studs in a 6.7?

[zstroken]

Towing duty primarily, 50 hp towing tune. Stock headbolts or stud it?

[apocalypse1812]

You should be fine without

[BluegrassDiesel]

Originally Posted by apocalypse1812

You should be fine without

Don't count on it.

[Backhoe man]

625's are cheap insurance, I did mine one by one with a a head gasket that was still good. I never had a problem, when I did pull the head the gasket looked great.

[Gibson]

My theory is better spend the little extra now than spend the little extra plus some later down the road. A set of h-11's for $5-700 now may save you the cost off all the other gaskets/seals, time and money to repair later on.

[BluegrassDiesel]

The 6.7s are just a ticking time bomb with any mods and the deletes done.

[rolncoal82]

Mine blew at 60,000 stock tune with delets, I studed it

[zstroken]

Originally Posted by Backhoe man

625's are cheap insurance, I did mine one by one with a a head gasket that was still good. I never had a problem, when I did pull the head the gasket looked great.

Why even 625 it? Just put the regular ARP's in.

[Big Swole]

I was thinking of just re-torquing my head bolts for my 2012...Just got my mini max and deletes...

But I have my 625's left over... I may just stick them in there to be safe...

My 07 came with 625's so I don't need to save my old set..might as well use them.....

[brucer]

Originally Posted by Backhoe man

625's are cheap insurance, I did mine one by one with a a head gasket that was still good. I never had a problem, when I did pull the head the gasket looked great.

Agreed. 625's aren't the cheapest thing going but it's a reasonable amount of work to put them in so IMO you might as well put in the best you can get. Only regret I have since putting mine in is that i should have put injectors in at the same time

[Gibson]

Im not sold on the 625's. For a one by one approach they are superior. But with the ability to have 2-3 extra threads holding in the block and PSI strength h-11's seem to be a winner for me. I belive h-11/625's are the same psi rating I belive.

[brucer]

Originally Posted by Gibson

Im not sold on the 625's. For a one by one approach they are superior. But with the ability to have 2-3 extra threads holding in the block and PSI strength h-11's seem to be a winner for me. I belive h-11/625's are the same psi rating I belive.

Pardon my ignorance but what do you mean by 2-3 extra threads holding in the block? ...I turned mine right down to the bottom and then rotated back 1/2 turn and marked them to ensure they didn't turn while I tightened them...and I did that a LOT of times by the time I got them all up to 160 lbs in 15 lb increments and then loosened and retightened each one back to 160 lbs 4 times each. ...makes me sore just thinking about it

[Gibson]

A-1's require bottom tapping each hole in the block. You get around 2-3 extra threads cut. The stud will not bottom out unless you do so. I habe used both a1 grades of studs as well as ARP's versions.

[BluegrassDiesel]

IMO the 625s are the best stud on the market. However, they are the most expensive. The H11s are also an excellent product, but I would give the edge to the 625. They have both been used in some extremely high HP applications with excellent results.

[BluegrassDiesel]

Originally Posted by Gibson

A-1's require bottom tapping each hole in the block. You get around 2-3 extra threads cut. The stud will not bottom out unless you do so. I habe used both a1 grades of studs as well as ARP's versions.

I recommend bottom tapping regardless of truck year or stud used.

[Gibson]

15lb increments? Good lord. I usually do 25, 75, 125, 165. Then go thru a couple heat cycles of operating to almost cool and then let sit till cool and torque to 160. Then 7-10 days later retorque to 160 and once more 7-10 days later.

[Gibson]

I belive H-11's are more superior due to more 'meat' in the block, less cost, and similar, if not the same psi ratings as 625's. All are great products tho. Wouldn't hesitate to put any of in my truck. Right now if you can get your hands on a set then that's what is superior, IMO.

[brucer]

Originally Posted by Gibson

15lb increments? Good lord. I usually do 25, 75, 125, 165. Then go thru a couple heat cycles of operating to almost cool and then let sit till cool and torque to 160. Then 7-10 days later retorque to 160 and once more 7-10 days later.

sorry I didn't explain. I did them one-by-one and did them all to 100 I think it was and then did them in 15 lb increments in sequence up to 160, then did the re-torque 4 times after that.

Yeah, makes sense I wasn't actually bottoming out - I guess i was just turning them as far as they would go and then back a 1/2 turn, then if they turned more than 1/4 turn while tightening I immediately loosened it, put more thread lubricant on and started again.

[Mopar Muscle]

Studs without a question. I helped one of the hot shot drivers that we use with his deletes. He was running a Black Maxx (highest hp tune for the cab and chassis is 75 hp). After 75-100k or so, he popped his head gasket. Stock everything minus the DPF and EGR delete and the Black Maxx added.

I've had my daily driver studded from almost day one of mods, and have been running strong. The 6.7 really needs a good set of ARP 2000's or 625's.

[kmkdiesel]

Originally Posted by brucer

sorry I didn't explain. I did them one-by-one and did them all to 100 I think it was and then did them in 15 lb increments in sequence up to 160, then did the re-torque 4 times after that.

Yeah, makes sense I wasn't actually bottoming out - I guess i was just turning them as far as they would go and then back a 1/2 turn, then if they turned more than 1/4 turn while tightening I immediately loosened it, put more thread lubricant on and started again.

that method as been flying around the internet and is wrong put them in finger tight and go from there, no need to back them out at all or even watch them if they move. I think people think if there bottomed out then torque could be applied to the bottom of the stud instead of the top where the nut is, but unless your threads are really really jacked up to over come the nut from going any tighter then the torque you are applying it wont happen. I also prefer the h-11's, I think arp just rapes you on the big name.