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Old 02-17-2017, 09:40 PM   #1
Alexp12valve
 
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Need input on what to run for setups PLEASE GIVE YOUR TWO CENTS

ive been reading numerous fourms about builds and how to get to certain numbers but I feel theres a easier way to do this. Whats the simplest way to build a clean daily/street 650-700hp 12 valve. I have a 160 pump, trucks torn apart going in a 02 frame, need help with what to decide on running. Compounds if need be. I bought a set of 5x16 honed injectors from a guy for cheap and a comp gate. What else should I get without putting all these little parts on that barley make a difference. going to run 4kgs and I have 150lb valve springs and retainers ill throw in with studs for good sake. any input would help. thanks
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95 ECLB 12 valve 4x4 project truck

Frame up resto
Issapro gauge pod
4" exhaust
 
Old 02-17-2017, 10:42 PM   #2
BRE
 
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Holy broad subject Batman.

There is dump number threads on here. Use the search function.
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Old 02-17-2017, 11:02 PM   #3
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a single s480 would probably be your best bet, no fuel plate, play with the fuel screw or whatever y'all 12v guys do and run 'er
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Old 02-18-2017, 12:34 AM   #4
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Holy broad subject Batman.

There is dump number threads on here. Use the search function.
yeah I know haha I'm just trying to get a general idea of the big things. all these fourms ive read into are little things id rather hit the goal with the big parts and slowly get the rest to get it perfect
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95 ECLB 12 valve 4x4 project truck

Frame up resto
Issapro gauge pod
4" exhaust
 
Old 02-18-2017, 05:27 AM   #5
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The devil's in the details. A 700hp truck is not going to be something you can throw a basket of parts at and be done.

My
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Old 02-18-2017, 09:14 AM   #6
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X2
If you want a clean 700hp then I'd say compounds are in your future. I daily mine with a single 75 and a loose converter and it's not bad but compounds would be much more driveable. Your also going to want to send your pump out to have it maxed/balanced. Seth (farrell diesel) is who I usually use but he recently announced that he will no longer be maxing/balancing pumps without fully rebuilding the pump to ensure a quality product... which makes sense, but also will raise the price tag from around $200 to around $1000 most likely. Don't quote me on the pricing but that's what I would expect. You'll probably also want a cam as well.


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Old 02-18-2017, 09:42 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexp12valve View Post
ive been reading numerous fourms about builds and how to get to certain numbers but I feel theres a easier way to do this. Whats the simplest way to build a clean daily/street 650-700hp 12 valve. I have a 160 pump, trucks torn apart going in a 02 frame, need help with what to decide on running. Compounds if need be. I bought a set of 5x16 honed injectors from a guy for cheap and a comp gate. What else should I get without putting all these little parts on that barley make a difference. going to run 4kgs and I have 150lb valve springs and retainers ill throw in with studs for good sake. any input would help. thanks
I have one ready to go. Bring your truck to me and we'll do the swap. lol

Seriously though, that is what we are gonna do. I have 10 in the works right now. Unless you have someone giving you parts, you will not be able to build it cheaper than I will offer it.
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Old 02-18-2017, 09:21 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stubz616 View Post
X2
If you want a clean 700hp then I'd say compounds are in your future. I daily mine with a single 75 and a loose converter and it's not bad but compounds would be much more driveable. Your also going to want to send your pump out to have it maxed/balanced. Seth (farrell diesel) is who I usually use but he recently announced that he will no longer be maxing/balancing pumps without fully rebuilding the pump to ensure a quality product... which makes sense, but also will raise the price tag from around $200 to around $1000 most likely. Don't quote me on the pricing but that's what I would expect. You'll probably also want a cam as well.


