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Dodge Competition and Performance General Dodge Competition and Performance Discussion |
09-20-2012, 01:15 PM
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#1
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Name: ARbowhunter7
Title: Opulence...I Has It.
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: White, GA
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Need Some Head Repair Advice
I recently got my truck back from the shop with a mint, fresh head installed. Everything looked fine, but it kept leaking coolant from the heater core outlet at the front of the head. Through all the efforts at tightening/sealing it there's now a hairline crack at the outlet that extends about 1/2" down the front of the head. Not bad, but enough to spray a little coolant.
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1348164714.949658.jpg
I need to fix it, but I'm a newb when it comes to Devcon repair. Which Devcon would work best here and what's the method of application in a crack that small? How would you prep the surface inside that little crack? And should I remove the fitting before repairing?
Thanks in advance.
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Welding Rig - 2014 Longhorn 3500 C&C 4x4 Aisin
-S400 swap, Carli Suspension, Synergy/EMF Steering, King 2.5
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09-20-2012, 01:19 PM
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#2
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Name: BluegrassDiesel
Title: UK2K!
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I would talk to the shop that installed the head. Sounds like it was cracked to begin with
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Josh Land
Bluegrass Diesel Performance
Lancaster, Ky
SHOP ONLINE @ http://WWW.SHOPBLUEGRASS.COM
97 DodgePPL Limited Pro Stock "The Crippler"
09 3500 GMC CCDually
05 Silverado SS
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09-20-2012, 01:24 PM
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#3
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Name: ARbowhunter7
Title: Opulence...I Has It.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teddybear
I would talk to the shop that installed the head. Sounds like it was cracked to begin with
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It was double checked for cracks by a good machine shop before it went on. It definitely wasn't cracked before, as I inspected it thoroughly when resealing the outlet.
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Welding Rig - 2014 Longhorn 3500 C&C 4x4 Aisin
-S400 swap, Carli Suspension, Synergy/EMF Steering, King 2.5
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09-26-2012, 11:24 AM
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#4
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Name: ARbowhunter7
Title: Opulence...I Has It.
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Come on...somebody knows the answer to this!
Encouragement:
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1348676616.495021.jpg
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Welding Rig - 2014 Longhorn 3500 C&C 4x4 Aisin
-S400 swap, Carli Suspension, Synergy/EMF Steering, King 2.5
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09-26-2012, 11:28 AM
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#5
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Name: camarokiller
Title: Too Much Time
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If you lived closer I'd TIG it for you
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UMWA Local 1702
1995 RCSB 2WD wh1c/47rh-4k and 60# springs-fuel system by me- low and slow
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09-26-2012, 11:28 AM
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#6
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Name: camarokiller
Title: Too Much Time
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Welding is prob your best option
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UMWA Local 1702
1995 RCSB 2WD wh1c/47rh-4k and 60# springs-fuel system by me- low and slow
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09-26-2012, 11:28 AM
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#7
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Name: wideopen
Title: Slum Lord
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JB Weld FTW!
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09-26-2012, 11:33 AM
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#8
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Name: ARbowhunter7
Title: Opulence...I Has It.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wideopen
JB Weld FTW!
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I'm Alabama born, Georgia raised...don't think that hadn't crossed my mind. Haha.
Seriously, though, I would think a crack that small in a non-crucial location like that wouldn't need to be welded?
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Welding Rig - 2014 Longhorn 3500 C&C 4x4 Aisin
-S400 swap, Carli Suspension, Synergy/EMF Steering, King 2.5
Last edited by ARbowhunter7; 09-26-2012 at 11:34 AM.
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09-26-2012, 11:46 AM
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#9
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Name: LReiff
Title: The Antistock
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I would braze it.
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Lee
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4dually
If anyone thinks the internet is serious they should seriously log off and burn their laptop.
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09-26-2012, 11:47 AM
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#10
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Name: Joesixpack
Title: Pull'n it.
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I'd install a pipe bushing dry and tig the bushing and crack. Then I'd quit over tightening them.....lol.
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Basically stock if I would have built it at the factory.....
Last edited by Joesixpack; 09-26-2012 at 11:49 AM.
