Cam removal/install

Never use a used lifter on another cam! Also make sure lifters go back on the same lobe when reassembling.
Personally if the cams ok I'd get a complete set of new lifters, their not that expensive, with the one lifter pitting like it has how close are the others to starting to pit.
 
Sounds good I'll have real good look at the other lifters. If I can, I'll buy a few new ones to replace as necessary. If I do go the new route, should I put in 24v VP tappets? Heard they have a bigger face. Will they interfere with lift pump lobe?

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I would install a complete set of 24v lifters. The common rail lifters are bigger yet but they can hit the fuel pump lobe on a 12v cam.

96 3500 5x018 7mm dvs 62fmw
 
some machine shops can reface your lifters but it may not be worth it as new ones can be had for a good price. I agree with destroked 450 I was taught the same thing but I have seen guys get away with used lifters I would never take the chance myself though.
 
The lobe on the enterprise cam looks like that because its a regrind that added lift, you will see that on almost all regrinds. If u run that cam be sure to degree it and check PTV most regrinds require an offset key or even retarding a tooth or more to get it where it wants to be.
 
Ok thanks I will. I took a pic before I took it out and seemed to be lined up standard

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Did you notice if it had an offset key in it, enterprise sells a 5 degree one, if much duration was added to the intake side it can cause intake valve clearance problems and have the intake open a bit sooner than you want it to. Did you get any specs for it yet? Most regrinds I've installed have degreed in at 90 or less i tend to retard them to 100 to 105 depending on the durations and LSA. It will depend on the cam profile and LSA just some thing that I feel is often over looked.
 
I didn't notice. Pretty easy to tell compared to the stock cam when next to each other?

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Anyone ever had their stock tappets machined to have the face not flat, but domed? The cam shop will do them for $5 each which would be less than ISB tappets...

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If this were me, I'd just buy a new set of tappets because I'd feel more comfortable knowing they're new. The tappets are supposed to have a slightly crowned surface which is what allows them to rotate.
 
Tappet's are only hardened so deep, if they grind through the hard face putting the crown back into them they're junk and will wipe out a cam lobe in no time.
To me it's just not worth the risk. I wiped out a lobe on a high performance street engine years ago, destroyed the cam, lifters, oil pump, crankshaft and scored one cylinder bad enough it needed a sleeve to save the block.
Get a set of 24v tappets, common rail tappets will hit the fuel pump lobe on a 12v cam.
 
As far as I understand stock cummins cams and tappets are flat and lifter rotation is caused by the offset of the tappet on the lobe. The cam must match the crown of the lifter so be careful when mix matching parts. I would listen to what they have to say at Oregon cam thats what they do.
 
Sounds good guys and great advice. I ordered a set of ISB tappets from enterprise and also picked up my cam today. Attached is a print out of the profile. As a reminder this is a Enterprise Engine cam from about 12 years ago.

If I read it right, it's about a 177.4/204?

Can I run this cam with stock hg?

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Forgot to mention, head had 0.015" removed and valve seats were recut so shallowest face depth is 0.041"

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If I read it right and compare it to Colt cams web page, it seems mild as far as duration, but it has a lot of lift. 0.297 intake and 0.324 exhaust is similar to their stage 4-5?

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I like that cam its very aggressive to have that much lift on that short a duration so your doing the right thing running bigger tappets. The lsa is a 106 thats a bit tight so valve clearance may be tight. I would check it for sure its hard to say if its going to work or not with out checking. If u adjust your valves to zero lash and then open them another .020 - .040" turn the motor over if it spins you should be ok. I personally like to check every cam i install with a degree wheel and pay close attention to valve timing events but the above method should work to be sure u have some clearance you want at very least .030-.040" ptv with lash.
 
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