
Oring studded head ported bowls with 60# springs
215 pump, laser cuts, 4k springs, o plate,
rack plug, gutted afc, set at 500cc(can go up to 650cc if I slide plate)
.093 Injection lines, 370s
snow water injection (spraying just water)
Timing set at 18.5*

Am i doing something wrong when I dyno? I ran it up to 55, locked the converter, then punched it out to 120.
Click to expand...

The lines are too big. Use stock or 2mm
You need the stock plug
Timing is good
Use your AFC with the stock spring
Use a plate forward, but make certain the AFC is working
Install boat injectors

Thats good for over 450. 500 with bigger sticks and more tuning. perhaps 19 degrees
 
Smkn97's said:
I had my truck at the dyno and it only made 352 at the wheels the dyno isnt setup to read tq. but I was very disapointed with only 352hp. I was expecting at least 500hp.
Heres my mods:

HTT PRO street 66/13 stainless
Oring studded head ported bowls with 60# springs
215 pump, laser cuts, 4k springs, o plate,
rack plug, gutted afc, set at 500cc(can go up to 650cc if I slide plate)
.093 Injection lines, 370s
snow water injection (spraying just water)
Timing set at 18.5*

Am i doing something wrong when I dyno? I ran it up to 55, locked the converter, then punched it out to 120.
Click to expand...

i think u have too much fuel

and its puttin out the fire..

setup with ur turbo should really light up and have plenty of power.. I feel that u have plenty of fuel, perhaps too much actually. check the fuel pressure with a gauge.... the gutted AFC dont help none either and teh rack travel mod well, i did feel a difference on my 215 pump... so i can argue with teddy bear there... no offense man...

anyways

did u start ur dyno run at 1500 or so RPMS? if so did the truck feel boggy? how much boost did you see? what were ur pyro readings? all of this comes into play..

im at a similar problem with my truck with 370s and 181s... with the twins i made only 450 horses, But u will learn that too much fuel will put out the fire too quickly and then clean up too easily once the chargers light, IE what happened with me with 16.5 degrees of timing on one of my last dyno runs, the chargers were lighting when i was out of RPMS due to too much fuel early on..

Just a consideration.. just get some tuning done or mess with it a bit longer and ull get it better...

Rick
 
See I told you this place was cool Josh!

Some of the things people replied with sound familiar? ;)

Keep us posted on how things work!
 
You forgot to note that you dyno'd in 4th (OD).
I forget what affect that has on dyno numbers though..
 
Can the rack plug detrimentally affect performance if the plate is slid back far enough to prevent rack travel past 16-17mm?
Why not leave it in and keep the plate slid back a bit rather than take the pump off again to put the stock one back in?
 
Bobcat698 said:
Can the rack plug detrimentally affect performance if the plate is slid back far enough to prevent rack travel past 16-17mm?
Why not leave it in and keep the plate slid back a bit rather than take the pump off again to put the stock one back in?
Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking....but?
When my pump was on the bench I asked them to set the pump @ 17mm of max travel and they needed to slide my 0 plate full back to attain this, however I don't know if you could easily measure this with the pump on?
 
The guy that did my pump marked where my plate is set at 500cc but that is 18.5mm of rack travel. So I moved slid the plate back some more it should be around 17mm now.
 
What's this "rack mod" being referred to? Is this the rack plug change? If so, it won't make any difference. The plug doesn't affect rack travel. The stop plate does. Max rack travel is 21 mm on all pumps due the rack stop pin. Once max rack travel is reached, delivery valves are about the only thing that will affect fuel delivery on an otherwise stock pump. As 21 mm of rack travel is approached on the 215 pumps you get into the start-up notch on the plunger head. That will provide more fuel, but usually results in higher EGTs with minimal power improvements.

-Jay
 
JGK said:
What's this "rack mod" being referred to? Is this the rack plug change? If so, it won't make any difference. The plug doesn't affect rack travel. The stop plate does. Max rack travel is 21 mm on all pumps due the rack stop pin. Once max rack travel is reached, delivery valves are about the only thing that will affect fuel delivery on an otherwise stock pump. As 21 mm of rack travel is approached on the 215 pumps you get into the start-up notch on the plunger head. That will provide more fuel, but usually results in higher EGTs with minimal power improvements.

-Jay
Click to expand...


Hi Jay,

If there is no stop/curve plate in the pump, the other plugs can allow the rack to travel past 21mm's. This does no good in making power anyway, just smoke and heat.

Personally I dont like modded DV's or the DV's currently used from other pumps like the 191's, etc.

DV's can add fuel by removing less volume from the line, but they cause many other problems. Good old 181's for me please:woohoo:

Glad to see you doing well in the races:rockwoot:
 
Soup Nazi said:
Hi Jay,

If there is no stop/curve plate in the pump, the other plugs can allow the rack to travel past 21mm's. This does no good in making power anyway, just smoke and heat.
Click to expand...
Hey, Don.

Now before I go on, let me qualify my comment. I am certainly no pump guru. I haven't taken any apart. My info comes from some long conversations with 2 Bosch certified techs with more than 40 years experience between them that both said the stop pin limits rack travel to 21 mm - no ifs, ands, or buts. This conversation occurred while they were rebuilding mine after a governor calamity. They had the dial gauge in the end and showed me full rack travel possible, from 0 to 21 mm. No plate in the pump at the time. They said that's all there is and there ain't no more.

So I have to ask, where's my disconnect here? Is there a part of the story that I'm missing? I'd really like to get this resolved so I don't make a fool of myself.

Thanks,
-Jay
 
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