Truckers, lets see your rigs!

jfaulkner said:
So if you build a bridge and it falls do you build it back the same way over and over? Not on my dime you won’t.
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There's always more than one way to skin a cat, and no one is obligated to use a Dealer if it's out of warranty. No different than taking a Chevy to a GM dealer or having a third party repair it.

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jfaulkner said:
I didn’t take a stab, it’s just almost every mechanic that went to school or especially a factory store parts changer like a Cat/Cummins “tech” are die hard Kool-Aid drinkers. The way they were told is the ONLY way it can be done. OEM is not always the best way, the aftermarket has proven that since the first car was invented. If everyone believed the crap they were told this site wouldn’t exist, no drag racing or sled pulling. The “maths” as you said would tell me I can’t uprate a 475 to 550 without a total driveline replacement. Want to guess how inaccurate that is or do you want to ask your teacher?

I get it, your in a shop that probably doesn’t allow you to think for yourself or try anything that isn’t within spec. But in my world spec is just a suggestion and the only way to know what works is to try it yourself. Sometimes it works and sometimes it costs you money. But I’ve found the best way to know for sure is to actually try it.



You don’t have to drive a show truck but it’s not that hard to keep things looking nice.





Yes
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You're on some kind of rant that doesn't have anything to do with me, if other than the fact that I said I would leave the cooler and re-plumb it.



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jfaulkner said:
You remember when Don was having all the issues with his MXS and was apart 3 times and each time Cat would only cut the counterbore on one hole? Typical dealer crap, just patch it up until it’s out of warranty. Probably down a week each time because doing all 6 once would have been stupid.
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Our shop has never cut one hole on an engine that dropped a liner.

You're using extremes to make your point like a fanatic does in an argument.

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This is why my “rant” applies to you.
biggy238 said:
Why would you want to? You would be better served to give it it's own cooling circuit to make it more efficient.

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Sounds simple........

biggy238 said:
.......I suppose we will just have to disagree on the usefulness of the precooler.

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I can prove the cooler is crap and you can disagree all you want, but if you can’t back up with facts why it is a huge benefit then it’s pointless. 125-135* air stock with 225*+ coolant temps vs 140-145* without and <200* coolant.

biggy238 said:
Yep, all that sciences and mathfs... I start ignoring it asap

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Again wouldn’t want real world tests to get in the way of your text books

biggy238 said:
While I'm curious how the outlet elbow works, I would still keep it and run its own heat exchanger and pump.

Is this the one you posted the charge air Temps from? The ~450° is consistent with what I was trained on. The liquid cooler dropped Temps to just above coolant temp from what I remember. Target manifold inlet temp is always 100 degrees for emissions engines. I don't know why that is the magic number.

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It’s the magic number that only you know about?

Cat turns the engine fan on at 150 and throws a high intake temp fault at 160/165 so maybe that’s closer to what they consider too hot?
 
jfaulkner said:
You remember when Don was having all the issues with his MXS and was apart 3 times and each time Cat would only cut the counterbore on one hole? Typical dealer crap, just patch it up until it’s out of warranty. Probably down a week each time because doing all 6 once would have been stupid.
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Sure do, took a performance shop to finally get it right.
 
RascalMafia said:
As opposed to what other method of repair?

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Not necessarily a different repair, but at least admit the part is **** and offer it at a discount rate since in all reality it should be a recalled part.

Then there is the delete option, but we know the semantics of that are so hush hush a dealer mechanic would never suggest that for fear of being dismissed.
 
jfaulkner said:
This is why my “rant” applies to you.



Sounds simple........




I can prove the cooler is crap and you can disagree all you want, but if you can’t back up with facts why it is a huge benefit then it’s pointless. 125-135* air stock with 225*+ coolant temps vs 140-145* without and <200* coolant.



Again wouldn’t want real world tests to get in the way of your text books




It’s the magic number that only you know about?

Cat turns the engine fan on at 150 and throws a high intake temp fault at 160/165 so maybe that’s closer to what they consider too hot?
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No, your vengeful attitude toward CAT dealers and "techs" has nothing to do with me nor anything to do with my skill level or background. It also has **** to do with what my employer calls me.






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And 150 what? Inlet Temp? ACERTS were melting the temp sensors when the rockers would snap, no inlet temp code to speak of.

But that can't be true because you didn't come up with it.



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Signature600 said:
I figured you'd tell me that....You were honestly going to be my first contact once we find the right truck.

Just wanted to make sure I could open it up to newer models and not just old ISC's

Thank you!
Chris
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Just need to a tractor front end kinda like this.
 

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biggy238 said:
And 150 what? Inlet Temp? ACERTS were melting the temp sensors when the rockers would snap, no inlet temp code to speak of.

But that can't be true because you didn't come up with it.



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The non acerts do that too, get so hot it discolored the paint. Had to use fuel temp sensor to get the truck home. Guess they need a precooler inside the head for when exhaust gas comes back in the intake side huh?

Bottom line is I have a 2006 T800 with the cooler and a 2006 W9 without, both are MXS and the one without has drastically cooler water temp and no high intake temp issues.

And I didn’t need a teacher to tell me that.
 
biggy238 said:
No, your vengeful attitude toward CAT dealers and "techs" has nothing to do with me nor anything to do with my skill level or background. It also has **** to do with what my employer calls me.






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I just asked what you call yourself, untie your panties.

I’m not a truckdriver or a mechanic. To make me feel smarter I now refer to my self as the “chief operations officer for the steel distribution division of my company”. And when I’m changing oil in my trucks I’m the “head of petroleum distribution and waste relocation engineer”. It’s hard to fit on my shirt name tag but it makes me feel more important.
 
Wonder if this guy has his Elog installed and an automatic transmission. Odd I don’t see the dash cluttered with a giant GPS, wonder how he finds where he’s going.
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