stock head bolts?

N

NGA Ram

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I am putting my new vp44, ddp3 injectors, and clutch in this weekend. I was debating on retorqueing my head bolts b/c I am already seeing 32lbs of boost and don't want to blow it. I am not ready to buy studs yet.
 
its only a matter of time before the bolts let loose and blow your HG. It'd be a really good idea to stud the head before doing much more. Your head bolts shouldn't need retorqueing unless they are after market.
 
Where you at NGA? Have you twisted the stockers before? Contrary to popular belief, stock headbolts can be torqued as tight or tighter than studs. It has to be done correctly, or you will risk busting one. The stock setup is usually okay to around 40 lbs, but much more than that and you are definitely taking a chance at the stock tq specs. BTW, when the headgasket goes, it is not from the bolts letting loose...... it is because they are not tight enough, or you are running enough boost that you need to O-ring the head, in which case bolts will clamp the head fine as well.




My stockers are tighter than most LOL
 

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You are not going to blow head bolts at 32 psi....IMHO. I'm sure Garmon will re-torque them for you with his majic mojo vodoo witch doctor process for a small fee! :hehe:
 
I know I will not blow it at 32lbs but that is 32lbs with a week pump and no injectors. Now that I have injectors and a good pump I am expecting more
 
I have seen folks with a 62/14 and mach 6's be okay with the wastegate set at 45 lbs or so.
 
Roger that. I run a 62/14 gated and my max boost at WOT is normally 43-44 psi. Granted I don't pull sleds and run 1/4 miles, I do haul heavy trailers at GCVW's of #20K+ and have had no problems in 2 years with my mods. Long hills on the interstate usually run 25-28 psi under heavy load and moderate pedal for extended amounts of time. I'd wait 'til it lets loose then strip it and go full out with rings and studs at that time. Put $50 a month in your sock drawer then when it happens you'll have the money to do it all and possibly some left over. $.02
 
maybe I should have re-phrased myself, I know my'n did not last very long when I was running low 40's psi. Whether the bolts could have been tighter than the studs or not, it didn’t work well in my application. I’m not sure if there is a different torque sequence you have to use when tightening bolts vs. studs, it just seems like a gamble.
 
Everyone should have studs. It's not a queastion of which is better.
I personally just run retorqued bolts to 130 and I run 45-50psi boost. But I know I am flirting with danger so I let the truck FULLY warm up before seeing more than 15psi.
I just figure that when the HG does let go I can just take the head off and have it milled and O-ringed, maybe even do some porting on it, then put in the studs on the re-install.

J.D.
 
I don't much like the idea of putting that much strain on the threads in my block. I'll bet that studs are cheaper than pulling the head to repair the damaged threads. I guess it just goes against, the methods that I know.
 
Timbeaux38 said:
Where you at NGA? Have you twisted the stockers before? Contrary to popular belief, stock headbolts can be torqued as tight or tighter than studs. It has to be done correctly, or you will risk busting one. The stock setup is usually okay to around 40 lbs, but much more than that and you are definitely taking a chance at the stock tq specs. BTW, when the headgasket goes, it is not from the bolts letting loose...... it is because they are not tight enough, or you are running enough boost that you need to O-ring the head, in which case bolts will clamp the head fine as well.




My stockers are tighter than most LOL
Click to expand...
Do you back off & then retorque or just retorque? I see Keating still uses stock bolts at probably 150psi with fire rings i'm sure.My truck does 42psi easy with the stock injectors.So it has been a concern before sticks.
 
Yeh, but if you are going to be at a level were you need O-rings eventually, anyways, the head will have to come off.
Studs are worthless without O-rings at a point, and I don't think that point is very far from were bolts are.
 
I've got about 80k on a set of nice new bolts torqued down with Jeff's specs on lube and stages of torque. The truck has seen who knows how many of those miles uphill with a rather large camper behind it at a large percentage of throttle and the 32psi boost gauge pegged.

Not a problem so far.

Now here is the kicker, you have to let the thermostat cycle at least once before full boost is applied. You have to take your time doing the retorque and do it right. What it boils down to is following factory specs until you get to the "Twist 90 degrees" Once you get to that point start going in 5lb increments until you reach 125ftlbs. Then go over the bolts again and again, and again until the bolt doesn't move, the wrench just clicks. Oh, and use plenty of moly based lube on the threads and under the bolt head.
 
my truck lasted about 2mo. with stock HG ARP studs and 55psi with twins... after that I did o-rings

a friend of mine is running 50-52psi with a 66mm charger with stock HG and ARP studs for almost a year now... that truck makes 582HP and runs 12.7's

Lavon
 
we have run down the track at 60 - 70 psi and had no problems. just retighten after 2 or three runs. There was a friend of nime that was running p-pump 24v s400 charger 4500 to 5500 rpm with just stock head gasket and bolts.
 
this makes me feel a little better i was thinking i should get new studs for mine but my truck had a new HG at 50k miles and it has a 102k now and only seen a max of 31psi or so
 
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