Need help/advice- new build-no start issue

Sabastian458

Sabastian458

New member
Quick run down, rebuilt my spare truck’s 12 valve. Stock build but added the beginner mods. 1996 12 Valve 215 p-pump manual trans

Stock pistons, stock cam,16 degree ppump timing, 60 valve springs, 4K gsk’s, lift pump spring upgrade, -8 fuel lines with sump, dual feed, 24v oil pump, 13in ceramic clutch.

Once together I bled fuel, got fuel leaking from each injector, tightened down and attempted starting. No go. Won’t even fire off and try to start. Pretty sure starter is on its way out after trying for so long. Works currently but will stick in “starting” position at times, after repeated start attempts.

So I checked injection timing, thinking it may have slipped. Nope, still where I set it. Checked cam timing, “0” and “00” are where they are suppose to be. I had pulled ppump to reset to pin time (couldn’t see timing flange in pump. Putting back together at stock timing now)

I’m out of ideas. Other than maybe the crankshaft might be out 180 from the cam. Is that possible? I had cyl 1 at tdc when I put the bottom together and assumed that putting the cam mark with the crank mark would be good enough. But is it possible that it could be off and cause the no start?


Cliffs.
Rebuilt short block
New fuel system
No start
Ppump timing good
Cam/crank mark good
Fuel shut off valve is up when starting
 
Does it huff white smoke when trying to crank. I was helping a buddy get his started after a pump swap. He had it so out of time it wouldn't even hit on ether. How are you setting injection timing?
 
Sabastian458 said:
Quick run down, rebuilt my spare truck’s 12 valve. Stock build but added the beginner mods. 1996 12 Valve 215 p-pump manual trans

Stock pistons, stock cam,16 degree ppump timing, 60 valve springs, 4K gsk’s, lift pump spring upgrade, -8 fuel lines with sump, dual feed, 24v oil pump, 13in ceramic clutch.

Once together I bled fuel, got fuel leaking from each injector, tightened down and attempted starting. No go. Won’t even fire off and try to start. Pretty sure starter is on its way out after trying for so long. Works currently but will stick in “starting” position at times, after repeated start attempts.

So I checked injection timing, thinking it may have slipped. Nope, still where I set it. Checked cam timing, “0” and “00” are where they are suppose to be. I had pulled ppump to reset to pin time (couldn’t see timing flange in pump. Putting back together at stock timing now)

I’m out of ideas. Other than maybe the crankshaft might be out 180 from the cam. Is that possible? I had cyl 1 at tdc when I put the bottom together and assumed that putting the cam mark with the crank mark would be good enough. But is it possible that it could be off and cause the no start?


Cliffs.
Rebuilt short block
New fuel system
No start
Ppump timing good
Cam/crank mark good
Fuel shut off valve is up when starting
Click to expand...
Don't go by the 0 and 00. Put the cover on the front and the balancer, then find tdc on the engine. The drop valve method works the best. Tdc the engine, pin the pump. Done. Also leave one injector cracked and the rest tight to purge the very last of the air. It will run on 5 then tighten the last one.
 
No white smoke. I put 1 on tdc before head went on, then matched the cam/crank gear marks up. The p-pump I pin timed before installing on the truck. Once on, I used the dial indicator in the cyl 1 bore to advance the timing. Like how “god prefers diesels” videos on YouTube.

Bleeding the fuel wasn’t/isn’t the issue. I gravity bled until I had fuel coming out of the -8 lines, then hand primed the lift pump until fuel came out of the return OFV on the pump, then had all 6 lines on the injectors cracked until fuel had a good leak out of them then tightened.
 
Mark Nixon said:
You know the starter has issues, your next step should be plain to see.

Mark.
Click to expand...

But the starter still spins the engine over. I can address the starter sticking, should be a set of new contacts. But that would/shouldn’t keep the truck from starting, at least hitting off a few times or something.


And I physically made sure the fuel shut off was in the pulled position.

If I’m missing something obviouse please enlighten me, I’ll gladly check it out. I’ve gotten frustrated with this to the point I’m siure I’m over looking something because I’m frustrated.
 
It may still spin it over, but you've mentioned it sticking, which means it's been hot, which likely caused more internal damage.
So, now it doesn't spin the engine over fast enough to make enough pressure for the pump to pop the injectors.

Mark.
 
Interesting, I didn’t think of that. I will swap starters off my main truck to see if it will start with that. (New NAPA replacement) I will update once I accomplish that.
 
I'm not sure how much I believe it wouldn't try to start if everything is right. I had a weak battery engine turning slow, ALL 6 injector lines cracked while bleeding the system and it still started. Shot fuel out of the lines and sprayed diesel everywhere. Definitely not intentional and to be honest it scared the crap out of me, lol.
 
How much throttle are you giving it while you crank? My hunch is on the GSK install. If the idle screw is too far out, or the springs weren't set right, no fuel.
 
Bumping this back up as i am having the same issue, curious if OP cured the prob. Got pump back from Seth, set motor at TDC, installed everything just how it came off, bled system have fuel at all 6 injectors. wont even try to turn over
 
stroked diesel said:
Bumping this back up as i am having the same issue, curious if OP cured the prob. Got pump back from Seth, set motor at TDC, installed everything just how it came off, bled system have fuel at all 6 injectors. wont even try to turn over
Click to expand...

Not sure if you know but top dead center happens twice per cycle, compression stroke (the one you want) and exhaust stroke. did you make sure both #1 valves were loose on tdc? the pump can go in 180* out and not run.... sorry if you already knew this....
 
How clean did you get the tapered shaft and gear? Electrical cleaner works the best, no residue, lightly blow compressed air on it and torqued to 175 ft lbs?
 
I got it started, thanks 95cummins, I cleaned it good with everything you mentioned and torqued it down. I had made a foolish rookie mistake and motor was not at true TDC but instead I installed it 180* off.
Again thanks for the info, once i pulled the pin cover off again to find the pump pin I went up and felt the #1 valves, they were not loose. Immediately knew what i did wrong.
Thats what I get for being in a hurry.
 
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