Swap fuel plates to help lean out bottom end response?

Off idle location is what you need to change ie; pre-boost fuel setting. Do you know how much pressure the spring takes to open? It sounds like you may have a governor spring out of a 160/175hp P7100, quite easy to tell the difference by the coil shape at the end.

Spr6.jpg
 
Last edited:
I get my springs from Ace hardware and cut them down. Century spring is the brand.
 
Weston, it is definitely not the factory 160 horse gov spring; I have those in a bag from my 4k spring swap and had it out comparing last night before I benched/installed it. It is about the same lenght as the 160/175 spring (85psi as noted in the above pic for those not familiar), but the coil layout is more like the 180 horse spring (60psi shown above)... Both ends are closed and ground too, so im guessing there was a very specific application for it... When I get a chance I'll pull it back out and take a comparison pic



ALSO, since we're here- as viewed from driver front fender- is there any better fastener to use on the top left of the afc housing than a button head cap screw? I'm currently running 3 different fasteners (dont laugh) on the 4 main afc attaching points and would like to narrow it down to one... but that one is in a ****ty spot underneath the injector lines and my current best tool is one of the small double-headed gearwrench ratchets with a 4mm allen bit; anything taller gets caught underneath the air horn too...damnit.
 
I keep meaning to find studs for it but I'm forgetful.


Epically posted via Tapatalk...
 
Hurley said:
ALSO, since we're here- as viewed from driver front fender- is there any better fastener to use on the top left of the afc housing than a button head cap screw? I'm currently running 3 different fasteners (dont laugh) on the 4 main afc attaching points and would like to narrow it down to one... but that one is in a ****ty spot underneath the injector lines and my current best tool is one of the small double-headed gearwrench ratchets with a 4mm allen bit; anything taller gets caught underneath the air horn too...damnit.
Click to expand...

Don't feel bad, the top right is stripped on my pump so I too only have three holding which means I have to use the top left. Mine is very easy to get to with a 1/4" drive swivel socket and i'm using an 8mm headed bolt that came from my assorted hardware collected from about 10 years of wrenching on random chit.
 
I took that bolt out on mine for that same reason. I don't have any oil leaking from the housing so I dout you need it there at all.
 
Hurley said:
Weston, it is definitely not the factory 160 horse gov spring; I have those in a bag from my 4k spring swap and had it out comparing last night before I benched/installed it. It is about the same lenght as the 160/175 spring (85psi as noted in the above pic for those not familiar), but the coil layout is more like the 180 horse spring (60psi shown above)... Both ends are closed and ground too, so im guessing there was a very specific application for it... When I get a chance I'll pull it back out and take a comparison pic



ALSO, since we're here- as viewed from driver front fender- is there any better fastener to use on the top left of the afc housing than a button head cap screw? I'm currently running 3 different fasteners (dont laugh) on the 4 main afc attaching points and would like to narrow it down to one... but that one is in a ****ty spot underneath the injector lines and my current best tool is one of the small double-headed gearwrench ratchets with a 4mm allen bit; anything taller gets caught underneath the air horn too...damnit.
Click to expand...
I don't use anything there. I use socket head cap screws for the other 3. I wish I remembered ththreads m6x1.0 maybe.
 
Just incase anyone watching is wondering, it's also smart to swap out the flat headed bolts too to just normal hex headed bolts. It'll save you a lot of time converting the fuel plates two to normal bolts and also the afc itself. I think they're all 10's. If you screw the flat headed ones on too tight they can be a real PITA to get out so swap 'em out when you get the chance.
 
I swapped some hex cap screws (10mm head) for the diaphragm & pre-boost covers last night, need to convert the rest. Also need to get another housing seal/gasket while im at it.

I bet studs would be a ***** for installation....although one with a minimal height on that top corner would be saweet.
 
I used Allen headed bolts on my AFC. I have a Blue Point 5mm ball ended "T" handle that I bought just for this. Works good!
 
To the best of my knowledge even mild plates don't contact the governor arm til half travel or so. Sounds to me like you should be chasing springs and preload ajdustments.
 
kalder said:
I used Allen headed bolts on my AFC. I have a Blue Point 5mm ball ended "T" handle that I bought just for this. Works good!
Click to expand...

x2. I have a set of metric and standard ball end allen wrenches. It just barely gets in there, but it does.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top