4wd drag race setup

I've got a set of 3rd gens in the shop I've really been thinking putting a set of radials on just to see what they'd do. If not I'll by 16x10-12's later and do it. I know it's not really necessary at my level but every bit helps
 
with our old street truck we have cut 1.65 with 100% stock suspension eclb 2nd gen on wore out cupped 33'' mickey Thompson mtz mud tires. Not aired down either. Friend of mine had a 100% plumb wore out stock suspension leaf spring 1st gen that cuts consistent 1.63-1.65 on aired down nitto 420s on a 20'' rim to boot... cuts consistent 1.65-1.67 with the tires aired up. (track depending as well) You can easily achieve your goal with 100% stock suspension.
 
If you wanna run 11s just add more
Power!!! Hahah ok but really you shouldn't have to do much to do . I run my 06 all stock with the exception of bilstein shocks on 35 nitto ats 17 rim and run 11.5-11.7
15psi launch and it hooks and books 1.6 on the 60ft I aird down and even pulled out all the seats once didn't seem to make any difference. I just pull up and run it
If I was you I'd buy caltrac make some runs and make some adjustments to the cal tracs if needed
 
Well depending on how this winter goes im going to be building a custom set of ladder bars. Possibly slicks and i need to get my converter restalled and it should do well for itself

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I'm really liking my caltracs so far. I'd recommend them to anybody just haven't had time to get mine dialed in yet. They're cake work to install
 
guy above me ^^don't get tied up on boost numbers when it comes to staging, my truck with tnt tunes I had to leave at 18-20ish to cut a 1.6 my buddy in the other lane with literally the exact same setup, I mean exact. with hp tuning was leaving at 12 pounds. just because luke can leave at 20+ doesn't mean your truck needs to. single turbo power delivery is different than compound. if the truck is leaving under the turbo and then catching up then that's a issue you need to address as well, play around with your edge, box tuners sometimes the biggest tune doesn't always perform the best. sounds like the caltracs are not setup correctly to allow weight transfer, try running them looser to where the truck can squat. mine had a bad issue spinning with the trac bars pulled forward compared to pushed backwards. with the bars pushing the rear end backwards it will plant the ass end. just something to think about.
 
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Yeah I'm just running around 1/2 turn or so on the driver side and close 1 full turn on the passenger side. A lot of people I know that drag race told me that was a good place to start. I haven't really had a chance to play with them much yet. And I'm not hung up on boost numbers really. That's just what I go by when I'm at the line. I leave my edge on 5x2 or 5x3 at the track so it doesn't overfuel so bad down low. I don't expect a 1.6x or anything out of my truck. But I feel like I should at least cut a 1.8x easy if it'll hook. But I had a change of plans and I'm probably goin to sell it soon so I don't even really care at this point haha
 
Anyone know what the spring force is on the OEM 1/2 ton coils? I have seen other people using em for drag, no idea how well its worked out for them.
 
Hdhorton said:
If you haven't got blocks yet the factory ones from a f250 are 2" and fit perfect, that's what I'm running. With aired down 420's, no overloads, and caltracs I still can't leave on more than 15psi on the track or it'll spin. I'm cuttin around 1.90-1.95 60' times leaving that easy. I'm in need of new shocks though so I think that's a lot of my problem
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And you can just make your own. That's what I did and it took about 30min worth of measuring, band saw, drill, weld, paint. $.02
 
Hey guys trying to get some more info here. So would going to a spring under benefit me at all? I dont want to go to a coil over setup but im wanting to get the absolute best suspension for launches i can. Running a vp still so trying to maximize everything i can to make up for lack of power and rpm. Ill attend to those later :)

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Don't quote me on this but I think for every 100lbs you lose from the race vehicle you gain .01 in quicker et's in the 1/4.

A hot wrench, borrowed plasma, saws all, and I've even seen chain saws used to cut weight. If scrap would ever come back, you could donate it to the buddy you borrowed the plasma from.

lol
 
That rule of thumb is for gassers' I dropped two tenths in the eight by adding 300lbs. Now it was a 2wd and most of the gain was in the first 300ft due to traction but the truck also made more boost early on.
 
Sometimes weight works out for the best. However, you can't fight physics. Had you been able to hook the truck without the 300 additional pounds, you would have went .03 faster.

Try all you want. You will not beat physics.
 
Bodacious said:
Don't quote me on this but I think for every 100lbs you lose from the race vehicle you gain .01 in quicker et's in the 1/4.
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I'm pretty sure it's every 100lbs. equates to a tenth off (.1)
If it was every 100lbs. equates to a hundredth (.01) like you're saying then adding 1,000lbs. of weight would only add a tenth (.1) of a second to your time which is way off.
 
I call it the east coast rake. The cali folks like 'em the other way so that is the west coast rake. lol
 
I dont want it too terribly low. I will be cutting 1 coil out of my front here soon so it will be down and as much as i hate it i am ok with a little cali lean simly for the weight transfer it gives

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