Anti-Rust/ Water Pump Lube in Water Injection Systems: Naphtha?

[Begle1]

I put this stuff in my water tank the other day.



C1012 - Anti Rust With Water Pump Lube

This is what lots of guys are using, right?

According to the MSDS (and the bottle), it's 10-30% naphtha and 1-5% triethanolamine. I assume the latter is an emulsifier to keep the naphtha dispersed in the water; otherwise naphtha is the same as lantern fluid, right?

What is the octane rating of naphtha, this naphtha in particular? This says that it's from 50-55, this says that autoignition point is significantly higher than propane or methanol. Is it possible for both to be true? What number should I care about?

If I keep using this stuff it's going to take a while to get used to the milky-white appearance.

[GOT-Torque]

I'll look at a bottle tonight to see what mine is called. Same stuff but a different brand I think...

I removed my water injection system for the winter months and drained the liquid back into an empty milk jug. Everyone that looks at it asks why I have a gallon of milk in the garage. It sure looks like milk...

[Joesixpack]

Sounds right, I use some CRC stuff, and get thats what the smell reminds me of.

Just make sure there is no glycol in the mix, because a % gets by the rings and gets steamed out through the crank case.

[JerrodGlover]

Water Soluble cutting oil here.

[Begle1]

Originally Posted by JerrodGlover

Water Soluble cutting oil here.

Do you know what's in that stuff? Active ingredients or MSDS? Just curious.

And does it make your water look like spluge?

[BigBadDodge]

Ditto on the CRC stuff, its what we use as well:

http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/co...x?S=Y&PN=05335





BBD

[SnowTech.4]

Just to clear things up on our end over here at Snow Performance.

Our pumps are designed to be used strictly with Pure Methanol and Water. Petroleum products such as oil and gas products will swell the pumps seals them begin to dry them out. This will greatly shorten the life of the pump.

Using this stuff diluted down enough may not cause any problems. We have not done any testing using these products so we have no data to show if it will have negative effects on your pump in the future.

My personal opinion would be to stay away from the stuff.

Here is a little info about naptha that I was able to find.

"In petroleum engineering, full range naptha is defined as the lightest or most volatile fraction of the hydrocarbons in petroleum"

"Naphtha is used primarily as feedstock for producing a high octane gasoline component (via the catalytic reforming process). It is also used in the petrochemical industry for producing olefins in steam crackers and in the chemical industry for solvent (cleaning) applications. Common products made with it include lighter fluid, fuel for camp stoves, and some cleaning solvents."

Let me know if you have more questions.

Thanks,
Grant

[BigBadDodge]

My bad, I was under the impression that since we are in the
"competition vehicle build" section that we were talking about the bigger gear driven water injection systems that use a Simpson valve, supply 10-12 nozzles, and the water sits for extended periods between pulls or races.

I don't, or have I ever used any lube in the Snow kits just water and methanol or boost juice.

Sorry for any confusion.

BBD

[Joesixpack]

X2.......were talking lube for protection of hydraulic gear pumps that are not designed for water.

Maybe if we stack 4 snow pumps will net the 800 psi or so?

No more questions .

[rpainter]

Originally Posted by SnowTech.4

Just to clear things up on our end over here at Snow Performance.

Our pumps are designed to be used strictly with Pure Methanol and Water. Petroleum products such as oil and gas products will swell the pumps seals them begin to dry them out. This will greatly shorten the life of the pump.

Using this stuff diluted down enough may not cause any problems. We have not done any testing using these products so we have no data to show if it will have negative effects on your pump in the future.

My personal opinion would be to stay away from the stuff.

Here is a little info about naptha that I was able to find.

"In petroleum engineering, full range naptha is defined as the lightest or most volatile fraction of the hydrocarbons in petroleum"

"Naphtha is used primarily as feedstock for producing a high octane gasoline component (via the catalytic reforming process). It is also used in the petrochemical industry for producing olefins in steam crackers and in the chemical industry for solvent (cleaning) applications. Common products made with it include lighter fluid, fuel for camp stoves, and some cleaning solvents."

Let me know if you have more questions.

Thanks,
Grant

what about the rust that can form in the cylinder head if the motor is not properly allowed to burn the water vapor or puddling inside the intake tract or/and head. I for one have seen a 24v head that rusted due to the water system???

[Begle1]

Good point. My system is pressure-washer based, so I don't need the lubrication and probably shouldn't be too eager to run petroleum-based products through it. I'm more interested in anti-rust, for the engine/ head and the steel fittings I used.

Is there such a thing as a non-petroleum-based water-soluble corrosion inhibitor? I dunno... Non-flammable biodegradable parts washing application or something...

MSDS for the CRC water pump lube is a bit different from the Gunk stuff. Naphtha is still the main active ingredient, only instead of 1-5% emulsifier they list 2-5% "corrosion inhibitor blend". Which begs the question... Is Gunk lacking in the corrosion inhibition department or is CRC's "corrosion inhibitor blend" really just an emulsifier? They'd have to emulsify the naphtha in the water somehow. I can't find anything that says triethanolamine is an effective anti-rust agent. Maybe it doesn't matter because the stuff doesn't do anything anyways.
I'm thinking they're both the same thing.


As for the water-soluble cutting oil, I can't find anything saying what's in that stuff. It's either a clear or amber color though? That'd probably mean it's essentially different than the milky-white radiator stuff.

[kxhonda]

The water soluble coolant is usually amber colored by itself but turns to a milky whitish-blue color when mixed with water. Heres a msds for the coolant we use at work. http://www.houghtonintl.com/images/795%20B%20MSDS.pdf

[Begle1]

Hmm...

That says it's a mix of mineral oil and glycerin.

Glycerin is water soluble and not a hydrocarbon, right? Like a more viscous antifreeze?

[SnowTech.4]

Originally Posted by rpainter

what about the rust that can form in the cylinder head if the motor is not properly allowed to burn the water vapor or puddling inside the intake tract or/and head. I for one have seen a 24v head that rusted due to the water system???

The only reason that we would have issues with not consuming all the water/methanol injected into the motor would be if the customer was heavily over injecting and/or not allowing the truck to run a 5 minute cool down before shutting it down after injecting.

[RAMICATOR]

Originally Posted by kxhonda

The water soluble coolant is usually amber colored by itself but turns to a milky whitish-blue color when mixed with water. Heres a msds for the coolant we use at work. http://www.houghtonintl.com/images/795%20B%20MSDS.pdf

hmm. thats the same stuff we use at the machine shop for coolant.

[05_LLY]

Originally Posted by JerrodGlover

Water Soluble cutting oil here.

X2!!