2011 Cruise Control

[RockinRam96]

Hey guys!

Just bought this 2011. Truck is immaculate! It was owned by an older gentleman and his wife who wanted to do the camper thing. But they didn’t travel to much, it only had 39,824 miles when I picked it up!!

I absolutely love the truck. The only issue I have with it is the cruise control. Going down a hill it will let itself gain around 5 mph, then down shift to try to slow it self down. The. Going up hill it will allow itself to drop 5 mph then again downshift to speed up, speed up well over the set speed and then coast to achieve the set speed.

This drives me nutshell highway speeds it is screaming when it downshifts. My 03 stays at the set speed no matter what. Have had the same trailer loaded with horses and it will maintain 65 mph going up or down any of the hills around.

Is there a way to fix this? Thinking about deleting the EGR and DPF, will a tune help the cruise?

Thanks!





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[RD TRCTR]

I don't believe cruise control is editable in EFILive (or EZLynk).

You may want to start by seeing what calibration is on the truck and seeing if a new calibration exists.

FWIW, controlling CC within 5 mph up or down a grade may have met program requirements when the truck was developed... I worked on a program five years ago where the targets were plus and minus 8 mph...

[biggy238]

Originally Posted by RD TRCTR

I don't believe cruise control is editable in EFILive (or EZLynk).

You may want to start by seeing what calibration is on the truck and seeing if a new calibration exists.

FWIW, controlling CC within 5 mph up or down a grade may have met program requirements when the truck was developed... I worked on a program five years ago where the targets were plus and minus 8 mph...

I've always wondered what the instantaneous (radians?) variance was on a loaded power train when the vehicle hits something like an expansion joint or pothole. Hysteresis is a very real part of tuning that never seems to get much discussion

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[RockinRam96]

Originally Posted by RD TRCTR

I don't believe cruise control is editable in EFILive (or EZLynk).

You may want to start by seeing what calibration is on the truck and seeing if a new calibration exists.

FWIW, controlling CC within 5 mph up or down a grade may have met program requirements when the truck was developed... I worked on a program five years ago where the targets were plus and minus 8 mph...

It just drives me nuts all the shifting it does. And quite honestly makes me a little car sick. Ha ha

Guess I’ll just have to drive with my foot.


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[Empty_Pockets]

Welcome to the 68rfe lol

[CorneliusRox]

Originally Posted by Empty_Pockets

Welcome to the 68rfe lol

I don't know about that. My '10 w/ 68RFE definitely doesn't do that.

I wonder if OP has the original CAL and mine has been updated at some point during one of it's recalls.
It's also not a bad idea to get all the modules flashed once in a while since they seem to develop issues all on their own over time. Just make sure you take your tuner off first or it can write over it and the turner will be 'locked'.

[Empty_Pockets]

Originally Posted by RockinRam96

It just drives me nuts all the shifting it does.
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I meant to quote that the first time. Every 68rfe ive ever drove or ridden in seems likes its stuck in a loop of never ending shifting lol.

[RD TRCTR]

Originally Posted by biggy238

I've always wondered what the instantaneous (radians?) variance was on a loaded power train when the vehicle hits something like an expansion joint or pothole. Hysteresis is a very real part of tuning that never seems to get much discussion

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, getting calibrators and supervisors to understand hysteresis and how to actually calibrate the P and I gains of a PID controller is frustrating. Most people just turn knobs to solve the situation they have and hope performance for a different scenario doesn't grenade. Many calibrations are a house built of crackers...

Originally Posted by CorneliusRox

I don't know about that. My '10 w/ 68RFE definitely doesn't do that.

I wonder if OP has the original CAL and mine has been updated at some point during one of it's recalls.
It's also not a bad idea to get all the modules flashed once in a while since they seem to develop issues all on their own over time. Just make sure you take your tuner off first or it can write over it and the turner will be 'locked'.

