hrvp finally dead pedaled

jlbayes said:
No as in the edge that isn't doing squat on 1x1.
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Edge on anything higher than 1x anything is nothing but a smoke show until turbo lights, around 1800 rpms. Then the smoke starts to clear and hazes until 2200 rpms. Only way for no smoke is to run it with box off.
 
dieselbeef said:
idk...ecm is poss I guess but the codes never came back. it seemed fine til I drove it to town..50 mi or so I was wondering if I was gonna make it. pulling the valve cover next...alt is getting it done...13.8 - 14.2 volts..i thought of that also
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Bucking and missing? Did you crush the key on the pump shaft? Might not be perfectly aligned and crushed it in the process of tightening. Did you use the correct key?
 
I used it as it came. it was very tight so I didn't mess with it. I could see it going in from the back while my son eld the light in from the front. im confident it isn't the key.

the bucking/missing/stalling like it suddenly dies and then comes back is mostly between 1400 and 1700 rpm...It hasn't really done it any where else so bad that I couldn't notice it

it starts and idles great. doesn't smoke. doesn't make any power either. wont make 30 lbs of boost....
 
jesnic7 said:
Edge on anything higher than 1x anything is nothing but a smoke show until turbo lights, around 1800 rpms. Then the smoke starts to clear and hazes until 2200 rpms. Only way for no smoke is to run it with box off.
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And that is the reason 10 hole injectors aren't used as was implied above.
 
jlbayes said:
And that is the reason 10 hole injectors aren't used as was implied above.
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Which is why I am thinking of adding a turbo to my existing. More air should help with the added fuel of the drag box and help clean it a little sooner?
 
jlbayes said:
And that is the reason 10 hole injectors aren't used as was implied above.
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As Brady(God rest his soul) explained it me when I purchased them, they are 6 larger holes and 4 smaller holes to help with atomization in the cylinder. They actually ran great with the hot rod pump and cleaned up fairly quickly. I think with more air, it should clean up sooner in the rpm range and give more power at same given rpm.
 
dieselbeef said:
I used it as it came. it was very tight so I didn't mess with it. I could see it going in from the back while my son eld the light in from the front. im confident it isn't the key.

the bucking/missing/stalling like it suddenly dies and then comes back is mostly between 1400 and 1700 rpm...It hasn't really done it any where else so bad that I couldn't notice it

it starts and idles great. doesn't smoke. doesn't make any power either. wont make 30 lbs of boost....
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Did you tap the pump or at least the stealth cover? Maybe apps is bad or ecm. Usually a bad ecm sets all kinds of funky codes. Bad apps is usually a worn spot on the potentiometer. Do you get the v band tight (boost leak)? fuel filter?
 
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Wouldn't explain the codes, but how's the throttle cable? Mine acted really weird when the cable was frayed and sticking in the sheath, all but completely broke actually.

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im going into the apps in the morning before I get into the valve cover. I have a spare so after I do the reset if it doesn't work im going to try that and see what happens. I forgot to check the voltage at the batterys while my son had it reving at 1600 where the biggest issue is but idk if ill be able to tell or not since it took 50 mi for it to show back up.

no pump tap..for sure no boost leaks or fuel issues. 20 psi is plenty..either the apps is gone..the ecm or some kind of inj problem but I don't think so since it is so rpm specific...

why the f did it give me the 215 216 codes tho...if its the apps
 
Maybe the vp44 wire connection isn't all the way plugged in or connection sucks. I've never seen a PO215 code. 216= misaligned key on shaft, low fuel pressure to pump or bad pump. All of my bad pumps have also had a 1688 code (bad PSG). I am sure you cleared all codes prior to priming and starting after pump change.
 
BRE said:
Gayest answer posted in at least 4 month.
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I'd be tempted to try a common rail swap/conversion, aside from cost/time, it'd do everything better than a p-pump.

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Ha! Never understood the love for those quirky sob's. I guess they'd be alright as long as you carry a spare pump and a couple lift pumps with you when you travel out of town.
 
well the apps checked out ok...soooooo under the valve cover next...how much oil will really piss everywhere ifI run it without a valve cover for 5 minutes
 
well idk..did the apps test and did a quick drive but cant tell..still hear the noise under the valve cover so that's tonight probly. this really sucks the big one. I got customers waiting on me and cant get schidt done. besides im sick of workin on it already.

gonna try to call the shop today and see if they will return the pump I bought but I doubt it. its already been run so....I got 1500 in the new one if I keep it and don't send back the core...
then I got the hrvp from ii I don't want to return for a core since it was such a kickass pump and I don't think its bad.
id like to return the one I just got and put the old one back on because im thinkin this new pump is gonna be a turd either way
odds r slim that's gonna work out huh?
 
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