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Old 09-28-2017, 08:03 PM   #1
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Oil Pan Question and Wtf moment

So, I installed my oil pan (2003) onto my 6.7 block.

I was under the engine looking up, and was torquing the bolts to 16ftlb.
I get up and see two things:

The bolts are stupid long. Both ESN's I use are calling for 25mm bolts.

The pan gasket split in 4 places along the driver side.

We took a hammer and knocked the holes in the pan back out before it went to powder coat. They were dimpled to the block side.
To make things even better, I put loctite on the bolts, and aircraft sealer on the gasket.
It's going to be a mess when I pull it apart.

So, what gasket number do I need to put on this thing? This one was the pink paper with printed blue seal. 493- part number I think. The structure kit came with a white gasket also. Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.

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Old 09-28-2017, 08:14 PM   #2
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Get a pan for a 6.7. They have built in support rails all the way around which makes the bolts the correct length
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Old 09-28-2017, 08:27 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigstacks95 View Post
Get a pan for a 6.7. They have built in support rails all the way around which makes the bolts the correct length
Bingo
As far as gasket I've not made up my mind on what is best. The one I used came in a few pieces that locked together like a puzzle. Believe that was a mahle gasket. Not sure if that is the latest and greatest design or if one piece would be better.
 
Old 09-28-2017, 08:30 PM   #4
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I've been getting the 4-piece puzzle like ones from Cummins lately. They don't impress me much though I'm yet to have one leak on me.......


Sometimes black RTV answers a lot of questions. I know that some of the places that sell a girdle for these motors recommend no gasket with RTV
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Old 09-28-2017, 08:44 PM   #5
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I hate to replace the pan now since it's powder coated. I'm not beyond using rtv and no gasket.

That leaves two questions, why do my ESN's only show the front rear reinforcement plates. I guess the newer 6.7 has an entire ring?

I can find shorter bolts.

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Old 09-29-2017, 03:13 AM   #6
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Does the pan leak? I used a 6.7 pan which had supports all the way around. And for the gasket I used the pink one with the blue silicone gasket printed on it from cummins. I didn't put any gasket dealer or rtv on it besides the four corners were the front timing cover and rear main housing met and I have zero leaks so far after 2k miles. Bolts torque'd to 18 ftlbsClick the image to open in full size.


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Old 09-29-2017, 03:16 AM   #7
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Click the image to open in full size.
I can't remember how long of bolts I used but with the 6.7 pan they just stick above the block casting.


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Old 09-29-2017, 06:32 AM   #8
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Show-off 😁

I used the pink with blue printed seal.

It sounds like err in this is not having the reinforcement plates (I never had them) as everyone has pointed out.

As for does it leak? It's on the stand and not fully assembled. I sure as hell don't want to find out after it's in a chassis.

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Old 09-29-2017, 07:30 AM   #9
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Well she-atClick the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.

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Old 09-29-2017, 07:48 AM   #10
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The problem is the sealer you used acts like a lube, so when you tighten the bolts the gasket can squirt out, if that makes sense. Should be putting it on dry or with some contact adhesive to hold it to the pan. Then put a small dab of sealer on the gasket joints where the rear seal carrier meets the block and the front cover where it meets the block.
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Old 09-29-2017, 07:49 AM   #11
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The pan is the issue. We missed some holes when we were knocking the pan rail back. I was in a hurry last night and didn't catch it. Click the image to open in full size.

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Old 09-29-2017, 07:57 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigYellowIron View Post
The problem is the sealer you used acts like a lube, so when you tighten the bolts the gasket can squirt out, if that makes sense. Should be putting it on dry or with some contact adhesive to hold it to the pan. Then put a small dab of sealer on the gasket joints where the rear seal carrier meets the block and the front cover where it meets the block.
We must have post at the same time, but yes, the sealer caused a problem.

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Old 09-29-2017, 08:11 AM   #13
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yer overtightening it
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Old 09-29-2017, 08:52 AM   #14
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Quote:
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yer overtightening it
It was done before I got it.

Anyone know what this gasket is? What the difference is? Click the image to open in full size.

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Old 09-29-2017, 10:47 AM   #15
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That's 5.9 pan gasket.
Cummins has since changed that part number and replaced it with a stupid puzzle gasket. I can still get the one piece part# in aftermarket.
 
Old 09-29-2017, 12:21 PM   #16
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So I would be OK to use it in this situation?


I need the reinforcement plates. It looks like the plates are integral to the pan on the 2012 serial number I looked up?

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Old 09-29-2017, 12:26 PM   #17
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Cluster repair.

Using the 25mm bolts in the aluminum with no backers put the threads of the bolts completely through the bores in the front housing. The tips of the bolts rolled threads on 3 of the 4. They destroyed the threads when I pulled the pan this morning.

So: Gardserts. Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.

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Old 09-29-2017, 01:26 PM   #18
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So I would be OK to use it in this situation?
yep
 
Old 09-29-2017, 01:40 PM   #19
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yep
Find me some backing plates


















Please
4937516
4937517

It looks like they dumped the #s for a new pan #

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Old 09-29-2017, 03:00 PM   #20
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Get shorter bolts, or shorten yours. I could sell you a 6.7 pan, I don't think those plates are available.
 
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