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Old 10-30-2016, 05:54 PM   #1
BlackasCoal
 
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Yet another 6.4 build in a Mega cab though

Really starting this to get some last pieces of advice before I send everything off to machining at the end of the month. I've done reaseach and read a lot but can't beat the experience here. So here is it.

Bought this Mega cab in the later part of last winter. Short story, it's been a mess. I'm embarrassed to say I trusted people too much and got bit. Was sold to me as a "long rod 6.4" but some electrical issues, that made me think I lost a cylinder, led me to tear the thing apart. Glad I did because I found it to be a decked block, standard length rod version of their 6.4. Along with some other corners cut. I know some would say I could have just ran it but I didn't feel comfortable with a 1300hp goal daily driver and probably higher here and there. So I got another block off Mark and the correct rods from Wagler. Ready to start over.

Here is my list so far. Tired to remember everything but my have missed some small things. I have everything except for the few last big items noted that I'm still waiting on to make a final decision. My mind set is, do everything to the block now so I don't have to open it up later to say, fly cut the pistons because I want to swap cams. Or because my goal changes and gets higher. If my budget runs high on the block work. I'm gonna start cutting things I wanted to do to the head down. Trying to stay below 7k for machine work and assembly.

Machine work and assembly is going to be down by Millers up in PA and I will be having the Transmission checked out and refreshed by Muldoons Diesel Performance because I don't trust what's suppose to in it.

Direction and advice are greatly appreciated.

Engine work
Clean and prepare block
Bore and hone main caps with studs
Bore for cam bushings through block
Install cam bushings
Resurface cylinder block
Bore & sleeve cylinder block back to 6.7 std bore 4.2

Crankshaft work
Rebalance crank shaft
Balance piston/rod/flexplate assemblies
Weld on crank shaft gear

Cylinder head work (Shelf already cut off for B&B intake) (Interior freeze plugs already tapped and plugged)
Clean and pressure check cylinder head
Resurface cylinder head
cut & o-ring
Port & Polish
3-angle valve job
Replace valve guides
Install over-sized valve seats
Install HD Inconel exhaust valves through-out (24)

Assembly
Full assembly of block and head
New piston rings
New HD cam shaft bushings
New HD crank shaft bearings
New HD rod bearings (cap end)
New seals and gaskets
New MLS head gasket

Provided (Already have/will have before dropping off)
ARP 625 head studs
ARP rocker arm studs
ARP 12mm main studs and girdle bolts
ARP damper bolts
Stock girdle
D&J block freeze plugs for side and front
Rear freeze plug block off plate
D&J 6.7 pistons, .100 fly cuts w/ tool steel wristpins (Donít have, havenít decided)?
6.7 fluid dampr
Wagler .080 longer billet rods (Paid for waiting on Wagler/4 week lead time)
Hamilton 188/220 cam
Hamilton #103 springs
Hamilton extreme duty push rods
Hamilton bronze cam retainer
Hamilton bolt on cam gear retainer
Titanium retainers ​
Keepers
5.9 crank shaft
Stock bore 6.7 block
6.7 head
Valve seals
Timing case
Oil pump
Rear main housing

Fuel (I do have an Industrial Injection 85% over pump, not sure I want to run it with the 12mm)
DDP 350% 03-04 5.9 injectors (Waiting on final piston decision)
ATS dual cp3ís
DDP 12mm cp3 w/ stock 5.9 cp3
Use 5.9 crossovers with the 5.9 injectors? Iíve heard 5.9 injectors could leak when using 6.7 crossoversÖ?

Air (What I have as of right now. Planning on upping to a S485 first then upping the secondary to a S465)
Firepunk compunds
ED S366/74/1.0 Ė Billet 6 wheel
ED S480/96/1.32 Ė Billet 7 wheel
Turbosmart Hyper-gate 45 WG (May not use)
Turbosmart BOV

Transmission
Goerend TC
Full billet Goerend 48RE
Suncoast 48re sfi billet flexplate
Freshening and installing Phat Shaft output
Tunning/Electronics
Gordon at Innovative Diesel
06-07 5.9 ECM
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07.5 MCSB, Thuren/Carli/King, 35" Toyos MT's, 17" Methods, Millerís Machine Shop 6.4 w/ Wagler long rods, QSB pistons, 188/220 cam, Ported/big valve head, Muldoons Phat shaft 48re w/ anteater, DDP 5.9 fuel, Firepunk 66/85, Firepunk EFI
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Old 10-30-2016, 06:01 PM   #2
BlackasCoal
 
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And some pictures to compensate for all that reading.

