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06-27-2017, 11:24 AM
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#1
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Name: thisguy65
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2017
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 119
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best bang for buck coolant bypass?
I've been looking at these after a few friends experince with their 5.0 mustang (coycote motors) where they would pop due to a lean condition in the ECM programming and that rear cylinder being the hottest. I saw the fleece kit and while it's very nice, for what I'm doing it's out of price range.
I did happen to find this guy
Dodge 5.9L Cummins Cylinder #6 Cooling Kit Improves Coolant Flow
I assume it can be installs to the port can face the driver or passenger side.
Just run a line from the rear of the block to where the metal heater hose bolts to the thermostate housing.
any other ideas?
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06-27-2017, 01:59 PM
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#2
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Name: jimbo486
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Orange County, CA
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 1,617
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__________________
1990 Dodge D350
Giles' 12mm VE - Airdog II 165 - 370s @ 75lpm - BW S362fmw/68/12 - Hamilton 182/214 - '01 NV5600
Last edited by jimbo486; 06-27-2017 at 02:01 PM.
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06-27-2017, 02:06 PM
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#3
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Name: thisguy65
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2017
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Posts: 119
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Very nice!
Why is a pressure relief valve used and why not just let it circulate?
What paint did you use for your block? How has it held up?
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06-27-2017, 02:21 PM
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#4
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Name: jimbo486
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Orange County, CA
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 1,617
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I asked that question here before I put mine together and what comes up is that it's somewhat dependent on what you plan to do with the truck. What kind of RPM range the engine will see. Usually, just replacing all of the large expansion plugs in the block with billet pieces is the remedy to preventing a blow out. At that point, I suppose a bypass may not be necessary anymore. Others might have opinions and reasons why it is.
Even though I installed billet freeze plugs, my thinking shifted to the concern of coolant flow. Which is when I began asking which was most concerning; relieving pressure, promoting flow or are they both important? Pressure seemed to outweigh flow. My thinking is that if enough pressure does build up prior to or after the thermostat is opened, the valve opens and dumps some pressure while simultaneously allowing some coolant flow until the valve closes again. Granted, it's only through a 1/2" hose and ultimately a 1/4" NPT fitting into the thermostat housing so the volume and rate may be small and not continuous.
Majority of the time, a pressure relief is used because of the rapid expansion from heat in the system around #5 and #6. As you're probably aware, the circulation of coolant lacks around those 2 cylinders. From the rapid expansion, excessive pressure is possible. Especially when running the engine hard when not up to normal operating temperature with the thermostat still closed. Expansion plugs can and have blown out.
I had the shortblock rebuilt by a machine shop and I don't recall what paint was used, other than a gloss. It just went back together last week so no telling yet how well it'll hold. The shop tells me it holds up good from what they've experienced.
__________________
1990 Dodge D350
Giles' 12mm VE - Airdog II 165 - 370s @ 75lpm - BW S362fmw/68/12 - Hamilton 182/214 - '01 NV5600
Last edited by jimbo486; 06-27-2017 at 02:24 PM.
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06-27-2017, 02:58 PM
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#5
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Name: thisguy65
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2017
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 119
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The valve is just to dump pressure ahead of the thermostat, see and understand that. However, why not just run it with out, there will be a constant flow (small a mount) Might take a half of a mile more to get warmed up completely but there is always something bleeding off.
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06-28-2017, 12:45 AM
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#6
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Name: 95cummins5.9
Title: Old man ***** gossiper
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: U.S.A
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Posts: 4,720
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The engine won't build good heat with it constantly bypassing the stat.
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06-28-2017, 12:54 AM
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#7
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Name: wildbill144
Title: Green Behind the Ears
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Lake's region NH
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Posts: 91
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What did you do to the block side where that jiggle valve was.