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09-26-2012, 11:53 AM
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#11
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Name: WUnderwood
Title: CompD Minion
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I would drill a small hole at the end of the crack so it would stop spreading
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2011 Ford F-150 Lariat 4X4
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09-26-2012, 12:15 PM
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#12
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Name: ARbowhunter7
Title: Opulence...I Has It.
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: White, GA
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Posts: 1,370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WUnderwood
I would drill a small hole at the end of the crack so it would stop spreading
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Good call on the drill stop. I remember doing that on a transfer case. I have heard you can't braze a head without removing it, but I'm assuming you can TIG it with it in place?
I read somewhere about a guy doing a small crack repair by drilling out the end of the crack, getting epoxy down in the crack and then peening the crack shut with a small punch. Any thoughts on this?
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Welding Rig - 2014 Longhorn 3500 C&C 4x4 Aisin
-S400 swap, Carli Suspension, Synergy/EMF Steering, King 2.5
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09-26-2012, 12:35 PM
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#13
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Name: LReiff
Title: The Antistock
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Epoxy sucks.
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Lee
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4dually
If anyone thinks the internet is serious they should seriously log off and burn their laptop.
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09-26-2012, 06:07 PM
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#14
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Name: Ben46a
Title: Puller wannabe
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I don't think epoxy will hold up In this particular case .I agree with at least brazing it though.
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2008 Ram RCLB 2500 4x4,6.7, 3850 SBCDD, 3.42, II 85% cp3, 75/83/1.0, 2nd gen PDI manifold, torker 150 hp inj, ADII 165, Hellman Sump, A1 H11 studs, Smarty TNT, BHAF, Hellman intercooler, passenger diesel intake system and grid delete.
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10-01-2012, 03:37 PM
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#15
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Name: ARbowhunter7
Title: Opulence...I Has It.
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: White, GA
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Posts: 1,370
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Can you TIG it while its on the truck, considering the crack is easily accessible?
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Welding Rig - 2014 Longhorn 3500 C&C 4x4 Aisin
-S400 swap, Carli Suspension, Synergy/EMF Steering, King 2.5
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10-01-2012, 03:54 PM
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#16
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Name: camarokiller
Title: Too Much Time
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ARbowhunter7
Can you TIG it while its on the truck, considering the crack is easily accessible?
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No reason you can't. Just unhook the battery grounds.
__________________
UMWA Local 1702
1995 RCSB 2WD wh1c/47rh-4k and 60# springs-fuel system by me- low and slow
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10-01-2012, 07:00 PM
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#17
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Name: ARbowhunter7
Title: Opulence...I Has It.
Status: Not Here
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: White, GA
Member`s Gallery
Posts: 1,370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camarokiller
No reason you can't. Just unhook the battery grounds.
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Awesome. Thanks man.
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Welding Rig - 2014 Longhorn 3500 C&C 4x4 Aisin
-S400 swap, Carli Suspension, Synergy/EMF Steering, King 2.5
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10-01-2012, 07:05 PM
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#18
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Name: 12vriviera
Title: That Guy with that car
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Location: north texas
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Devcon metal welder by 3m the one epoxy i have used without any prep and it hasn't failed On plastic or metal... Aluminum and steel.. With prep it had to be awesome!
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10-01-2012, 07:46 PM
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#19
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Name: lenahan05
Title: Comp Diesel Sponsor
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Location: Terre Haute, Indiana
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epoxy will work fine. or jb weld will also. have done both on my own stuff and never leaked again. epoxy holds up to just about anything. heat/movement/ shifting ect with no issues. we use it on alcohol aluminum heads and diesel intake ports when you cut into water jackets.....
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10-01-2012, 08:33 PM
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#20
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Name: 9724VF350
Title: Tractor Guy
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Thread tape+thin spot of cast iron, aluminum, ect = use great caution when tightening.
I've used JB in that sort of application and have it give up when 200* or so is reached.
I'd probably epoxy (not sure what, but something dang good) the chit out of it and then thread it in finger tight, maybe lightly snug it with a wrench. Too much tension on tapered threads and it's gonna get worse even if you drill a hole at the end.
If it was a customers, I'd quit wasting my time trying to fix it and put a different head on it.
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97 F350 4X4 CC Dually 5spd 24V 913 S300/HT3B Ranch Hand.
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