Anyone messed with lighting on a school bus?

Well....I'm getting there.

The diode installed on solenoid #1 was backwards. It was shorting ACC to ground when energized. Got that fixed. Now we have power to everything.

Now the only issue I have is that the buzzer under the drivers sliding window will not SHUT UP!!!! It looks to be really simple. There is a bk/yl from the ACC post to the buzzer. The rd/bk grounds it. The schematic shows it to be a simple wire to the rear emergency door. When I take P153 apart (the harness that heads to the back of the bus) the buzzer goes off. However, when I get to the rear of the bus, there are like 4 or 5 wires coming into the R.E.M. assembly, not just one rd/bk. The remote door assy has a relay and two switches. I’ve cleaned and tested both switches. Each switch functions properly and turns the buzzer in the door assembly on and off like it should. I just can’t figure out how to get the dang buzzer up front to turn off. I can’t figure out what I’m missing here.

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Emergency Exit buzzer was shorted out. The wire crossing the roof to the front passenger side exit window was chaffing on the angle brackets holding the roof vent/exit hatch in place. Got that taken care of. Now....for the broken low beam wire somewhere in the hood and the radio that doesn't work. Man..bus #7 is a pile. LOL
 
There are more diodes in the headlight circuit and there should be a DRL module that could be affecting the headlight.

Does the radio come on, just no sound? Pull it out and hook up just one speaker. If that works you have at least one bad speaker. That bus may be different, but most buses the speakers are connected in series.
 
Would you happen to have the master chassis diagram for that bus? The guy at the OKC dealership emailed it to me but it isn't legible. I have nothing showing me how the headlamps are wired as it's not included in the bluebird schematics on the website.
 
Well, fixed another bus last night. Had a turn signal out of an International. Googled it. Found out the replacement was $139!!! Holy HELL!!!

Managed to get it apart and tracked the issue down to a 1N4007 Diode...which cost about $.11 on average. What a crock!!!

Found an old diode out of my lab kit from college, did a little remove and replace with some solder, and wolla...good as new...except you can see where I pried it apart around the edges.

Hey, Scott, when you have these lights that don't work, save them for me will ya. :D

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Well, we have a BUNCH of them bad. We have 250 of the IC bastages. The only bus I hate worse than a BB is an IC. The oldest ones we have, though, were bought at the end of 2015, 120 of them. Manufacturers warranty is 5-years on them. Every time I get replacements they're a different part number, so evidently the manufacturer keeps changing them or IC keeps changing vendors on them. The biggest problem we have with them is water intrusion. We do get a few that are dry but have a row of LEDs out. They bought three rounds of IC's. After the first round they spec'ed a 5-year Bumper-to-Bumper warranty...

Some of our Thomas buses have LED lights. Thomas uses Weldon lights. We don't have any problem with them and they aren't NEAR as expensive as the IC lights. IC just cheaped out.

Got to tell you about this. I can't help but think about it every time I talk LED lights.

I listen to a local sports talk station most of the time and they used to have Frank Wychek, retired Titans tight end, on the morning show. They would do live commercial spots and Frank's was for a local Cadillac dealer. I'm sure they're reading their bits, but Frank talked about the new Cadillac's LED lighting for a week before someone corrected him. He pronounced it like the metal LEAD.
 
Some of our Thomas buses have LED lights. Thomas uses Weldon lights. We don't have any problem with them and they aren't NEAR as expensive as the IC lights. IC just cheaped out.
Tbb warranty is 5yr from date of light manufacture for ky busses. Ymmv since it's TN spec.

You might be able to help me out. I have an 2016 IC pusher bus that the Allison shift pad goes blank on (loss of power) after about 45min of use. We replaced the shift pad this spring. Allison says wiring is IC, IC points at Allison. Either way, I'm blind. I'm certain it's a relay or breaker saturating and going open, but I don't have schematics.

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Coinsidentally, our trucklite rep stopped in. He said the lights on the busses use a sealant that degrades when phosphate detergent hit them. After that, water intrusion kills them.

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Coinsidentally, our trucklite rep stopped in. He said the lights on the busses use a sealant that degrades when phosphate detergent hit them. After that, water intrusion kills them.

That has GOT to be a load of manure....since the glue that held this SOB together was like that crap they glued a chain together with and picked up a bus! I can't see anyway for water to get inside the one I took apart. It took me over 30 minutes to get the glue seam to split without cracking the lens. I used gorilla glue to put it back. Hopefully it works for a few years. It is the nicest bus and the one my kids ride. It's one of our newest.

And with the lamps mounted vertically....it is only a flat PWB with LED's and two diodes on it. The diode failed in this one. Water can't cause that unless the lens fills up to the point that it shorts out more of the traces than the diode can handle....but I don't see that happening. The whole light would need to fill up.

Where does a person find International wiring diagrams online? Are they online like the BlueBird site has?
 
Well, next time I get one in that's filled with water I'll post a pic. Maybe TruckLite is the manufacturer for IC.....

I MAY be able to get access to some diagrams. Shoot me a VIN and I'll see what I can do. May be tomorrow. Got to go put a pitman arm on my truck right now.
 
That has GOT to be a load of manure....since the glue that held this SOB together was like that crap they glued a chain together with and picked up a bus! I can't see anyway for water to get inside the one I took apart. It took me over 30 minutes to get the glue seam to split without cracking the lens. I used gorilla glue to put it back. Hopefully it works for a few years. It is the nicest bus and the one my kids ride. It's one of our newest.



And with the lamps mounted vertically....it is only a flat PWB with LED's and two diodes on it. The diode failed in this one. Water can't cause that unless the lens fills up to the point that it shorts out more of the traces than the diode can handle....but I don't see that happening. The whole light would need to fill up.



Where does a person find International wiring diagrams online? Are they online like the BlueBird site has?
Easy killer. Just because I'm parroting what he said doesn't mean I agree. Lol
I actually just tossed some wheldon lights I should have dissected

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Well, next time I get one in that's filled with water I'll post a pic. Maybe TruckLite is the manufacturer for IC.....

I MAY be able to get access to some diagrams. Shoot me a VIN and I'll see what I can do. May be tomorrow. Got to go put a pitman arm on my truck right now.

I don't need them currently, I just wondered if they were out there and as easy to get to as the BB's.

Easy killer. Just because I'm parroting what he said doesn't mean I agree. Lol
I actually just tossed some wheldon lights I should have dissected

Sales guys. The technical knowledge of a rose pedal. LOL
 
Well, what do you know. Had a tech bring me two tail lights and two reverse lights just this morning. He removed them yesterday and laid them flat on his bench overnight. The tail light still has most of the water in it but it drained out of the reverse light. You can still see the drops inside it, though.

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Wow. That's crazy. The one I fixed never leaked, just crapped out. Looks like the OEMs need to swap adhesives....especially if they are gonna charge over $100 for the damn things.
 
I'll tell ya....after it took me so long to actually break into one I would have never guessed they could take on water.
 
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