__________________
98 12v tow pig plow truck. 97cclb 7"lift,DOR full kit, long arm's etc.37 toyo MT,ARB's F/R,4.56 35 spl axels. Engine trans being built
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06-28-2017, 02:55 AM
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#8
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Name: wildbill144
Title: Green Behind the Ears
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Lake's region NH
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 91
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wow are you supporting it across the manifold. im trying to figure this out my self
__________________
98 12v tow pig plow truck. 97cclb 7"lift,DOR full kit, long arm's etc.37 toyo MT,ARB's F/R,4.56 35 spl axels. Engine trans being built
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06-28-2017, 08:55 AM
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#9
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Name: thisguy65
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2017
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95cummins5.9
The engine won't build good heat with it constantly bypassing the stat.
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I would think it would. The amount (volume) that would be going through a 1/4npt is pretty small. Then add pressure and volume decreases, by passing only thing doing is giving the pressure a means of escaping before building up to pressure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wildbill144
What did you do to the block side where that jiggle valve was.
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Jiggle valve?
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06-28-2017, 11:35 AM
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#10
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Name: gman99
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Sep 2012
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Posts: 224
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I built this for my coolant return. I used the same rear plate and Watts valve. The main difference is my setup isn't fighting the flow of the engine at the thermostat housing and maintains a full 5/8" all the way through the system.
Bottom line his is prettier; mine flows more. Whether or not that makes a difference is anyone's guess though.
__________________
98 QCLB 4x4 12V, ARP625+ Studs, 14mm mains NonIC pistons, Ported head, Marine Cam, Hamilton Pushrods and Tappets, BeeHive springs HE351cw over Billet S475, 4KGSK, 5X.018's, 7mm DV's, 24 Degrees Timing, 5" Exhaust, TCS Input, DPC Converter, Firepunk Competition Rebuild Kit
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06-28-2017, 04:40 PM
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#11
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Name: thisguy65
Title: Diesel Enthusiast
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2017
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gman99
I built this for my coolant return. I used the same rear plate and Watts valve. The main difference is my setup isn't fighting the flow of the engine at the thermostat housing and maintains a full 5/8" all the way through the system.
Bottom line his is prettier; mine flows more. Whether or not that makes a difference is anyone's guess though.
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Did you notice your motor taking longer to warm up?
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06-28-2017, 05:06 PM
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#12
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Name: Redrider2911
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Yakima, WA
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 780
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thisguy65
Did you notice your motor taking longer to warm up?
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The Watts valve will only open with excess pressure... Usually you wont have excess pressure during warm up because you will be keeping the RPMs down.
__________________
49 Willys Pickup. 5600lb. 11.8sec @115mph 1/4. 12 valve. MegaSquirted 47RH. 3.54 posi rear. 35" tires. 64mm HE351ve, S475 (75/96/1.32), A/W Intercooler. AFC mods. 5x16s. 191 DVs, 180 pump. 23*. 85psi. Build Thread
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06-28-2017, 06:42 PM
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#13
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Name: Financial Mistake
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2017
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Posts: 278
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Mine is almost the same as Jimbos, just not quite as refined because I suck at tape measure and have been too lazy to shorten the lines.
I run all engineered diesel freeze plugs, including the rear plug with the 1/2" outlet, into a watts 530c regulator, thru -10an line, and into a engineered diesel thermostat housing spacer with a 1/2" inlet. I honestly can't remember if I have my thermostat before or after the bypass, but I'm pretty sure the bypass bypasses the thermostat, but can't say with 100% certainty.
I run dual derale fans on a toggle, that I never use since the one thing dodge did right was implement a good cooling system, that just having air run thru the rad period keeps the engine well within operating temps. I stay around 185-200° even in stop and go traffic in N Texas heat.
So, no, no problem getting the engine to warm up, even in the dead of winter, all 2 weeks of it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
P24V, Billet 62/68/14, Billet 475/96/1.32, 27°, Seth's Stg 3 @ 450cc, dual feed, DFI 7x12, Fass240, 110#, 425, p&p/3 angle/oring, ED freeze plugs, BD IC, VP MAX boots, stainless mani, Snow w/m, coolant bypass, CTS2, EAS, POS NV4500, valair quiet dual ceramic
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06-28-2017, 09:17 PM
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#14
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Name: jimbo486
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Orange County, CA
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 1,617
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildbill144
What did you do to the block side where that jiggle valve was.
