Looking for recommendations on what to do with hurt cylinder

thatguy69

thatguy69

New member
Ppump 24v with 260k on it, suspected something was up as I started losing a Quart of oil in 400 miles when towing 6,000 ibs. At idle the truck shows very little blowby and passes the oil cap test no problem. Compression test on a cold motor at 60 degrees f shows 425,425,410,408,325,425. Did a leak down test on #5 after finding this and have no leaks out of the intake or exhaust. Stuck the borescope in the cylinder and found the scoring on the walls at 4 o clock as pictured. Trying to weigh my options here as I'm not really trying to wrap much money up in this thing as I plan on swapping in a common rail motor within the next couple of years. Do you guys think it's worth re ringing and honing, or should I just send it and keep an eye on the oil until I get a common rail put together? Trucks main use is to haul a jeep on 8-12 hours trips and I don't wanna entertain the thought of getting stranded.
 

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It's not like you run this everyday. If you have plans in the future to go a different direction, just let the Ford tell you when it's time. Start getting things gathered up now, and it'll end up looking like you planned it all along. As far as the truck not letting you down along the road ? Well, it's a truck so... :)
 
For me, I would have to take it apart and "fix" it. It would eat on me every time I had to add oil or know I was 8 to 12 hours from home.

I would tell myself to just fix that one hole, but knowing me it would end up with new bearingsas wells new rings and a hone job in all holes depending on what was found in the bad hole.

If the scratches can be cleaned up by a light hone job I would hone and re-ring it. Being stranded is no fun. Plus it always adds way more expense to a trip. If you do work yourself it would be cheaper than a break down 12 hours from home. Towing bills are not cheap.
 
Cowboys4Christ said:
For me, I would have to take it apart and "fix" it. It would eat on me every time I had to add oil or know I was 8 to 12 hours from home.

I would tell myself to just fix that one hole, but knowing me it would end up with new bearingsas wells new rings and a hone job in all holes depending on what was found in the bad hole.

If the scratches can be cleaned up by a light hone job I would hone and re-ring it. Being stranded is no fun. Plus it always adds way more expense to a trip. If you do work yourself it would be cheaper than a break down 12 hours from home. Towing bills are not cheap.
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This is my plan of attack. It's something that's gonna lie on my subconscious until I know it's right, and even once I swap in a common rail this motor will get used for something else. I'm going to tear it down this weekend and see just how bad it actually is. If I took Snedges recommendation he wouldn't get to peddle me any parts so I'm really just trying to help him out.
 
thatguy69 said:
This is my plan of attack. It's something that's gonna lie on my subconscious until I know it's right, and even once I swap in a common rail this motor will get used for something else. I'm going to tear it down this weekend and see just how bad it actually is. If I took Snedges recommendation he wouldn't get to peddle me any parts so I'm really just trying to help him out.
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Sounds like a plan. Plus, you got keep Jeff busy. The more work Jeff has the less crazy post we will see on here. :pop:
 
I'd pull the head, if all the rest look good other than that 1 cyl, I'd just drop that one piston and rod, ball hone the cylinder good, and rering and reinstall.
 
Cowboys4Christ said:
Just messing with you. It's hard to portray sarcasm on the internet.
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BigPapa said:
If that's where you're losing all the oil, that oil ring has to be mostly gone.
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I think it's a combination of this along with my keating tappet cover breather isn't setup 100 percent right. I'll post detailed pics once I get this thing apart and see what you guys think.
 
So what was the leak down percentage compared to the other cylinders? I find it odd that it'd be 100psi low but no difference in leakdown (unless something is short). From here that scratch doesn't look bad.

I'd pull the head, measure your bores and piston protrusion. If it can be honed a couple ten thou and still be in service limits go that route. Tear the engine down to hone it, please. No hillbilly crap, it's extremely hard to get hone oil and stone grit off the crank. If you did that, might as well not even pull the piston, just run it to bdc and hone the top half
 
Snedge said:
Apparently "crazy" is easier to portray. Of course, it does help to actually be crazy.

LOL
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Hahaha!! Yea, there a little crazy in all of us. It just manifests differently for us. There's nothing wrong with good kind of crazy!

BigPapa said:
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Indeed!

4x4dually said:
You mean "keep Jeff's people busy so he can surf the web from the back office with his feet on his desk?

:lolly:
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Hey, I never looked at it that way!! Sounds about right to me!
 
JWhite said:
So what was the leak down percentage compared to the other cylinders? I find it odd that it'd be 100psi low but no difference in leakdown (unless something is short). From here that scratch doesn't look bad.

I'd pull the head, measure your bores and piston protrusion. If it can be honed a couple ten thou and still be in service limits go that route. Tear the engine down to hone it, please. No hillbilly crap, it's extremely hard to get hone oil and stone grit off the crank. If you did that, might as well not even pull the piston, just run it to bdc and hone the top half
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I went back and tested cylinder 1 after testing the rest to make sure my battery wasn't slowing my numbers down and it read 425 as it did before. Then tested 5 again and got the same number also. I did a leak down tonight at 100 psi and got 10%,34%,28%,12%,48%,12%. I'm tearing it all down this weekend, gotta try and line some stuff up as I don't have anything to measure bores or protrusion with as we speak.
 
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