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Old 01-05-2018, 07:38 AM   #21
Red Sleeper
 
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Show & Tell: The crap I do under a tarp

Damn that crimp tool would be nice. I've eyed them for a few years now, AC machine first for me.

I like your heat shield on the HVAC box, just might borrow that same idea. What sort of support do you have on the two primaries? Is it just supported via the piping and tied together with the speed sign bracket?

I've found the same short comings of the VE as well. Especially compared to driving my common rail Cummins. Seems a VE will pull hard up to 2,800 and then turn off, allowing your forehead to bonk the steering wheel if not careful. The low end torque is hard to beat for daily work.

Also, when you narrowed the rear axle, did you remove the axle tubes? I see they are seal welded to the differential.
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Last edited by Red Sleeper; 01-05-2018 at 07:39 AM.
 
Old 01-05-2018, 08:22 PM   #22
BC847
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Sleeper View Post
I like your heat shield on the HVAC box, just might borrow that same idea. What sort of support do you have on the two primaries? Is it just supported via the piping and tied together with the speed sign bracket?

I've found the same short comings of the VE as well. Especially compared to driving my common rail Cummins. Seems a VE will pull hard up to 2,800 and then turn off, allowing your forehead to bonk the steering wheel if not careful. The low end torque is hard to beat for daily work.

Also, when you narrowed the rear axle, did you remove the axle tubes? I see they are seal welded to the differential.
Yup, the HVAC box was a hoot.
As found, the blower motor was dead-against the 3" hotpipe coming off the upper primary. So . . .

- I moved the blower motor a little deeper in its mounting flange, that gave me almost a half inch.

Click the image to open in full size.



- I raided the kitchen (again) and got a little stainless bowl and dimpled its floor . . .

Click the image to open in full size.



- A small section of 26ga sheet metal completes it. There's right at 1/4" space between the heat-shield and the HVAC box stuff .. .

Click the image to open in full size.



The primaries are tied together by a 10ga(ish) aluminum alloy bracket . . . .

Click the image to open in full size.



Using that same metal, I made a second bracket that attaches to the block side of the lower primary . . .

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.



At the block, that lower primary bracket attaches to the oil-cooler cover-plate. I included a notch in the plate so as to afford access to the oil pressure regulator . . .

Click the image to open in full size.



While not intended as a sho'nuf anchor-point, the cold pipe Wye-pipe ties the faces of the two primaries, with the face of the secondary. Certainly, it helps steady things.
The exhaust down-pipe ties the rears of the primaries together. The downpipe is secured at the transmission bellhousing (as per stock/OEM).

I figure the general triangular shape of the turbo assembly, coupled with the methods/materials used to tie it all together, allow a little wiggle room for thermal expansion/contraction, etc.



Yup, my torque is rolling off well before 2500 IIRC. That being said, it's had over 400hp to the ground after 4000.



The axle was actually narrowed about 2.5" per side. This was to ensure the same footprint as the original axle. Had to move the spring perches inward about 5/16". The narrowing involved simply cutting out a plug of the axle tubes close to the brake flange. (I farmed out the axle housing/tube stuff so they could keep the heap straight).

Currently, I run some stupid simple, bolt-on ladder bars. They are good for nothing but going absolutely straight. They do **** for general suspension performance other than prevent axle-wrap. That being said, I've run them for perhaps eight or so years now and, considering how i use the truck, I've never had a noticeable issue with them. But then, I don't intentionally try to diagonally traverse ditches either.

Well, with a new axle come an opportunity to improve on the anti-wrap stuff. Running heavy leaf-springs on top of a stock/OEM 8" block complicates poop though.

I had the axle tubes welded to the diff house in the event the method I used to locate the axle presented substantial twisting loads to one side or the other, of the diff housing.
At the moment, I was considering something like that used on some of the cars . . .

Click the image to open in full size.



