F250/Cummins Swap

No good pictures, but 3M Weld Thru 2 will ruin your entire GD weekend by spraying everything out under the nozzle rather than through it. So, I switched gears and permanently mounted the exhaust.
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How many miles do you have the swap? I plan to pickup a good ford and swap my current motor, I've seen some 08+ ford's on fb without a motor or a blown motor for 5-6k down in Texas. What's the weak points on these truck? And is there some years that are better to swap than others?
 
thatguy69 said:
How many miles do you have the swap? I plan to pickup a good ford and swap my current motor, I've seen some 08+ ford's on fb without a motor or a blown motor for 5-6k down in Texas. What's the weak points on these truck? And is there some years that are better to swap than others?
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if you take the engine out of the equasion, the next weakest piece is the trans. Other than that the trucks are tanks. I would select a 2010 model due to the fact they can be found with SYNC and nav, as well as are the last year without traction control. Also, 6.4 powered trucks are the cheapest due to the poor reliability of the engine. 11+ are too expensive and pre 05 have leaf front ends which ride terrible and have a wide turning radius.
 
I plan to use my 47re since I already am running the anteater. What's the best way to get all the idiot lights turned off once the swaps done?
 
thatguy69 said:
I plan to use my 47re since I already am running the anteater. What's the best way to get all the idiot lights turned off once the swaps done?
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Manual PCM from an 08 truck (or flash existing pcm to a manual flash), with custom tuning via MCC for whatever codes are remaining.
 
thatguy69 said:
How many miles do you have the swap? I plan to pickup a good ford and swap my current motor, I've seen some 08+ ford's on fb without a motor or a blown motor for 5-6k down in Texas. What's the weak points on these truck? And is there some years that are better to swap than others?
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I don't know about some better than others.
Mine had 203k when I pulled the engine.
I only made two repairs to the truck in 50k, I replaced the plugs and coils, and I replaced 3 calipers and one rotor.
TRW calipers are trash.

As far as the swap, I'm not sure how much I have left yet.

The manual trans flash is a good idea.
That would leave me needing a clutch input?

I have a small hurdle I've been working on. I got the 6.4 radiator in finally. I forgot the radiator support inserts. That took a bit to get my hands on. I got the radiator in with the shrouds and fan installed. The 6.0 fan was way too small. I ordered the fan from a ram.it arrived this morning.

I ended up using an 05 ram transmission mount. That required opening up the slots I had made in the crossmember again because the 05 studs are closer together than the 96. The transfer case clears the cab floor now.

I had also gotten 3" charge air pipes for a 6.4 from a kid at work. There is no way in hell to get the top one past the magnesium core support brace. I'm going to look into making something that clears appropriately.

I also cut a Ford trans range selector and had it welded to the 47re range selector lever. I will go into more detail when I know it works.
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Two other things:

I'm looking for the resevoir/battery tray. I'm going to go ahead and run a dual battery setup like a dodge and run the cables the same way.

I think running the trans cooler lines down the driver side pan rail like a dodge will clear the frame crossmember and be cleaner than most other options.

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I'm sitting here thinking through what I've had to do and will have to do.

Buy a blown 6.4 truck. Ive had to source the entire cooling pack and still need a trans cooler and AC condensor.


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The cold side pipe can fit. Take a sawzall to the rad support and cut it back to the steel behind it. I wish I had a pic saved of how I made mine fit...

Dillehay makes a coolant reservoir/battery tray in aluminum.
 
For trans cooler buy 2 remote mount derales or 1 of their big ones with fans and put them under the bed. My truck tows 85% of the time so im doing factory 6.0 cooler with a derale auxilary cooler under the bed with a fan just incase. But seen plenty running auxilary only

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Upgraded to the dodge fan. Re-engineered the dodge fan wiring and put it in the fan shroud. I'm thinking strongly about finding a 6 pole bulkhead connector to put in the shroud. I'm actively looking for the fitting from a 12 or 24 valve to tie the coolant resevoir in at the heater return and get rid of my nice powder coated piece.
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You'll need to anchor those wires pretty good, I've read where some have sucked those wires into the fan when it engaged.
Took that fitting out of mine during the conversion, probably in a box somewhere in the shop.
I'm sure "odieub" has some, sent him a PM
I've gotten a number of parts from him, he about 40 miles south of me.
 
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