2008 68RFE VB options

zstroken

zstroken

For $$$ your name here
My neighbor just had his 68RFE give him fits(throwing error codes everytime it tried to shift to 4th) after he dropped the pan, the plate on the side of the VB was distorted. So it got me thinking. My truck has 86K on it, I have already put a convertor in it, a deep pan, and an older H&S OD tune. I am thinking of what I can do to prolong it.

I was thinking of just putting a VB in it, as I believe mine has the non anodized bores and doing the metal screw on filter upgrade. The truck has no apparent issues with the transmission at this point. Just doing some preventive work.

Looking for feedback on this, whose VB should I run?
 
Obviously keeping up on filters and fluid helps. And you already have the deep pan.

I really like this BD gasket plate, which let me set my line pressure to 200psi without any issues. I'd recommend tossing in a solenoid pack at the same time if you're dropping the VB.

BD Gasket Plate ($155):
1030373 - BD Protect68 Gasket Plate Kit Dodge 6.7L 2007.5-2018 68RFE Transmission

New Solenoid Pack ($272):
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I also run PDD's Power Torque ATF:
Power Torque Automatic Transmission Fluid | Power Driven Diesel

That should put you in really good shape. I'm at ~170k on a stock 68rfe that's had H&S OD and it works great. I love it.
 
CorneliusRox said:
Obviously keeping up on filters and fluid helps. And you already have the deep pan.

I really like this BD gasket plate, which let me set my line pressure to 200psi without any issues. I'd recommend tossing in a solenoid pack at the same time if you're dropping the VB.

BD Gasket Plate ($155):
1030373 - BD Protect68 Gasket Plate Kit Dodge 6.7L 2007.5-2018 68RFE Transmission

New Solenoid Pack ($272):
Server Error

I also run PDD's Power Torque ATF:
Power Torque Automatic Transmission Fluid | Power Driven Diesel

That should put you in really good shape. I'm at ~170k on a stock 68rfe that's had H&S OD and it works great. I love it.
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Are you able to get the 200+ psi from your OD software? I believe mine is only commanding 160psi. I was thinking of just getting a modified VB, as I have the non anodized bores in mine.
 
That's a good point. There was a revamp of the 68rfe in 2010 and I was told by BD, I could safely do 200psi. I'm not sure about the 07.5-09's.
If you want to adjust the line pressure on your OD software, you need to reinstall it and right after the screen where you put in our OD code, you can set line pressure. I believe 170psi is the lowest.

For reference, they changed the fluid circuit slightly in 2013 and there's basically a thermostat in the system to let the fluid get hot quicker, to a point. This allows for the most minuscule mileage increase, but also makes the entire trans run hotter when increasing line pressure since it's essentially increasing your fluid in temp and creating a smaller fluid circuit.

As for the metal screw filter 'upgrade'. I don't recommend it. The reason it's a plastic fitting there is because of galvanic corrosion. Most filters are uncoated mile steel, and placing that against aluminum will corrode over time. By putting a plastic fitting in between, you fix that problem. Another solution would be a zinc coated fitting since zinc plays well with steel and aluminum.
 
I can tell you, that's definitely the reason behind it. I can't speak to how long it'll take to 'stick' together, or anything. Why not just leave the plastic one in there? It seems to work well.
 
So my valve body is the original one that came with my comp68 back in 2010. It is the non anodized one aswell and have ran it at 225 psi for quite some time. BUT!!! I'm pretty sure as I stated in a different thread it now has a cross leak. The major things needed for the valve body are the accumulator plate, billet valve body plate, and pressure relief valve.

I personally use the billet screw adapter as the plastic works it's way loose with the expansion and contraction of the case, and even ATSP recommends it. The plastic unscrewed 2x on me prior to billet going In.
 
It's also important to mention, I'm seeing real time line pressures of around 235-240psi at full tilt.

That's when 225 is commandedin OD.
 
CorneliusRox said:
I can tell you, that's definitely the reason behind it. I can't speak to how long it'll take to 'stick' together, or anything. Why not just leave the plastic one in there? It seems to work well.
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How do the steel screws not get stuck in the valve body?
 
CorneliusRox said:
They're all zinc coated. That's pretty standard on all steel fasteners since zinc is such a non-corrosive material.
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The billet accumulator plate from Suncoast hasn't corroded..... and that's with nearly 10 years of staying in fluid.

Edit: I just saw the new spin on is steel.....

When I bought it they were billet machined, looks like they redesign them.
 
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Talk to Dusty at HTS, he offers a couple different 6.7 VBs. I spent a lot of time on the phone with him during the short time I owned my 6.7 and he was a lot of help.
 
So old OD software, VB with separator plate(for increased pressure) what line pressure will my transmission run at?

I am thinking I would like to get to about 200 psi on the transmission, that seems like relatively safe number. So if my VB is modified for increased line pressure, does the old OD software command over the 160/170 psi?
 
zstroken said:
If my VB is modified for increased line pressure, does the old OD software command over the 160/170 psi?
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Nope. You can dump pressure with the solenoids and they will try and match what's requested. You'll need to find a way to request more. If you're happy with your shift patterns and tuning in general, and don't want to switch, you could always get that intermediate BD controller. It references boost pressure and proportionally increases line pressure (or at least, that's how it reads). :Cheer:
 
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