Fitting a Mack rack plug

The best way to install the rack plug is with the pump removed. Grinding the case is the short cut. Is the truck in your sig the victim? If so. Check the numbers on your pump before you do it.
 
I need a little input here guys.....I have the timing cover off & have been sizing up what i need to do to fit the Mack plug, I have the pump gear off also as I have been doing the timing, trying to get to the bolts that hold the pump to the timing case I think I should get the help of a Gynocologist..... my point is if I do get these bolts loose can I pry the pump-case apart enough to fit the plug without removing it completly? & is it worth the effort to fit the plug? TIA
 
they arent bolts holding the pump in its studs with nuts and no you cant just pry on the case to get it in there. get you a long extension and a ratchet or get a cheap wrench and modify it and take the 4 nuts loose and put the plug in. otherwise your gonna have to grind on the case.
 
Like they said a swivel socket is your friend to get those 15mm head bolts (4) holding the pump to the studs on the timing case. To put the nuts back on (if you remove them) that are hard to get put the nut in the 15mm socket and wrap it with one revolution of electric tape around the socket and nut and lap the tape over the nut a bit. It will keep the nut in the socket and let you start it on the stud and still allow you to pull the socket off releasing the nut when it's threaded.
 
When I added a 2095 rack plug to the Junker Drag Truck, I was too lazy to go through the hassle of pulling the pump gear, removing the injection lines, loosening the pump mounting studs/bolts ect. I just ground and drilled a little on the aluminum housing and 20 minutes later it was installed.
 

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shortbusdriver said:
I will never pull the pump to put the plug in, I will always grind the case, fark all that work.
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This is my feelings on the suject as well. Just make sure to clean up before you remove the stock rack plug to keep any chit from getting in the pump.
 
I've already got the gear off so I might aswell do it right...if I can get the dang nut loose!
 
displacedtexan said:
There is still the bracket, and lines...
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Oh, 2 minutes...

Sheesh, you guys sound like you can't pull a pump in 20 minutes. For me, it's 20 minutes off, 25 minutes back on. Whole job done in less than an hour with a break:D:D

I'll be install a 2095 plug in my old 95 sometime, when I get time...but I also will be putting new washers under my injectors at the same time, so I can do it all at once!
Chris
 
Signature600 said:
Oh, 2 minutes...

Sheesh, you guys sound like you can't pull a pump in 20 minutes. For me, it's 20 minutes off, 25 minutes back on. Whole job done in less than an hour with a break:D:D

I'll be install a 2095 plug in my old 95 sometime, when I get time...but I also will be putting new washers under my injectors at the same time, so I can do it all at once!
Chris
Click to expand...
I thought fat guys were lazyLOL

I'd pick the grinder/easy to reach standing option:D
 
You calling me fat??




















You're right if you are:hehe:
I might grind it, might not...either way, I won't be out much time!
Chris
 
i liked the grinding method. it was easy. when i pull the motor to swap it ill clean it up to look more factory and paint it, you'll never know.

Garrett
 
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