Dunno just yet. Bolted the ladder bars back on for now.
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Silencer ring MIA, str8 pipe with 10" exhaust tip, 250psi boost gauge, ghost-lights 'n truck-nutz. K&N air filter next (if my grades are good enoufh).
 
Old 01-08-2018, 09:44 AM   #23
Chris Tobin
 
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Great fab work all around for sure!!!!
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Old 01-20-2018, 01:08 AM   #24
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Welp, got it all back together just in time for my Son to say: "Why's it sitting so high in the back?"

Because the stupid new spring perches are right at 3/4" taller than the OEM units. ->GOT'CHA!!<-

It's about seven inches from the top of the tire, to the wheel-well up front, and eleven inches at the back.

- I removed the very bottom, true leaf-spring. It's about 3/8" thick. It may even soften the ride a little. (I kept the very bottom 3/4" flat Shelf-spring thing).
- I removed about an inch from the bottom of the stock/OEM lift-blocks. Had to notch them for the ladder-bar mount.
I drilled and tapped a hole in the base and spun in a rounded-head 3/8" bolt to replace the block's locating-pin.

Click the image to open in full size.



Over all it dropped the rear about 1.75". The ass is still in the air compared to the front, but notably lower than before the mod. It's positively NOT doing he Carolina-Squat.


I'm now at the coast for the second time in the last week with a solid 500ish miles on the R&P.
The truck certainly handles differently under a firm throttle. I don't know it it's the locker or the new wheels/tires.

I'd been running these for the last ten or so years . . .

Click the image to open in full size.



Recently switched over to these as I was at the limit of traction with the former . . . .

Click the image to open in full size.



It seems to pull a LOT harder than before .. . . but that may also be the additional air.

Dunno. Got to get on with increasing the volume from the lift-pump stuff.
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Silencer ring MIA, str8 pipe with 10" exhaust tip, 250psi boost gauge, ghost-lights 'n truck-nutz. K&N air filter next (if my grades are good enoufh).

Last edited by BC847; 01-20-2018 at 01:14 AM.
 
Old 01-20-2018, 09:20 PM   #25
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Runs good! Toying with the idea of a similar triple turbo setup on a tow truck.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Old 01-22-2018, 11:14 AM   #26
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Personally I would get rid of the cast block... I have heard of and seen broken ones and that could get ugly with a powerful truck!!!

If you determine that you still need a block at all, determine the height you need/want then use a fabricated block like the ones that Top Gun Customz makes. I have them on my Tahoe and if I needed a block on my Silverado these are the ones I'd use for sure!!!

Suspension Components - Lift Blocks - Dodge
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Old 01-23-2018, 05:26 PM   #27
BC847
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Tobin View Post
Personally I would get rid of the cast block... I have heard of and seen broken ones and that could get ugly with a powerful truck!!!

If you determine that you still need a block at all, determine the height you need/want then use a fabricated block like the ones that Top Gun Customz makes. I have them on my Tahoe and if I needed a block on my Silverado these are the ones I'd use for sure!!!
I've, off and on, considered replacing the OEM cast lift-blocks with something of steel, with some means of custom fabing/including stuff to mimic the Caltrac type design.

Still ciphering on it.

Anyhoo . .. .

Back to what I was doing when the rear-end showed it's @ss.

My injectors are big enough that at WOT, they draw enough fuel volume that the case-pressure is dropping/sagging thus retarding the injection event timing while at WOT.

I've been running a simple Walbro-392 through an Aeromotive bypass-type pressure regulator set for 18ish psig. At WOT, that feed-pressure drops to 16ish psig. (At that pressure, the Walbro moves only a few less GPH than an Aeromotive 1000)

So: Walbro-392 v2.0

Click the image to open in full size.


We'll see . . . .
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Original owner of a VE fueled 1993 W250 ClubCab.


Silencer ring MIA, str8 pipe with 10" exhaust tip, 250psi boost gauge, ghost-lights 'n truck-nutz. K&N air filter next (if my grades are good enoufh).
 
