Wanting input on my high hp 48re set up

3

3rdgenmike

Member
Building my 48re and I'm wondering if anyone has any insight for what else I could do. I'm shooting for 1200-1300hp, but I want to be able to turn it up later and have my trans be fine.

Here's what's been done/parts list.
Bolt in sprag race
Sprag oiling mod
Santjer solid input with matching 2200-2600 stall converter
Sonnax 22121b-08k intermediate (the one that's needs machining)
Sonnax fat output
Sonnax overdrive support
4.2 lever
Sonnax pistons
Muldoons manual VB
Gpz clutches
Bw 2nd gear band

I'm shooting for .020-.030" end play. I'm debating on rollerizing my planetaries or keeping the thrust washers. I've heard good and bad for both. I do have a remote filter for the trans so the fluid gets filtered before going back to the trans. What else should I do?

Also, line pressure is set at 150psi 1-3 and 190psi in lockup or 4th. Should I increase it?
 
3rdgenmike said:
Building my 48re and I'm wondering if anyone has any insight for what else I could do. I'm shooting for 1200-1300hp, but I want to be able to turn it up later and have my trans be fine.



Here's what's been done/parts list.

Bolt in sprag race

Sprag oiling mod

Santjer solid input with matching 2200-2600 stall converter

Sonnax 22121b-08k intermediate (the one that's needs machining)

Sonnax fat output

Sonnax overdrive support

4.2 lever

Sonnax pistons

Muldoons manual VB

Gpz clutches

Bw 2nd gear band



I'm shooting for .020-.030" end play. I'm debating on rollerizing my planetaries or keeping the thrust washers. I've heard good and bad for both. I do have a remote filter for the trans so the fluid gets filtered before going back to the trans. What else should I do?



Also, line pressure is set at 150psi 1-3 and 190psi in lockup or 4th. Should I increase it?
Click to expand...
Do you have the upgraded Belleville spring? If not, don't go past 190. I learn the second time I shot the piston seal

All the mentions I found here of the rollers ended poorly. This is me thinking out loud, but the geometry doesn't allow them to rotate without torsion along the needle. They can only end in failure.

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biggy238 said:
Do you have the upgraded Belleville spring? If not, don't go past 190. I learn the second time I shot the piston seal

All the mentions I found here of the rollers ended poorly. This is me thinking out loud, but the geometry doesn't allow them to rotate without torsion along the needle. They can only end in failure.

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Click to expand...

I don't, but I'll order one now. Yeah, I'm probably going to leave it with the thrust washers.
 
Muldoon has certainly made a name for himself.
He hit the social media machine at the right time and seems to have solid work. I haven't really seen mention of anything talking poorly of him, but I don't venture away from compD for diesel related topics.

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What are you doing for your direct clutches/drum/piston? Fwd clutches?

Welding the front planet ring gear?

I'm 50/50 on the bolt in sprag. Best is to leave yours in and drill and tap it. Goerend used to do them, but now I think they only do them when they have a pile of cases that need it. I have the A&A kit, worked pretty good.

Sounds like it will be a solid transmission. As it has been mention, VB is key. I would require whoever you get the VB from to run it on the dyno before you get it.
 
Tobin said:
What are you doing for your direct clutches/drum/piston? Fwd clutches?

Welding the front planet ring gear?

I'm 50/50 on the bolt in sprag. Best is to leave yours in and drill and tap it. Goerend used to do them, but now I think they only do them when they have a pile of cases that need it. I have the A&A kit, worked pretty good.

Sounds like it will be a solid transmission. As it has been mention, VB is key. I would require whoever you get the VB from to run it on the dyno before you get it.
Click to expand...

I'm still waiting for the kit for the clutches to come in, so I'm not entirely sure.
 
Tobin said:
What are you doing for your direct clutches/drum/piston? Fwd clutches?

Welding the front planet ring gear?

I'm 50/50 on the bolt in sprag. Best is to leave yours in and drill and tap it. Goerend used to do them, but now I think they only do them when they have a pile of cases that need it. I have the A&A kit, worked pretty good.

Sounds like it will be a solid transmission. As it has been mention, VB is key. I would require whoever you get the VB from to run it on the dyno before you get it.
Click to expand...

I do plan on having the ring gears welded. Trying to find someone to tig it. I can mig, but I don't think that's acceptable.
 
Tobin said:
What are you doing for your direct clutches/drum/piston? Fwd clutches?

Welding the front planet ring gear?

I'm 50/50 on the bolt in sprag. Best is to leave yours in and drill and tap it. Goerend used to do them, but now I think they only do them when they have a pile of cases that need it. I have the A&A kit, worked pretty good.

Sounds like it will be a solid transmission. As it has been mention, VB is key. I would require whoever you get the VB from to run it on the dyno before you get it.
Click to expand...

Better have some dam good bits to drill that thing, or know somebody with a Bridgeport and some carbide end mills. I didn't have my Bridgeport when I built mine so I bought the A&A kit and was happy with it
 
Y'all got me scared about not doing the sprag in mine.
Oh well.

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Reb Brown said he has never really bothered with doing a bolt in sprag or drilling the case for more oil. He's only had a sprag issue from neutral dropping and never saw the need to drill the case because other areas in the transmission will just have less pressure.
 
Marq92 said:
Reb Brown said he has never really bothered with doing a bolt in sprag or drilling the case for more oil. He's only had a sprag issue from neutral dropping and never saw the need to drill the case because other areas in the transmission will just have less pressure.
Click to expand...
I think someone else here said the same about the neutral drop scenario.

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