DDually
Still spooling..
So exactly what I said? By good I mean correct for your set up.
Help with fuel setup for new engine
- Thread starter Exodus
- Start date
So exactly what I said? By good I mean correct for your set up.
jlbayes
New member
That is still a perception imo and builders like to play all sorts of games with the nozzles. But otherwise yes.
Stox5225
New member
Good 5x.014's and a hell of a lot of tuning. For 400hp, those are way more than what you need. And if you DON'T tune it well enough, you're wasting fuel.
AFC Live, 4K GSK, 5x.012's, 055 DV's, and call it a day. And you'll probably push more than 400.
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AFC Live, 4K GSK, 5x.012's, 055 DV's, and call it a day. And you'll probably push more than 400.
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BRE
New member
I like this setup. I ran this setup minus the afc live for years and loved it.
No ppump truck should ever be without a gsk. EVER! lol
I would personally never put anything less than a 5x.014 in a truck for any kind of use. I'm not saying a 5x.014 can't or won't haze... But I don't feel that it should. A good quality injector built by a reputable builder, built for what you're doing, will go a long ways.
My personal opinion would be 5x.014, 3 or 4k gov spring, 131 delivery valves. I ran this for several years on a stock turbo 5 speed truck with no plate and a severely piss poor tuned afc, and it did great. Great fuel mileage, never got hot unless you wanted it to.
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Tate
What?
Just to echo most thoughts here. 215 pump, stock 181's, 3k or 4k (I prefer the 4k), 5x12 or 5x14 (I run the latter), and any run of the mill upgraded turbo will do it for you. Once warm, my truck doesn't haze at idle.
On an HX35 with no real tuning done and 3k GSK, my truck was 330hp and 1050.
On a 62/71/.80, it was 440/1150, nothing else changed.
On an HX35 with no real tuning done and 3k GSK, my truck was 330hp and 1050.
On a 62/71/.80, it was 440/1150, nothing else changed.
tornado112
New member
If your engine is getting rebuilt and you want more power why not install a cam?
with the extra air it will be clean power with the mods the others suggested
RacinDuallie
Black Sheep Racing
A performance cam? For 400 hp??? I mean it's not a terrible idea for down the road, but the stocker will be perfectly fine for "just" a 400hp setup.
kawi600
got Coal for Christmas
I would also stick with the stock cam until you need to upgrade. Going aftermarket means more overlap, less velocity at low rpm = less swirl which will make you smoke more for city driving and and tow.
The SAC nozzles will make a little smoke for the extra power. a VCO injector is cheaper and will run a little cleaner.
Ive run 7x.009 SAC injector nozzles before and they ran cleaner but they didnt make power up top probably due to penetration at high boost. I still have em if anyone wants to try a set, but honestly I wouldnt mess with them.
The SAC nozzles will make a little smoke for the extra power. a VCO injector is cheaper and will run a little cleaner.
Ive run 7x.009 SAC injector nozzles before and they ran cleaner but they didnt make power up top probably due to penetration at high boost. I still have em if anyone wants to try a set, but honestly I wouldnt mess with them.
Destroked 450
New member
I built my engine primarily for towing, 215 pump, 181 dv's, 3k gsk, AFC Live, afc mods, PDD 5x12's, 57mm Super B Single.
Would have reused the stock cam if it had been good but it wasn't, so a Colt Big Stick was installed.
Haven't had it on a dyno but it has a lot more power than the old 160 with a 10 plate, 3k gsk, 5x10's and the same Super B.
Would have reused the stock cam if it had been good but it wasn't, so a Colt Big Stick was installed.
Haven't had it on a dyno but it has a lot more power than the old 160 with a 10 plate, 3k gsk, 5x10's and the same Super B.
kawi600
got Coal for Christmas
in some situations, its important -where- you make the power. a cam is going to move power around in the rev range.
for a city DD and tow, once you put the cam in you lose that low rpm torque and it tends to smoke more on take-off.
The smaller turbo helps, but its also going to limit the top end which is where most cams are designed to make power.
A cam would probably work well with higher compression pistons but not many people go in that direction so example builds and results are hard to find.
for a city DD and tow, once you put the cam in you lose that low rpm torque and it tends to smoke more on take-off.
The smaller turbo helps, but its also going to limit the top end which is where most cams are designed to make power.
A cam would probably work well with higher compression pistons but not many people go in that direction so example builds and results are hard to find.
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It's included. So 16* would give me benefits?
Should see slight egt reduction and slight mpg increase. Depending on your driving style. When my 96 was stock going from the 13 to 16 gained about 1.5 mpg for me. I didn't have a pyrometer at the time but as you advance your timing you use more heat in cylinder so it normally creates both of the conditions listed earlier. I tried 18 degrees stock but was not happy with turbo spool. I now run around 20 degrees with my current setup.
96 3500 5x018 7mm dvs 62fmw
96 3500 5x018 7mm dvs 62fmw