He351ve brake setup

M

metchosin joe

New member
So I’ve read just about every thread on this swap. Since photobucket destroyed most decent threads I’m hoping some of those that have done the He351ve setup could post how they got the exhaust brake to work.
I’ll be doing a double acting cylinder with boost and drive pressure to control the veins. That part looks pretty straight forward but getting the exhaust brake mode to work looks more complicated.
I have an air tank so I could do a compressed air or is there a simpler setup?
I’ve read some guys just run with the veins closed all the time and just the drive pressure open them..
CompD Mobile Device
 
Not meaning to thread jack, but you can download an extension for Firefox and Chrome that will bypass the photo block.
I'm reading the Firefox extention is not always working, but the Chrome one works....for now.
Look up "Firefox or Chrome embed fix."
Good luck
 
Don’t use the boost/drive method. It will lead to unpredictable and inconsistent actuation as well as issues with turbo bark. Just run drive pressure and a spring.
 
Thanks
So a single acting cylinder on only drive pressure is gonna act more predictable.
What about utilizing the exhaust brake mode?
Are you regulating the drive pressure?

I like all the after market electronic setups but im a cheap ass and want to build a mechanical setup
 
No I am not regulating drive pressure, I wanted it to have full force to overcome any stickiness in the travel. I adjusted spring stiffness and then spring preload to get it to perform how I wanted.

I am not worried about the exhaust brake too much so I don't have it set up. You could use an electric solenoid to move the spring stop to allow a fully closed condition... On my setup I adjusted the set collar to where it wouldn't allow it to close any further than I wanted. If you could actuate the stop and move it out of the way, then the spring preload would be able to push it the rest of the way closed.
 
Your setup is very nice
My theory was to have the boost on return but have compressed air in line and use it to over come the boost to return the cylinder and close the vains.

But if the boost and drive together is too problematic I think I’ll go back to the drawing board
 
You need an electronic solution. Nobody tends to stick with their mechanical actuated vgt holsets because they can never truly get them to function how they want. Spend the money and get a controller and you will love it.
 
zfaylor said:
You need an electronic solution. Nobody tends to stick with their mechanical actuated vgt holsets because they can never truly get them to function how they want. Spend the money and get a controller and you will love it.
Click to expand...

x2 we rigged a VGT off a 6.0L onto a 12V at one point and made it work with an Arduino.
I used the base code from a VW forum where some guy had done most the work.
Had to pull inputs off RPM, throttle position, and drive pressure, then there was a sort of 'open loop' matrix, and a closed loop section that had smoothing and +/- (piggyback style) for variables.

It worked surprisingly well, but could have used a lot more refinement/time. Time's just hard to come by!
 
If the fleece setup wasn't so pricey I'd go that route.
the arduino setup also looks good and not that far out of my abilities but the mechanical setups just seem so much more simple to get going.

Seems like everyone was on board with these turbos from 2009-2013 then there was a lot less talk

Some one out there must have made a reliable way to get the brake to work mechanically
 
I wouldnt even waste your time with a mechanical setup, using an arduino is actually really cheap and easy. In fact, there is a thread buried somewhere on here that has almost all of the code already written, as well as a comprehensive parts list. Do some digging.
 
The arduino stuff looks like the best option now. Has any one tried the lbb stuff vol.1?
Buy that and the arduino then wire it sounds pretty straight forward
 
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