head gasket suggestions?

[Muddin_dude06]

Originally Posted by Ridemywideglide

This is the reason for running 020" washers.. You run 020 gasket, so you go from 040 to 020 washers to keep the injector the same distance from the bowl. 0 gasket + 040 washers = 40thou.. 020 gasket + 020 washers = 40thou... So by using the 020's Ken you kept your injectors at the stock location compared to the piston if you used a 020 gasket. What you did was effectively lose what you gained by running the 020's before the thicker gasket.

Initial point was about shaving the head and that changing compression or clearance. As muddin stated, with a good head guy doing the job, the only change will be injector depth, thus making a gasket selection based on "I shaved the head and now I need a thicker gasket" just plain WRONG.

Running the 020 gasket will lower compression, allowing, as muddin also stated, higher boost/nos with less chance of blowing it.
I have noticed that with the 020 gasket on mine, it is a bit more tempermental on cold starts. There is no more half-crank and fire like before. It's close when it's warmer.

Running 020 washers does just what Tony says (believe Smokem on whatever he says, even if he says the sky is green.. lol), puts the spray deeper into the bowl allowing more timing.

I'm wondering if anyone has ever machined the injector holes say 020 or 040 to get even deeper...?

Everything said above is perfect EXCEPT that if you shave the head .020" and use a .020" thinner washer it puts the injector in the same place. Technically it would be just a hair higher because the injector bore is at an angle. But it wouldn't be enough to matter IMO anyway lol. I just felt like being technical.

And yeah I would not use that Cometic gasket either, there have been a lot of failures. Just get a Cummins marine HG they can usually have them in time. "Ratsun" did a complete engine overhaul which included getting both the head and block true, and ARP studs to run the Cometic and his blew out in a really short time.

[tony597fitter]

Originally Posted by Ridemywideglide

I have noticed that with the 020 gasket on mine, it is a bit more tempermental on cold starts. There is no more half-crank and fire like before. It's close when it's warmer.


I'm wondering if anyone has ever machined the injector holes say 020 or 040 to get even deeper...?

I cant complain with cold starts (since I put the AirDog in) it fires up just like before. 2 cycles of the grid heater and it fires up in seconds.
Only problem I have encountered is that you need to let it idle to build some heat, otherwise it pops and sputters and spits a ton of white smoke.

As far as the injector holes being machined, IT ONLY MAKES SENSE! Either that or how about a .010" washer. Doesnt have to be copper. I'm sure there is somekind of alloy out there that would work.

[Ridemywideglide]

Originally Posted by Muddin_dude06

Everything said above is perfect EXCEPT that if you shave the head .020" and use a .020" thinner washer it puts the injector in the same place. Technically it would be just a hair higher because the injector bore is at an angle. But it wouldn't be enough to matter IMO anyway lol. I just felt like being technical.

Correct.. That's what I was trying to say, if it came out different. But that's what I was after.

Originally Posted by tony597fitter

I cant complain with cold starts (since I put the AirDog in) it fires up just like before. 2 cycles of the grid heater and it fires up in seconds.
Only problem I have encountered is that you need to let it idle to build some heat, otherwise it pops and sputters and spits a ton of white smoke.

As far as the injector holes being machined, IT ONLY MAKES SENSE! Either that or how about a .010" washer. Doesnt have to be copper. I'm sure there is somekind of alloy out there that would work.

Mine started with 1 cycle, and half a revolution, when the #6 cylinder was trashed. After rebuild, 1 cycle or 2, it takes a couple revolutions to start. This is based on winter starting. Summer is quicker, but before it was basically instant. There was no few seconds of cranking. Either way, it still runs great, but I let it warm up 10 minutes or so before driving off, so no sputtering.

I don't know what the washer thickness equates to in timing advance, I'd guess Smokem has that answer, but boring them 060 deeper (or whatever is safe) would give a lot of flexibility it seems to me....
The washers are copper so stacking to get back to stock, for whatever reason, shouldn't be a problem..

[Muddin_dude06]

Smokem told me that machining .020" off of the head would make the spray 1* tighter in comparison to what it was before using the same washer thickness.

[Ridemywideglide]

Originally Posted by Muddin_dude06

Everything said above is perfect EXCEPT that if you shave the head .020" and use a .020" thinner washer it puts the injector in the same place. Technically it would be just a hair higher because the injector bore is at an angle. But it wouldn't be enough to matter IMO anyway lol. I just felt like being technical.

After reading this a couple times I see where I didn't come across right.. And you caught it..

Taking 020 off the head (or block) and using a 020 gasket puts the injector at "stock" intrusion. Thus using 020 washers (after shaving head 020 AND running an 020 gasket) would still gain the same timing advance as putting 020 washers in a stock config.
The homebrew is interfering with the math..

[Ridemywideglide]

Originally Posted by Muddin_dude06

Smokem told me that machining .020" off of the head would make the spray 1* tighter in comparison to what it was before using the same washer thickness.

Okay.. So takeing that and extrapolating it out into my realm of unknowledge...

If you were to maching the injector hole 060 deeper you would gain 3* static timing, agreeable?

How the static equates to pump advance and performance, no clue..
I'm hoping Smokem will pop in and give some input.