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woah woah buddy, did you say DD a 75/83 @ 28*? describe not bad...lol
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Old 02-18-2017, 09:25 PM   #9
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woah woah buddy, did you say DD a 75/83 @ 28*? describe not bad...lol


Not bad- spools at full throttle by 2300
Starts making boost cruising at 1200-1300. Can drive around town without manually shifting smoke free.
You can't mash the throttle like you could with a 60 or 62 but I used to run a 64/74-14 with a very tight converter and the 75 with a loose converter isn't much worse


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Old 02-18-2017, 09:28 PM   #10
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damn, sounds healthy!!
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Old 02-18-2017, 09:53 PM   #11
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I'm sure there wasn't a single thread started anywhere on the interwebs with literally the same exact question you asked. 🙄
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Old 02-18-2017, 10:28 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stubz616 View Post
Not bad- spools at full throttle by 2300
Starts making boost cruising at 1200-1300. Can drive around town without manually shifting smoke free.
You can't mash the throttle like you could with a 60 or 62 but I used to run a 64/74-14 with a very tight converter and the 75 with a loose converter isn't much worse
Any videos? Sounds like a sweet setup
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Old 02-19-2017, 06:32 AM   #13
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My buddies truck is a 160pump (with about 300k on it), a set of 370marine injectors gone over by pdd, honed out and machined to fit lower in the head. 23 degrees timing and o-ringed head, a s364 with the Ss 13cm housing. I'm not going to say its 700hp but is a solid 650. Truck is quick as shet, runs very clean and spools quick. Runs high 11's in the 1/4 and is a fun daily driver.
 
Old 02-19-2017, 06:36 AM   #14
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Just entered in the hp calc and says 622hp, I think 11.88 was his best pass, forgot at what mph.
 
Old 02-19-2017, 07:54 AM   #15
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Was in that range with a 160 pump a while back. To get there... Bench your pump, switch to 024 or similar +90cc DVs. The 5x16s are fine. For turbos I'd go 62/68/.7 over a 75/87-96/1.1 (87 will drive better, 96 for more power). Timing for best drivability would around 18, for max power 26-32. The 160hp pump needs plenty of fuel pressure 40-50 min, 60-70 is better. Other mods should be valve springs(60lbs are fine). No bottom end or head work is needed, except for O-rings and probably studs. With the stock head, boost will probably need to be in the 80-90 range.

To push to the upper 700s. Port the head, bigger DVs, 5x18s, 80mm primary. I think I maxed out with the 160 pump somewhere around 780hp.
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Old 02-20-2017, 03:50 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by jasonc View Post
My buddies truck is a 160pump (with about 300k on it), a set of 370marine injectors gone over by pdd, honed out and machined to fit lower in the head. 23 degrees timing and o-ringed head, a s364 with the Ss 13cm housing. I'm not going to say its 700hp but is a solid 650. Truck is quick as shet, runs very clean and spools quick. Runs high 11's in the 1/4 and is a fun daily driver.

Which turbine wheel ?

Man that's a smaller combo than I have besides the turbo. I hope to hit low 12s / hi 11s. I didn pick up a n20 kit
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Old 02-20-2017, 03:53 PM   #17
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It was a high tech turbo 64/71/ss13cm. I believe it was a trimmed 73wheel is what he said. It spools quick with a stock stall conv, fun truck.
 
Old 02-20-2017, 04:28 PM   #18
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I have a stock stall triple. It is fun, if it's in lock up I lightly touch the brake pedal and it unlocks and spools pretty fast. Pisses off my buddy with his Spartan tuned 6.4
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Old 02-20-2017, 06:19 PM   #19
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Little Red Dyno Pull - YouTube

Going on memory:

63/75 twins, 188 cam, 5X014, benched pump set at 450 cc. Not sure on head porting.

Did 700ish on that dyno pull.

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Old 03-02-2017, 07:38 PM   #20
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Thanks for the input everyone I know I'm being broad I just like other peoples opinions! I'm mostly likely going to just buy a benched pump and go from there. Theyre actually 5x18 injectors so I will most likely look into one of the bd twin kits
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95 ECLB 12 valve 4x4 project truck

Frame up resto
Issapro gauge pod
4" exhaust
 
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