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Old 06-30-2018, 03:08 AM   #1
Fast12v

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Canít keep my head down.

Had my head machined flat and the block was checked to make sure it was flat. Installed arp 425s and within 3 pulls on a back road at right under 70psi blew the head gasket. Got the gasket fixed and everything was checked for flatness along with 3 retourques and my boost turned down to 55psi and I now have another blown gasket within 1000miles. No leaking coolant but lots of bubbles in my overflow and tons of white foam in the oil. I really hate having to pull the head and flush all my fluids every 800 miles so Iím thinking arp 625s and find a place to put orings in the head should solve the problem. Any other ideas to help solve this problem? With 625s and orings be enough? Anyone know a place around east bay California that does orings? Thanks
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1994 12v Cummins, s366sxe, 5x.018 PDD injectors, 188-220 Hamilton cam, 60lbs VS, Hamilton pushrods and tappets, 4K gov springs, 022 DV, Overflow and rack plug, 21į timing, 0 plate, Airdog165, NV4500 w/ dual disk south bend and 1 3/8th input shaft.
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Old 06-30-2018, 06:59 AM   #2
jasonc

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Orings and your 425's will be fine.
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Old 06-30-2018, 08:17 AM   #3
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Fast12valve, have you had it checked for cracks?

Mark.
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Old 06-30-2018, 08:39 AM   #4
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Oil cooler in good shape?
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Old 06-30-2018, 11:51 AM   #5
Fast12v

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Yes the head was checked for cracks when it was at the machine shop
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1994 12v Cummins, s366sxe, 5x.018 PDD injectors, 188-220 Hamilton cam, 60lbs VS, Hamilton pushrods and tappets, 4K gov springs, 022 DV, Overflow and rack plug, 21į timing, 0 plate, Airdog165, NV4500 w/ dual disk south bend and 1 3/8th input shaft.
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Old 06-30-2018, 11:54 AM   #6
Fast12v

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95cummins5.9 View Post
Oil cooler in good shape?
How do you test the oil cooler? I’m thinking it’s the head gasket because anytime I drive it hard the upper rad hose is hard and lots of bubbles in the overflow tank. If I unscrew the radiator cap there is a huge release of air too.
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1994 12v Cummins, s366sxe, 5x.018 PDD injectors, 188-220 Hamilton cam, 60lbs VS, Hamilton pushrods and tappets, 4K gov springs, 022 DV, Overflow and rack plug, 21į timing, 0 plate, Airdog165, NV4500 w/ dual disk south bend and 1 3/8th input shaft.
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Old 06-30-2018, 11:56 AM   #7
Fast12v

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Originally Posted by jasonc View Post
Orings and your 425's will be fine.
This will be the 2rd time they will be taken out and then reinstalled. Are they still good after being taken out and reused?
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Old 06-30-2018, 12:00 PM   #8
jasonc

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Should be fine, try to get around 140lbs out of them. Get up to 125 and then slowly bump them 5lbs at a time with a good brake in between. Then heat cycle the engine a couple of times and retorque. Remember to reset your valve lash after you retorque, especially if the studs moved any.
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Old 06-30-2018, 01:42 PM   #9
Fast12v

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Ok sweet. I’ll look for a place to oring the head and then give it a shot. Thanks
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Old 06-30-2018, 01:51 PM   #10
95cummins5.9
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast12v View Post
How do you test the oil cooler? Iím thinking itís the head gasket because anytime I drive it hard the upper rad hose is hard and lots of bubbles in the overflow tank. If I unscrew the radiator cap there is a huge release of air too.
Can you see on the old gaskets where the bad spot is?
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Old 06-30-2018, 05:11 PM   #11
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If you o-ring or Fire ring it you shouldn’t have any more issues. But I actually would not suggest torquing the studs past what arp calls for
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Old 06-30-2018, 05:54 PM   #12
Fast12v

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95cummins5.9 View Post
Can you see on the old gaskets where the bad spot is?
First time the gasket didn’t look like it was messed up at all but coolant was pouring out of the side of the engine. This 2nd time no coolant is leaking but I have coolant in oil and oil in coolant and the radiator hose gets super hard with lots of bubbles and pressure in the cooling system. I don’t think the problem is the gaskets being bad. Just that the head keeps lifting enough to let exhaust out of the cylinders.
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Old 06-30-2018, 05:56 PM   #13
Fast12v

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddin_dude06 View Post
If you o-ring or Fire ring it you shouldn’t have any more issues. But I actually would not suggest torquing the studs past what arp calls for
Do you think the 425s will be enough or should I get the 625s so I can tighten it down more.
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Old 06-30-2018, 06:12 PM   #14
jasonc

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddin_dude06 View Post
If you o-ring or Fire ring it you shouldnít have any more issues. But I actually would not suggest torquing the studs past what arp calls for
I've taken stock bolts to 140'ish, by going slow and taking my time. I'm all about money better spent elsewhere, 625's are expensive. All your after is crushing that o-ring and sealing off the rest.
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Old 06-30-2018, 09:20 PM   #15
mhuggler

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonc View Post
Should be fine, try to get around 140lbs out of them. Get up to 125 and then slowly bump them 5lbs at a time with a good brake in between. Then heat cycle the engine a couple of times and retorque. Remember to reset your valve lash after you retorque, especially if the studs moved any.
^This. Also, I've found that things as simple as what type/brand thread lubricant used can make a huge difference in actual clamping force ending up on the head. Don't cheap out! (Like I did....once).
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Old 06-30-2018, 09:27 PM   #16
95cummins5.9
 
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Arp stud lube! You can take stockers to 150 with some patience. Im with jason, 425s torque to 140-145 with ease. A hot retorque always gives me almost a quarter turn on 425s. Orings, try some copper spray too.
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Old 07-01-2018, 04:36 PM   #17
jedeka

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I had 425 studs and fire rings in my 12v pulling truck. With 55 psi of boost, I could lift the head. When I rebuilt the engine, I switched to 625 studs. Expensive, yes, but I haven’t had an issue yet. I will check torque on the studs before I run the valves. So far, so good.
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Old 07-01-2018, 04:41 PM   #18
gwhammy

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What kind of timing are you running?
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Old 07-01-2018, 10:01 PM   #19
Fast12v

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What kind of timing are you running?
21į of timing.
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1994 12v Cummins, s366sxe, 5x.018 PDD injectors, 188-220 Hamilton cam, 60lbs VS, Hamilton pushrods and tappets, 4K gov springs, 022 DV, Overflow and rack plug, 21į timing, 0 plate, Airdog165, NV4500 w/ dual disk south bend and 1 3/8th input shaft.
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Old 07-02-2018, 07:56 PM   #20
Fast12v

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Can’t find any shops around me to cut orings. Thinking about buying that isky oring t cutting tool and just cut the grooves in my block myself. Has anyone ever used this or any reasons why I shouldn’t do this?
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1994 12v Cummins, s366sxe, 5x.018 PDD injectors, 188-220 Hamilton cam, 60lbs VS, Hamilton pushrods and tappets, 4K gov springs, 022 DV, Overflow and rack plug, 21į timing, 0 plate, Airdog165, NV4500 w/ dual disk south bend and 1 3/8th input shaft.
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