Old 01-23-2018, 05:42 PM   #28
jasonc

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Dam, did you make that double fuel pump holder?
 
Old 01-23-2018, 05:47 PM   #29
BC847
 
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Originally Posted by jasonc View Post
Dam, did you make that double fuel pump holder?
Nope, it's actually found on hot-rodded smaller aircraft running the likes of Lycoming, Continental, Rotax, etc engines.

Racetech/SDS . . . .. w ww.sdsefi.com/aircraft.html
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Original owner of a VE fueled 1993 W250 ClubCab.


Silencer ring MIA, str8 pipe with 10" exhaust tip, 250psi boost gauge, ghost-lights 'n truck-nutz. K&N air filter next (if my grades are good enoufh).

Last edited by BC847; 01-23-2018 at 05:50 PM.
 
Old 01-23-2018, 06:24 PM   #30
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wow you have some good Fab work Where did you get the ac line stuff if you dont mind me asking
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Old 01-23-2018, 06:26 PM   #31
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That fuel pump setup is ingenious. Nice find!
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Old 01-23-2018, 07:06 PM   #32
BC847
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by not enoughsmoke View Post
wow you have some good Fab work Where did you get the ac line stuff if you dont mind me asking
Thanks.
Places like:
Auto A/C Fittings

Cold Hose - AC Hoses, Hose Kits and Fittings


Pretty-much just did a lot of Google searches.

One thing I found right off was:
- Most of the older automotive AC systems used what one might call a Standard hose wall thickness (Standard Barrier).
- Newer vehicles take advantage of newer technologies/materials and use a Reduced Barrier type hose. I suppose it's for the weight savings overall.

Basically, the latter is thinner than the former. That being said, pay attention to what fittings/hoses you're contemplating buying. The reduced-barrier fittings won't work on the standard barrier hose, for example.

If you can effectively envision where you want stuff to run, it's then a matter of finding the correct fittings (What connects to it, what it connects to, what direction you want it to point, etc), then select the appropriate hose.

There are companies that will custom make stuff for you, but you've GOT to provide them with the complete plan you have in mind, so that what they make (based on YOUR plan) fits like you intend.


In my case, the stock/OEM refrigerant lineset had the suction line leave the H-block and run diagonally down the fenderwell to the compressor. That location potentially conflicted with the top primary turbo. My concern was the heat would threaten the rubber hose.
So, I made a new H-block fitting that would have that suction line run straight forward, past the hot stuff, and turn down in front of the top primary, on its way to the compressor.

Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.


At the compressor, the OEM stuff had that suction line pointing at the lower primaries hot stuff. Had to locate fittings that would aim the hose nipple at the front of the turbos.


I converted all the hoses from the original standard-barrier to the reduced-barrier as I needed the room.
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Original owner of a VE fueled 1993 W250 ClubCab.


Silencer ring MIA, str8 pipe with 10" exhaust tip, 250psi boost gauge, ghost-lights 'n truck-nutz. K&N air filter next (if my grades are good enoufh).
 
Old 01-24-2018, 07:55 AM   #33
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Your ladder bar idea should work really well. And it's a simple solution that won't hinder axle articulation.

I built that exact same concept for a lifted Dakota with 1 ton axles on 39" rubbers. Only difference is I left mine slightly lower than the drive shaft for protection. Otherwise, all axle wrap was removed.
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Old 02-07-2018, 07:25 PM   #34
BC847
 
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To keep this thread alive, I reckon I need to post something. Not done much to the truck in the last week or so. That new axle was not planned. The lot rent for the beach place is due, auto insurance, etc. You know the drill.

Perhaps I can Show-&-Tell a few things I found looking stuff to make stuff with . .. .

