house trailer frame?

K

K204DR

I'm the Driver
anyone ever used house trailer frame to build a trailer? I can get two frames that are 10" I beam. wondering how strong they are. my dad has a 20ft trailer made from 8" house trailer beam and it works pretty good, but it flexes alot. wonder how much better the 10" would be, or compared to channel iron. I know channel is usually thicker. bring on the engineers!
 
Are you talking about a trailer to be used on the road or just around the house/yard/farm? What kind of axles do you plan on using? Do they have brakes? What kind of brakes? What is the gvw your shooting for (what is the gvw of the axles)? Flat deck/beaver tail? Honestly, I think most people once they look at all of the costs/hassles with building one from scratch, usually decide to buy a used trailer. Not sure in Tennessee but in PA it can be a pain to get a homemade trailer titled. You can buy a brand new 10k equipment trailer for $3k or less!
 
I know people who have used them. They are too awkward for my liking. Usually they have no brakes, dayton wheels, old crappy bias ply tires, and plywood for a deck.
 
No house trailer axles being used! I have two 8lug axles with brakes sitting here, and I can get the house trailer frames for free basically. just have to move them about 2 miles. they are both stripped down. looking at building a 20-26ft trailer for occasional use, whenever my 18ft car trailer isn't big enough.
probably 14K range. I know I will have to gusset them more than they are originally. just don't know the strength of the 10" I beam compared to 8 or 10" channel iron.
I would love a nice 28-32ft gooseneck, but can't afford one of those any time soon.
We don't have to tag or title our trailers here, as long as its personal use.
 
On the beam it is stamped with the weight of the beam which will translate to how much it can haul. The biggest reason for twist and flex is there not being a torque tube on the trailers. I bought a 35+5 that has no torque tube that moves more than I like and it has the same beam strength as my 27+5 that has a torque tube.
 
Every trailer built on a house frame that I've seen turns out to be a flexxy heap of junk. What's the wall thickness? Ear width? A standard 14k trailer will use 6 or 8" channel with 2" ears and 1/4" wall thickness.
 
If you have enough frame, double it up and use some of the rest of it for stringers.
When making the stringer, just notch the ends to match the inside of the 'I' on each rail and weld it all in.
It'll really stiffen it all up.

Mark
 
Back in the late 80's before I was even a cum bubble my dad had built a 53' mini storage shed hauler out of a house trailer frame. BUT I think he may have special ordered the I-beam thickness. I know the whole thing tilted with hydraulic cylinders over the fifth wheel and had a log roller chain in the center to move the sheds.
 
I used 14" house trailer frame for a 25ft tag worked great for building the beaver tail. I'd recommend using using some of the I-beam for the crossmembers otherwise it's quite flexy. other than that works great and I hauled small tractors on mine.
 
My ex-father-in-law built one from a 28ft, 5th wheel camper. While it was a lot more work than buying one it was a heck of a lot cheaper. I know you are talking trailer house but this one turned out great. Didn't have flex issues and it already had 7k pound axles under it to start with. Ive never personally built one from a trailer house frame but ive owned a couple used ones that others built and as stated they were pretty flexy. I sure a guy could brace them up to fix some of that.
 
I have a 40 ' sea container on a house trailer frame. It has dual axles . I didn't build it. Wish the axles were further forward, as tongue weight is alot. I Added a jack and heavy coupler . I was able to tow it with my fummins excursion. 12v g56,4:10's.
2726ebfc85dd362a8cbe0caa494c4d31.jpg
81f8bc1b747700af2bec43b6dc9ac6e7.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top