Click the image to open in full size.
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07.5 MCSB, Thuren/Carli/King, 35" Toyos MT's, 17" Methods, Millerís Machine Shop 6.4 w/ Wagler long rods, QSB pistons, 188/220 cam, Ported/big valve head, Muldoons Phat shaft 48re w/ anteater, DDP 5.9 fuel, Firepunk 66/85, Firepunk EFI
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Old 10-30-2016, 06:38 PM   #3
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Sick build and beautiful Shepherd!
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Old 10-30-2016, 07:26 PM   #4
BlackasCoal
 
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Thanks, hoping to have it ironed out and running sooner then later! She's a great pup for sure. I can piss away all the money I want on this thing and she can't complain haha

*edit* Sorry about the list as well everyone. A lot was copied from my check list so some of the pointless, obvious stuff is on there.
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07.5 MCSB, Thuren/Carli/King, 35" Toyos MT's, 17" Methods, Millerís Machine Shop 6.4 w/ Wagler long rods, QSB pistons, 188/220 cam, Ported/big valve head, Muldoons Phat shaft 48re w/ anteater, DDP 5.9 fuel, Firepunk 66/85, Firepunk EFI

Last edited by BlackasCoal; 10-30-2016 at 07:30 PM.
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Old 10-30-2016, 08:12 PM   #5
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The 5.9 injector crossover tubes have been superseded with the 6.7 style of I'm not mistaken.
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Old 10-30-2016, 08:12 PM   #6
Poulina
 
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Please do something about the chrome grill
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Old 10-30-2016, 08:21 PM   #7
BRE
 
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I may be talking outta my arse on this as my level of interaction on this level of build is on CompD and has never been hands on... with that said, is DDP the best option on the injectors? (I'm unsure if you meant you had them or were waiting to buy)

And I also am not aware of the 5.9 tubes leaking with 6.7 injectors.
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07 Dodge 3500 - Tow mirrors, silencer ring MIA, Spectra air filter.
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There really is nothing better than OEM. That goes for anything from turbos to boobs.
RIP Dex KCCO
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Old 10-30-2016, 09:09 PM   #8
BlackasCoal
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poulina View Post
Please do something about the chrome grill
Meh, eventually. My brother is actually a painter too and still haven't got around to it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Poulina View Post
The 5.9 injector crossover tubes have been superseded with the 6.7 style of I'm not mistaken.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BRE View Post
I may be talking outta my arse on this as my level of interaction on this level of build is on CompD and has never been hands on... with that said, is DDP the best option on the injectors? (I'm unsure if you meant you had them or were waiting to buy)

And I also am not aware of the 5.9 tubes leaking with 6.7 injectors.
I haven't ordered the injectors yet. Want to have the pistons picked out first. From my interactions with them on the phone and talking to other guys running their stuff I'm completely comfortable giving them my business. BUT I made the same assumption when buying this truck and this is where I'm at now. So, yeah I'm open to someone talking me out of that route

As for the tubes from what I've read and not experienced I see guys that swap over to 6.7 fuel system complain about it. As with anthing though there's just as many that say there's no problems. It's like the which head studs debates
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Old 10-30-2016, 11:09 PM   #9
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DDP is awesome. Top of the line company with very fair pricing.

Don't overthink the piston thing man, those D&J steel ring land slugs are huge bucks. And overkill imo for a block that isn't going to see enormous numbers like some of the deck plate motors out there.

Those QSB's are a good choice, but nothing wrong with a nice new set of stock 6.7 pistons with flycuts!!

You didn't mention a power goal, or why your going to be using the truck for
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Old 10-30-2016, 11:27 PM   #10
BRE
 
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1300hp Daily driver.

DDP common rail stuff must be different than their mechanical injectors. However like I said, I have no experience with them.
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07 Dodge 3500 - Tow mirrors, silencer ring MIA, Spectra air filter.
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Originally Posted by jfaulkner View Post
There really is nothing better than OEM. That goes for anything from turbos to boobs.
RIP Dex KCCO
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Old 10-31-2016, 12:14 AM   #11
BlackasCoal
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BRE View Post
1300hp Daily driver.

DDP common rail stuff must be different than their mechanical injectors. However like I said, I have no experience with them.
Bad experience with there 12v stuff?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Poulina View Post
DDP is awesome. Top of the line company with very fair pricing.

Don't overthink the piston thing man, those D&J steel ring land slugs are huge bucks. And overkill imo for a block that isn't going to see enormous numbers like some of the deck plate motors out there.