- Frigging velocity stacks are expensive for what they are. My stock-pot cold-air intake was originally made using a 4" turbo supply. I needed to up-size it for the triples.
Check the folks who make dust/shavings collection systems. You know, the stuff for woodworking shops etc. They often use round duct-work.

Click the image to open in full size.



I used that to blend the air-filter element to the actual duct . . .

Click the image to open in full size.



That round duct-work needs adapters to connect the drop-lines to the main truck-lines. I found one of those adapters was an excellent fit for the turbo feed Tee . . .

Click the image to open in full size.



That hot-pipe from the secondary to the primaries was a hoot. The way things fall in the 1st Gen engine bay, the typical mandrel-bent exhaust tubing would not fit the way I was steering things as the smallest radius available would be in the HVAC box.
As I understand how mandrel-bending works, to make a bend as sharp as I needed, would have the metal of the outer radius be stretched too thin resulting in fracture/perforation.
So, I found a company that makes Donuts. CRS and stainless steel donuts to be exact. They stamp 14ga metal so as to make 1/2 of the donut. They punch that out of the plate. To complete the things, they then weld the outer seam (you get to weld the inner seam). I could only find one company that makes them, and they're especially proud of them.

BUT, It appears they sell the blemished product on Ebay for a LOT less.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.



They were most helpful in keeping the hot-wye compact . . .

Click the image to open in full size.



That wye-pipe for the cold-side includes a bollard cap (mocking-up stuff here) . . . . .

Click the image to open in full size.



A stainless steel 33qt stock-pot, makes an excellent air filter housing . . . .

Click the image to open in full size.



Throw in some seamless gutter metal and . . . .

Click the image to open in full size.



Click the image to open in full size.



Necessity is the mother of invention.


.
__________________
Original owner of a VE fueled 1993 W250 ClubCab.


Silencer ring MIA, str8 pipe with 10" exhaust tip, 250psi boost gauge, ghost-lights 'n truck-nutz. K&N air filter next (if my grades are good enoufh).

Last edited by BC847; 02-07-2018 at 07:32 PM.
 
Old 02-07-2018, 09:26 PM   #35
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So, as a welder/fabricator by trade... I can't follow that last post through. Did you section a pre-fab "doughnut" into an intake tract ? And what part of that had to do with the "hot" y-pipe ??? Just trying to understand your specific thought train... I appreciate your fabrication skills for sure ��
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Old 02-08-2018, 02:38 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BC847 View Post
At the moment, I was considering something like that used on some of the cars . . .

Click the image to open in full size.



Dunno just yet. Bolted the ladder bars back on for now.
I run an axle wrap bar like this on my little 03 shorty 12v swap truck. I wanted to keep the stock rear leaf springs for comfort but not twist them to shred and wheel hop was an issue so I went with one of these. the shackle on one end allows the rear suspension to still work but no axle wrap or wheel hop.
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Old 02-09-2018, 08:04 PM   #37
BC847
 
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Originally Posted by QMFB View Post
So, as a welder/fabricator by trade... I can't follow that last post through. Did you section a pre-fab "doughnut" into an intake tract ? And what part of that had to do with the "hot" y-pipe ??? Just trying to understand your specific thought train... I appreciate your fabrication skills for sure ��
The goal was to make sharp turns in pipe, the radius of which is not available with the typical mandrel-bent pipe.

I used the donuts to fabricate the plumbing of the hot-stuff exclusively. Those pics of the donut being sectioned and welded together are simply images of what one might do with the things (as provided by the donut vendor).

- That hot-pipe coming off the secondary is 3" 14 gauge 304 SS. The donut was the only means of making the turn as sharp as I needed it (3" bend radius).

- The Hot-Wye is of a 2.5" 14 gauge 304 SS. It has a 2.5" bend radius. That greatly helped keeping the Wye compact, . . . . eight of the nine voices agreed.

Click the image to open in full size.


(My welding sucks, leave me alone).
__________________
Original owner of a VE fueled 1993 W250 ClubCab.


