Any Hamilton 12v high swirl head reviews?

jedeka

New member
Looking to replace a 12v cylinder head. I was curious how this head is working and holding up. Thanks.
 
Really, no one has anything to say about the only aftermarket head . I have one waiting to go but that's not going to help the OP..Seriously no one has anything to say yet ???
 
I tried his original head with some extra machining to help with swirl but it wasnt enough. The intake area was wider so the speeds werent as high so there was less swirl for low end efficiency. I have no idea what kind of setup the new head has on it.
As far as quality I was real happy with it. No complaints at all.
 
We've tested a few now, they run as good or better on the lowend than a stock head from what we can tell and they definitely flow more than stock!

If I were in the situation of needing a new head to replace a cracked 12v head, I'd seriously consider the new Hamilton high swirl head.
 
We've tested a few now, they run as good or better on the lowend than a stock head from what we can tell and they definitely flow more than stock!

If I were in the situation of needing a new head to replace a cracked 12v head, I'd seriously consider the new Hamilton high swirl head.

This is what I wanted to hear!:rockwoot:
 
We've tested a few now, they run as good or better on the lowend than a stock head from what we can tell and they definitely flow more than stock!

If I were in the situation of needing a new head to replace a cracked 12v head, I'd seriously consider the new Hamilton high swirl head.

This right here. ^^^

I have one that will be put to service pretty soon. Well worth the money IMO.
 
We've tested a few now, they run as good or better on the lowend than a stock head from what we can tell and they definitely flow more than stock!

If I were in the situation of needing a new head to replace a cracked 12v head, I'd seriously consider the new Hamilton high swirl head.

good info, i'd like to see before and after results. if i had the funds i'd dyno with current stock ported head, and then one of these, same valve size/cut angle and springs. post results and specs. but nobody does such a thing anymore and if they do its hush hush. as for the industry has leaned more towards the better line of bs, then obtained facts.
 
I heard yesterday that they are only lasting a couple years, because they are cracking. The material used to cast them is the same as stock. Is this true?
 
The new high swirl heads have only been available for a yearish so I don't think there is enough time on them to know if they are better or worse than a factory head. I know my older Hamilton head still looks like new with no cracks, but it's only had a couple hundred dyno pulls and about 50 quarter mile passes, so I can't relate that to daily street use mileage. But so far, so good.
 
I ran one of the older heads for a few years, When I pulled it off it did have the typical cracks like across the valve seats and what not. I just figured it was from years of abuse and egts in the 2000-2500 range.:doh: :hehe:
 
I have a new Hamilton street head with the big valves going on a CR block in the next couple of weeks. We're just waiting to hear from D&J to pick up the short block. The truck has a 64/80 compound set up. I will post some et timeslips when we get it to the track.
 
I have a new Hamilton street head with the big valves going on a CR block in the next couple of weeks. We're just waiting to hear from D&J to pick up the short block. The truck has a 64/80 compound set up. I will post some et timeslips when we get it to the track.

Did you run that same setup before the head change? Or starting from scratch on it.
 
My question would be, is this the new competition head for people not going to be purchasing a war head. Just say someone that already has good valves,studs and push rods. Maybe someone that even had the old style comp head. Just needing a new one for some reason. I've had the old style going one 3 years now. Very pleased with It. But for some reason say I had a bad engine failure that damaged the head beyond repair. Am I going to need to go on to the war head or will this one still support most of everyone's needs for a aftermarket head.
 
Did you run that same setup before the head change? Or starting from scratch on it.

I'm starting from scratch as the last ime I dyno'ed was 489 horse with a single 64 charger and a 5 speed. I had head gasket problem right off(w/ 425's) with the 64/80 compounds and wanted to put in good rod bolts and get the block decked true for fire rings.
The local machine shop was behind so ordering parts from D&J and discussing the power level from the new street head it was recommmended I use a CR block. So I'm selling my 12v block and head and going with their short block. Of course this calls for bigger injectors and a 13mm pump, dang it all!
I will report how it spools on the street and the times and weight and others can decide if it does better than a fully built 12v head. With a thicker deck, bigger valves, better valve seats and larger 1 and 6 intake ports I couldnt beat the price so I rolled the dice.
 
My question would be, is this the new competition head for people not going to be purchasing a war head. Just say someone that already has good valves,studs and push rods. Maybe someone that even had the old style comp head. Just needing a new one for some reason. I've had the old style going one 3 years now. Very pleased with It. But for some reason say I had a bad engine failure that damaged the head beyond repair. Am I going to need to go on to the war head or will this one still support most of everyone's needs for a aftermarket head.

This is Hamilton's 3rd head and its factory styled with swirl ports plus other big improvements, I'm hoping.
 
This is Hamilton's 3rd head and its factory styled with swirl ports plus other big improvements, I'm hoping.

I understand that. But from my understanding the original competition head is no longer made. So that leaves you with the street head and the war head. My question was is the street head going to replace the old style competition head in say the 3.0 smooth bore class for guys needing to replace their head or is the war head the only head that will be used in competition from now on.
 
I understand that. But from my understanding the original competition head is no longer made. So that leaves you with the street head and the war head. My question was is the street head going to replace the old style competition head in say the 3.0 smooth bore class for guys needing to replace their head or is the war head the only head that will be used in competition from now on.



I have a hard time seeing them change the entire casting. I would think you could put the same port job on that head and rock on
 
I have a hard time seeing them change the entire casting. I would think you could put the same port job on that head and rock on

I'm going to call in the morning and see. I'm in the market for another now. The war head would be nice. But right now not exactly in the budget to buy everything needed to make it run. But from what hearing the street head has a oem style runner in it. Like they did change the entire casting. Not a bad thing for some people just not exactly sure what I need to do now lol
 
I'm going to call in the morning and see. I'm in the market for another now. The war head would be nice. But right now not exactly in the budget to buy everything needed to make it run. But from what hearing the street head has a oem style runner in it. Like they did change the entire casting. Not a bad thing for some people just not exactly sure what I need to do now lol



I thought the original head also had the oem style runner??
 
From what I understand, the original head fell between stock and a competition head. Zach went back to the drawing board and came up with the war head for competition. He took the original head design and made it high swirl for a more streetable head, but there is enough material to port it out to make it a competition heads for the rules that require a stock type head.
 
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