68 performance is very calibration dependent. I've ridden in 68's that wouldn't downshift if their life depended on it. I have ridden in others that downshifted when the driver sneezed.

Originally Posted by Empty_Pockets

I meant to quote that the first time. Every 68rfe ive ever drove or ridden in seems likes its stuck in a loop of never ending shifting lol.

Empty driving with a 68 is ok. Towing it blows. Towing up grades with switchbacks on a 2 lane with a 55 mph speed limit down right sucks.

I bought my 14 truck for the full size back seat and as an auto for the wife to drive. The full size back seat gets more use than expected. The wife has driven once... I am ready to sell or trade towards a fourth gen manual. When I tow, I tow heavy. And it sucks to always have the life of your trans on your mind when towing.

[CorneliusRox]

Originally Posted by RD TRCTR

It sucks to always have the life of your trans on your mind when towing.

I do agree with this. Granted I'm at ~205,000 miles on this trans, I tow 10,000-17,000 lbs and I'm always thinking in the back of my head how bad it'll suck if I get stranded somewhere because of the trans.
She shifts great, drives well, the fluid looks good, but the mileage makes me think it'll go at some point. I wonder if I'd feel better in an Aisin. I think I'm going to try one on the next truck.

For reference, it's been on H&S Over-Drive TCM tuning @ 170psi line pressure for most of its life and tow on the tow tune like a normal person (not like a hotrod).

[RockinRam96]

Originally Posted by CorneliusRox

I do agree with this. Granted I'm at ~205,000 miles on this trans, I tow 10,000-17,000 lbs and I'm always thinking in the back of my head how bad it'll suck if I get stranded somewhere because of the trans.
She shifts great, drives well, the fluid looks good, but the mileage makes me think it'll go at some point. I wonder if I'd feel better in an Aisin. I think I'm going to try one on the next truck.

For reference, it's been on H&S Over-Drive TCM tuning @ 170psi line pressure for most of its life and tow on the tow tune like a normal person (not like a hotrod).

Did the tune seem to make it any better.

I am comparing this to my my 03 with a tuner and my dads 05 stock. My dads 05 will shift all around my 03 maintains 65 mph up hill and 65 mph downhill anywhere I have taken it here in the northeast. My dads on the other hand will downshift.

Just wondering if a little power added and tuning will improve drive-ability.


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[CorneliusRox]

Originally Posted by RockinRam96

Did the tune seem to make it any better.

I am comparing this to my my 03 with a tuner and my dads 05 stock. My dads 05 will shift all around my 03 maintains 65 mph up hill and 65 mph downhill anywhere I have taken it here in the northeast. My dads on the other hand will downshift.

Just wondering if a little power added and tuning will improve drive-ability.

You're comparing a 47re (2003), 48re (2005) to a 68rfe (2007.5+). The 47/48 are pretty similar, but the 68rfe is a very different animal.

To answer your question, yes it did make a big difference in all things transmission and I'm very happy with it.

I believe you'd be best off looking into some valvebody work to get the 47re or48re shifting how you'd like.

[RockinRam96]

Originally Posted by CorneliusRox

You're comparing a 47re (2003), 48re (2005) to a 68rfe (2007.5+). The 47/48 are pretty similar, but the 68rfe is a very different animal.

To answer your question, yes it did make a big difference in all things transmission and I'm very happy with it.

I believe you'd be best off looking into some valvebody work to get the 47re or48re shifting how you'd like.

Ha ha you must have miss understood. I want my 68rfe to shift like my 48re. Granted my 48re has a Firepunk stage three rebuild and a shift kit.

The only thing I don’t like about the 68rfe is all the shifting around it does. It only bothers me from a longevity and reliability standpoint. I’m not heavy 9,000 lbs max, and it can’t maintain 65 mph on the highway without shifting?! This thing is supposed to have plenty more power and torque than my 5.9 and my 5.9 can maintain 65 mph without shifting on any hill I have come across pulling the same trailer and same load.