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What's this jiggle valve you speak of?
Quote:
Originally Posted by wildbill144
wow are you supporting it across the manifold. im trying to figure this out my self
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No support along the manifold.
To add a little more info, the stainless braided hose was a custom piece ordered through and made by Swagelok. They have a premade hose listed on their website with the correct length and fittings I wanted but it had to be custom made, for reasons I can't remember. It has tube adapters (for compression fittings) crimped at both ends. That alone was about $95. All of the fittings, excluding the PRV, are stainless which added to the overall cost as well. I don't like rust.
__________________
1990 Dodge D350
Giles' 12mm VE - Airdog II 165 - 370s @ 75lpm - BW S362fmw/68/12 - Hamilton 182/214 - '01 NV5600
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06-29-2017, 09:45 AM
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#15
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Name: biggy238
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Just North of Wrong
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 10,868
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Jimbo, what brand are the compression fittings you used? I just installed my Fleece kit and the soft hose is kinked from the poor bend radius (I bought it used so I can't blame them much) and the metal tube is the solution I arrived at also.
Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
__________________
Check out @bdmaximusworx
05.5 Campanella White TDi Jetta 5spd 45.5MPG
-Little Sexy
'10 Silver F250 CCLB 4X4 6.4L cummins Swapped
Insta @trash.panda250
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06-29-2017, 11:15 AM
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#16
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Name: joefarmer
Title: MR. Supreme Overlord
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: ohio
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 6,137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biggy238
Jimbo, what brand are the compression fittings you used? I just installed my Fleece kit and the soft hose is kinked from the poor bend radius (I bought it used so I can't blame them much) and the metal tube is the solution I arrived at also.
Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
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Discount Hydraulic Hose I plumbed my last dual CP3 setup using most all hardline with their parts and a flaring tool.
__________________
brandon'); DROP TABLE Users;--1948 Dodge 1.5t 12v RH swap | 99 F250 12v RE test rkt | 11 X5 'no soup' | 08 F250 CR RE swap | 05 2500 CR 68 standalone
firepunk.com
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06-29-2017, 11:41 AM
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#17
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Name: jimbo486
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Orange County, CA
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 1,617
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All of the fittings I used are Swagelok. They use dual ferrules, a front and back. I have an assortment of them in a Rubbermaid container in my garage.
__________________
1990 Dodge D350
Giles' 12mm VE - Airdog II 165 - 370s @ 75lpm - BW S362fmw/68/12 - Hamilton 182/214 - '01 NV5600
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06-29-2017, 12:28 PM
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#18
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Name: biggy238
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Just North of Wrong
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 10,868
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-8, - 10?
Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk
__________________
Check out @bdmaximusworx
05.5 Campanella White TDi Jetta 5spd 45.5MPG
-Little Sexy
'10 Silver F250 CCLB 4X4 6.4L cummins Swapped
Insta @trash.panda250
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06-29-2017, 05:48 PM
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#19
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Name: jimbo486
Title: Too Much Time
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Orange County, CA
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 1,617
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1/2", -8.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
__________________
1990 Dodge D350
Giles' 12mm VE - Airdog II 165 - 370s @ 75lpm - BW S362fmw/68/12 - Hamilton 182/214 - '01 NV5600
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07-11-2017, 07:28 PM
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#20
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Name: wildbill144
Title: Green Behind the Ears
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Lake's region NH
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 91
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Sorry thisguy65 I just saw you ask about the jiggle valve, funny name but that's what the service manual called it, its the one way brass fitting that the small hose that comes off the thermostat housing to the manifold go's to. It bleed's off excess air pressure, If you have it off shake it up and down and you'll hear the valve inside jiggling, guess that's where the name comes from. Lol..
__________________
98 12v tow pig plow truck. 97cclb 7"lift,DOR full kit, long arm's etc.37 toyo MT,ARB's F/R,4.56 35 spl axels. Engine trans being built
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