Those QSB's are a good choice, but nothing wrong with a nice new set of stock 6.7 pistons with flycuts!!

You didn't mention a power goal, or why your going to be using the truck for
The dilemma I'm having with the pistons is I can go the OEM QSB route and be satisfied but they're about 1950ish with cuts and coating. So they'd be right at D&J's price for just the piston without the tool steal wristpins. I could go Mahle that are cheaper but the selling point on the OEM version is supposedly theyre 30% stronger. Not sure if that goes for the mahles as well? I also have a good set of stock pistons here that I could get cut and coated. Not sure I'm willing to take the chance and have to be opening this thing back up a year from now to replace something I shouldn't have done in the first place. So that's about where my head is on the piston choice.

Would it even all that matter if I'm going to coat them anyways? You know if the stock pistons are prone to cracking?

1300, maybe a bit more, would be a number I'd like to hit here and there on a max effort tune so to speak but drive around lower. On 35's might be tougher to hit that but that's part of my reasoning for keeping the charges on the smaller side and putting money into internal hard parts to keep it together. If that makes sense.
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Old 10-31-2016, 01:27 AM   #12
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Mechanical DDP stuff for me has just always been a little warmer and smokey. However it's a different ball game. That's why I was asking.
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There really is nothing better than OEM. That goes for anything from turbos to boobs.
RIP Dex KCCO
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Old 10-31-2016, 04:48 AM   #13
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Sounds exactly like the 6.4 build I'm wanting to do. I'm going to use my 2006 5.9 head so I can utilize my pretty much brand new exergy injectors along with Standard QSB industrial 6.7 Pistons to keep bowl and spray pattern close to the same.
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Old 10-31-2016, 05:43 AM   #14
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Sounds exactly like the 6.4 build I'm wanting to do. I'm going to use my 2006 5.9 head so I can utilize my pretty much brand new exergy injectors along with Standard QSB industrial 6.7 Pistons to keep bowl and spray pattern close to the same.
Are you going to drill the steam holes?
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Old 10-31-2016, 12:06 PM   #15
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Don't waste money on coating pistons, I've heard they eventually flake off the skirts and plug up the rings, pretty sure pumphrey talked about it on his podcast with street diesel power. Clearances throughout the engine (especially top end) should be appropriate for a compound turbo 1300hp engine, that's important.

Anything over that number with a 6.7 is risky with out a thick sleeve, or deck plate especially with compound turbo imo...
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Old 10-31-2016, 01:28 PM   #16
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I've read about messing with the steam holes too but haven't dug deep enough to get a good picture in my mind or reasoning on how it works.

Had 24hr duty last night so spent a long time on the piston thing messaging and bothering guys elsewhere who are running 6.4's in this setup. Also read a good thread from 4 years ago about spray angle and cone profile. So the QSB is going to be the route I'm gonna take too. No coatings but fly cuts just incase I decide on running a different cam down the road. Now to order them. I've been looking at a place called Enterprise Engine Performance out of Ohio probably going to call tomorrow if I a get chance.

Also Emailed the machine shop today again to get a better, more accurate quote.
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Old 10-31-2016, 02:20 PM   #17
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Enterprise is a good place to go 👍🏻 Les with silver Bullet tuning likes the QSB design and late 5.9 cone angle injector. Lavon also used that setup as well, almost positive that's what he is still currently using
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Old 10-31-2016, 02:29 PM   #18
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Enterprise will take care of you, I'm actually about 95% sure the Drew of D&J used to work there before he started his own shop.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
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Old 10-31-2016, 02:49 PM   #19
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Quote:
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No coatings but fly cuts just incase I decide on running a different cam down the road.
Why do fly cuts for in case you go to a bigger cam? I'd think you wouldn't want to drop that much compression for a daily driver. I'm thinking if you've got 1300hp in mind, you're going to have to have a pretty high stall converter in order to have a good time DDing.

Very sweet truck BTW. Are you running no front swaybar, or was that just an intermediate picture?
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Old 10-31-2016, 03:28 PM   #20
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That's good to hear. I'll call tomorrow then so I can get the pistons here.

Compression was a concern too. I meant to put it in the top I wanted to stay at stock. So I'll cut that out too! The original 6.4 that was in the truck was supposedly lower compression and hated the cold. I'd rather not have that on this one. I'll have to look at the converter again but I wanna say the stall was higher. It was written on it just didn't take note. The original owner daily drove and towed with the truck on a 476/87.

I haven't had a sway bar in probably 4 years now. Coming in and out of trails or roads is super smooth. Towed aross the country without one and never had any issues.
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