filled block characteristicts driving?

M249cummins

New member
I plan to put a create type of block filler in my 12v 5.9 and was wondering it's driving operations? I plan to fully fill the block water jackets with Hard Blok but how will/does it operate with no water? I may run water in the head but unsure at the moment but I am wondering how long can it run? I hear people running days/DDing their vehicle with filled blocks. others say if the oil stays cool you are fine, others say more than 3 miles the cylinders will warp????

Can some of this be clarified by people with first hand experience please. How do you drive yours?


Do not reply if you know how your friends drives or someone you know or you heard of please...
 
I think the people saying they can get away with DDing it are doing a half fill. I don't know anyone with a fully filled block that expects it to spend any time on the road.
 
Warpage is an absolute certainty. How much is the question.

There was an excellent video from ford of the heat produced in a dry cylinder block. I can't find it now.

The top end of the cylinder should have coolant circulation for DD IMO


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Guys need to lay off the UCC kool-aide...

You don't NEED a 1500hp+ "street" truck. I definitely don't even WANT one.

Get behind the wheel of an 800-1000hp truck on asphalt and let it scare the bahjeezus out of you.

Even with a mild 13mm and biggish compounds, you're not going to making enough power to split the block, and you'd BARELY be streetable, To the point that it would be obnoxious/stressful to drive for more than 30 minutes at a time.

I'd focus more on making power you can actually use...


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Its not going on the street. its a trailered truck that will be in the open/rwyb class at local pulls. solid suspension, gutted interior, horrible gear ratios. I have no desire to drive it on the street. I will be around 1,000hp and plan to run a massive single and spin a lot of rpms. it was my understanding filling the block keeps distortion and flex down.


I'm just curious if you are in the pits, staging, unloading ect...how much driving can it handle?
 
Seems like most folks with filled blocks have water injection or a water to air IC. that helps to keep the oil temps down.
 
Its not going on the street. its a trailered truck that will be in the open/rwyb class at local pulls. solid suspension, gutted interior, horrible gear ratios. I have no desire to drive it on the street. I will be around 1,000hp and plan to run a massive single and spin a lot of rpms. it was my understanding filling the block keeps distortion and flex down.





I'm just curious if you are in the pits, staging, unloading ect...how much driving can it handle?



How big of a single?


We tow ours around 95% of the pulls we go to unless we get there early enough to scale and drive to the staging lane. Like you said above, oil cooling is the most important part.


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I'd like to think anybody with a partially- or fully-filled block has also plumbed some sort of oil cooler to control temps. However, the need for a cooler might depend on the duration of runtime and of downtime between passes/runs. I have no firsthand experience or knowledge.
 
I run a half filled block (up to the freeze plugs) but it is a duramax. No problem driving it around the pits and hot lapping it. No oil cooler, I monitor oil temps and never have seen an issue. Again, this is a duramax so might not be comparable. I'm running an air to air intercooler.

I don't have experience with a totally filled block.
 
Shortbusdriver says he took his filled block on a 2 hour road trip and it was just fine. Cooled head if I remember right.
 
Seems like most folks with filled blocks have water injection or a water to air IC. that helps to keep the oil temps down.

I have 2 type 17 air water intercoolers and plan to run a oil cooler of some sort. It will be a full block fill.

Even considered running water through the head.
 
Shortbusdriver says he took his filled block on a 2 hour road trip and it was just fine. Cooled head if I remember right.





Just because it did not swell a piston to the point of lockup, I have to say that damage was done on the road trip.
 
Three seasons on a filled block. Would highly recommend it. I'll never go back.

Reason one: It eliminates your cooling system and all related possible issues (leaks, water pump failures, air pockets, boiling over)

Reason two: It doesn't get nearly as hot as people think. I can drive all around the pits without the oil temp guage rising. I use a nice Derale oil cooler with a petersen relief valve. The temp guage will rise to aprox. 180-200 after a pull depending on the length of the pull, how long they make me sit hooked to the sled, track prep, how many times I started it in the pit, etc.

Reason three: Its stronger (theoretically) Not that I'm remotely close to that HP level with the blocks start to split, but its piece of mind.

Reason four: It opens up the front of the engine bay for a larger intercooler with better mounting

Reason five: It gives you a good reason to b!tch at the officials and make them tow you around the pits.
 
Three seasons on a filled block. Would highly recommend it. I'll never go back.

Reason one: It eliminates your cooling system and all related possible issues (leaks, water pump failures, air pockets, boiling over)

Reason two: It doesn't get nearly as hot as people think. I can drive all around the pits without the oil temp guage rising. I use a nice Derale oil cooler with a petersen relief valve. The temp guage will rise to aprox. 180-200 after a pull depending on the length of the pull, how long they make me sit hooked to the sled, track prep, how many times I started it in the pit, etc.

Reason three: Its stronger (theoretically) Not that I'm remotely close to that HP level with the blocks start to split, but its piece of mind.

Reason four: It opens up the front of the engine bay for a larger intercooler with better mounting

Reason five: It gives you a good reason to b!tch at the officials and make them tow you around the pits.

Three reasons eh? :)
 
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