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[CorneliusRox]

Originally Posted by RockinRam96

Ha ha you must have miss understood. I want my 68rfe to shift like my 48re. Granted my 48re has a Firepunk stage three rebuild and a shift kit.

The only thing I don’t like about the 68rfe is all the shifting around it does. It only bothers me from a longevity and reliability standpoint. I’m not heavy 9,000 lbs max, and it can’t maintain 65 mph on the highway without shifting?! This thing is supposed to have plenty more power and torque than my 5.9 and my 5.9 can maintain 65 mph without shifting on any hill I have come across pulling the same trailer and same load.

Ahhh ha ha yeah, I didn't understand what you meant.
I often tow 10,000 lbs and hit cruise control at 78mph. It takes a pretty steep hill for the trans to downshift. It's rare enough that it usually scares me when I'm relaxed and all of a sudden it slams down to 4th gear and get loud.
I'd recommend getting some sort of trans tuning. I think it's a little bit better for daily driving, but it's a lot better for towing.

And just to clarify, I've never been in a 68rfe that shifts like my built 47re. Every gear change has a little bit of flare and slipping into the next gear. I'm sure it's there for comfort and to save driveline components. I do like that fact that it's softer than the instant slam you get with a 47re, especially when I've got my wife and kids with.

[Empty_Pockets]

Originally Posted by RD TRCTR

Towing up grades with switchbacks on a 2 lane with a 55 mph speed limit down right sucks. .

You just described the road to my house n shop. Maybe thats why i don't like them. 7 to 9% grade and twisty most of the way lol.

Imo GOOD tuning is a massive improvement on a stock or built 68. Everyone i know other than 2 guys have just had terrible luck with them. If i ever end up with one it will stay delete stock power only and when it dies send it to randys

[RockinRam96]

Originally Posted by Empty_Pockets

Imo GOOD tuning is a massive improvement on a stock or built 68. Everyone i know other than 2 guys have just had terrible luck with them. If i ever end up with one it will stay delete stock power only and when it dies send it to randys

That’s exactly my thought. I have plenty of power for what I am doing. So a full delete and a stock tune to look over the delete is what I am looking for.

Who can I get a tune for my trans from? Not really interested in something like an Anteater where I have to tune it. I will just get to frustrated. Any insight?


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[Empty_Pockets]

Ive been happy with the trucks ive tuned with hpp/ctt. I wasnt impressed with korys or anarchy tunes for them. Ive heard alot of good about optimal weldings tunes but ive never road in a truck hes tuned so i dont have first hand experience with them.

[RockinRam96]

I would love a tune and delete. But the biggest trouble I face is I need to retain the exhaust and all the parts. I am hauling racehorses with the truck and can’t afford to stopped and red tagged.

Wild really just like a boost in mileage, even 1 or 2 mpg, and a trans tune. I don’t need more power. Has plenty for what I’m doing.


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[RD TRCTR]

Originally Posted by RockinRam96

I would love a tune and delete. But the biggest trouble I face is I need to retain the exhaust and all the parts. I am hauling racehorses with the truck and can’t afford to stopped and red tagged.

Wild really just like a boost in mileage, even 1 or 2 mpg, and a trans tune. I don’t need more power. Has plenty for what I’m doing.


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The FE increase is easy. The stock pedal and torque to fuel tables suck. Apply a few simple updates to those, a few cal changes to the trans portion of the tune and you will have a whole new truck.

[CorneliusRox]

There's more than a few 'emissions intact' tunes. Even an old H&S MiniMaxx defaults to emissions equipment.

[Ram12vcummins]

I’ve read calibrated has pretty good emission intact tuning.

I’ve got optimals tuning waiting for me at home when I get back. The 16’ is going on a diet. I haven’t had any issue with the 68 besides you can tell it won’t let you put the power down. The truck seems to have more power with 20k behind it.