Silencer ring MIA, str8 pipe with 10" exhaust tip, 250psi boost gauge, ghost-lights 'n truck-nutz. K&N air filter next (if my grades are good enoufh).

Last edited by BC847; 02-09-2018 at 08:15 PM.
 
Old 02-10-2018, 07:17 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BC847 View Post
The goal was to make sharp turns in pipe, the radius of which is not available with the typical mandrel-bent pipe.

I used the donuts to fabricate the plumbing of the hot-stuff exclusively. Those pics of the donut being sectioned and welded together are simply images of what one might do with the things (as provided by the donut vendor).

- That hot-pipe coming off the secondary is 3" 14 gauge 304 SS. The donut was the only means of making the turn as sharp as I needed it (3" bend radius).

- The Hot-Wye is of a 2.5" 14 gauge 304 SS. It has a 2.5" bend radius. That greatly helped keeping the Wye compact, . . . . eight of the nine voices agreed.

Click the image to open in full size.


(My welding sucks, leave me alone).
Your welds look fine! Sweet looking setup there, dont worry my tig welds look worse than that. Guess thats what I get for only using tig once a month.
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Old 02-11-2018, 04:41 PM   #39
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Very well done BC847 ��... Keep up the awesome work.
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Old 02-26-2018, 05:46 PM   #40
BC847
 
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Originally Posted by mfsuper90 View Post
Your welds look fine! Sweet looking setup there, dont worry my tig welds look worse than that. Guess thats what I get for only using tig once a month.
Most of my experience in bonding metal is by way of 5~15% silver-brazing typical copper piping in HVAC&R stuff. Else, not very often with a Dayton 100amp buzz-box ac stick-welder. My Dad had a VERY old (75years?) 400amp buzz-box. It's massive!

However, five or so years ago, a former employer sold me a slightly used Miller Maxstar 150 STL for less than $1000 IIRC. It included the wah-wah peddle. I used it to TIG the SS hot-stuff and the CRS of the exhaust plumbing. I'd never welded SS before.

That being said, the vast majority of the welds in the turbo and exhaust stuff are without filler-metal being added.
- Those pipe-to-pipe butt-joints were cut flat, then trued with a 16" disc-sander. Having the joints butt-up very well, I simply fluidized a puddle all the way around.
- The V-band flanges are of the stepped-type in that they can fit a number of size pipes. I simply used the neighboring step in the flange as filler, and flowed it down into the pipe.
- Rather than worry with purging everything with Argon along the way, I used the powder/alcohol mix stuff specifically for welding SS (I can't remember its name).
- I used my exhaust-pipe expanders to hold all the round stuff true to one another. THAT worked sweetly.

I learned how SS holds the torch heat MUCH more that comparable steel metal.
I learned the importance of jig/fixtures for holding stuff and welding in short dashes (warping).
There's to much undercutting for my liking.

I need a LOT more practice!


I'm still recovering from being burn't-out with the turbo-build.

We poked around under the truck and hood this past weekend.
- Many of the engine oil seals are weeping. I figure the 285,000 miles on the short-block have the pistons/cylinders less than parallel & true. Bringing the heap up to full boost . . . . . often . . . . doesn't help.
- Found the water-pump was weeping around its shaft-seal. Replaced it (2nd in 25 years).
- Checked/adjusted the valve-lash.
- Cleaned/oiled the air-filter.
- Checked/tightened all the fasteners in the passenger-side of the engine-bay.


The local track is suppose to open this coming Thursday with a T&T. The National Weather Service says: "No, they ain't".
__________________
Original owner of a VE fueled 1993 W250 ClubCab.


Silencer ring MIA, str8 pipe with 10" exhaust tip, 250psi boost gauge, ghost-lights 'n truck-nutz. K&N air filter next (if my grades are good enoufh).

Last edited by BC847; 02-26-2018 at 05:52 PM.
 
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