what to build....

I've found my block needs a .10 bore to clean it up. It's only the one cylinder but, while it's apart.... the plan is to do more.

custom cuts Arias are an option but, will cause my truck to be down for 2 months. Apparently it's a month just to get the pistons done. My trucks not a daily but, I also don't plan it to be a trailered truck. It will being seeing it's track time though.

I searched back through a few threads about pistons and which ones are being used but, most of the talk is about 12/24V trucks.

Is there a real benefit to spend the kind of cash aftermarket pistons run or are coated Cummins pistons as good an option.

I'd also be interested to hear the kind of motor you guys would put together to help me in the options of my build. I know you guys like to be secretive with your tricks but... there's a lot of them so a mix of a few wouldn't hurt op: I have a few idea's you've already seen but would appreciate to hear from the more experienced ... thanks

Hmm, if you don't want a 12 or 24-valve truck, I guess it would be a Powerstroke or a Duramax.

PRattenbury said:

Hmm, if you don't want a 12 or 24-valve truck, I guess it would be a Powerstroke or a Duramax.

Click to expand...

:bang most of the reference are about the older 24v's .... not much from 4.5 on. I don't know what kind of differences there are from then to the current, if any

My guess is if only one cylinder is bad, and needs a 0.10 bore to clean up, then it needs a sleeve. If it only needs .010 that is different, but chances are you will only find pistons in .020 over. Piers diesel has a set of industrial pistons with a fairly low top ring, steel ring landing on the top, and about .25 points lower comp due to a more open bowl. About 350 a set, and if you want to coat them I think polydyn will do tops and skirts for about 35 each.

My personal choice would be the Cummins 04.5'+ pistons with .030" machined off the tops and then sent to SwainTech for ceramic coated tops and teflon skirts.

brandon.

I hope this would not be considered a hijack. It is relevant to the ongoing discussion. I could be wrong, but was the history on this engine something to do with a dropped valve seat? That seems to be a common issue with the early common rail engines. I read someplace ceramic coating the tops of the pistons does well to protect the pistons, but passes the heat on to the top of the chamber, or the bottom of the head, if you will. Would that exacerbate the valve seat problems if you didn't also coat the head? Just trying to learn here.

well what's being talked about is custom cut Arias. Since I'll have newer over sized valves they can have valve reliefs cut to perfection along with the ring cuts. The stock rods I'm told have been know to split so, HD pins and rods are also a possibility

As mentioned any other stock forged pistons would only come in certain sizes which would require more boring they necessary. These motors have the room for 2 bores before being sleeved so, I didn't want to go that route if it wasn't needed.


Sombrero Joe... I thought I read the 4.5's don't work well with the newer block. I could be wrong. From what I understand also... ( guess you can tell I don't know a lot but, am trying to learn with you guys help ) the compression can be dealt with in the cam's cut without a whole lot done to the pistons.

As I said... I'm not a diesel mechanic but, am doing what I can to play catch up

^ The pistons work fine in the newer block it's the proper clearancing that is needed for the intended build-up useage..... obviously a streeter vs. racer -you would have a different desired clearance blueprint spec to follow