any hamilton 12v head dyno results out there?

Pretty sure it was the bent pushrods, lol. I was holding 4k+ when they let go, another problem that has already been resolved.

jones95runner said:

I've got b decent motor you can put it on! Come on down tonight we'll try it out tomorrow :lolly:

Click to expand...

well jonesy you know me. i'd bring it down this weekend if you had a stock motor to dyno it on and then swap it and dyno again. i want zero changes made. just head swap on a mild built motor. stock cam, some 5x14s, hx35-hx50 and a decent pump should show up on a dyno with a head swap id think. if you wanna run it on the 3.0 and are serious about it im sure we can work something out.

I don't recall seeing a thread where a stock head and a ported head were compared on the dyno either. You'd probably need to have a connection with scheid or Haisleys to get info like that.

Haisleys head sure does flow. Seeing people say breaking the flanges. How does the haisley one hold up then? I'm just curious. I see a haisley competition head generally once a week if not more.

I'm still waiting on concrete info saying the hammy is the way. Until then I'm staying with the proven stuff.

I thought zach had comparison dyno sheets?

Pudge said:

Give me a few weeks. We ran the head one pass and had to pull it (bent some valves) and put the stock one back on. Stock head vs. hammy with some exhaust porting, same dyno we've been using. It will be interesting for sure.

Click to expand...

Where any of the valves seized?

shiftycapone said:

Any issues with the head being a little soft ( Rockwell wise)?

Click to expand...

Not that I know of.

Now when I got it there was a lot of loose "dust" and casting flakes in the head do we had it cleaned out real good. But when I pulled it off the other day to replace the bent valves an have the guides honed out And spring cups made bigger there was a lot of metallic sludge in te water jackets. Hopefully we just missed it when cleaning it the first go round.

when i pulled my head yesterday it had a bit of casting metal left on top of the gasket also.. it has been in the parts cleaner on at least 3 different times so there are obviously things that only running will get out..

RonA said:

I don't recall seeing a thread where a stock head and a ported head were compared on the dyno either. You'd probably need to have a connection with scheid or Haisleys to get info like that.

Click to expand...

I though at one time Haisley was supposed to test the head back to back on there dyno mule... I remember hammy said that way back when the head was getting tested. Did anyone ever hear more about This?

Im pretty sure Zach posted some info about the dyno runs on here somewhere. But I recall something changed during the comparison that kinda muddied the results a bit.

I have flow numbers for a hamilton head (valves 1.85/1.75) out of the box vs. a stock 12V head.
Intake ports/exhaust
hamilton_________________vs______________stock
.050-34.9/26.9---------------------------------------38/35
.100-62.4/54.7------------------------------------65.1/75.9
.150-83/82.9--------------------------------------89.3/93.2
.200-101/125------------------------------------112.4/111.1
.250-118.4/139.8---------------------------------138/130.4
.300-130.6/144----------------------------------156.1/145.6
.350-138.1/147----------------------------------178/160.1
.400-142.6/149----------------------------------200.1/175.8
.450-144.2/151----------------------------------215.6/185.3
.500-146.5/151.2--------------------------------223.4/189.7
.550-146.6/Na-----------------------------------240.9/192.2
.600- -241/196
.650- -243/198.5


I'll get a side by on a full done up 12V head vs. a hamilton to compare again. Both with oversize valves. Out of the box they flow better than most decently ported 12V heads. I'm still building my engine, and I have no dyno data yet.

So Zachs is on the right or the left?

Typo, sorry guys. Second try. intake/exhaust

stock_________________vs______________hamilton
.050-34.9/26.9---------------------------------------38/35
.100-62.4/54.7------------------------------------65.1/75.9
.150-83/82.9--------------------------------------89.3/93.2
.200-101/125------------------------------------112.4/111.1
.250-118.4/139.8---------------------------------138/130.4
.300-130.6/144----------------------------------156.1/145.6
.350-138.1/147----------------------------------178/160.1
.400-142.6/149----------------------------------200.1/175.8
.450-144.2/151----------------------------------215.6/185.3
.500-146.5/151.2--------------------------------223.4/189.7
.550-146.6/Na-----------------------------------240.9/192.2
.600-----------------------------------------------241/196
.650-----------------------------------------------243/198.5

we have seen 16-80hp on mild engine builds, and a lot more on big builds vs. extreme ported heads. I don't dare post dyno sheets, they will be called b.s.

If you are wondering if you need one, you probably don't. If the head is the thing you back from more power they will help a great deal.

If poor tuning, undersized turbos, maxed out turbos, incorrect injectors, incorrect timing, incorrect cam, or other poor combo choices are there, you will most likely not see the benefit you are after. If your problem is getting more air in the cylinder, then you will see a great deal of improvement. We have seen over 200hp on bigger builds. As far as machining, there is some shavings in the heads from manufacturing. These can be removed by compressed air after washing them. I will be sure to include that in the instructions. One of the mentioned "bent valves" was from installing the exhaust valve 1.750" on the intake and the intake 1.850" on the exhaust which put the valve into the cylinder wall. Also we have had two people gall valves, I do not know if that was an assembly issue or an issue with the chrome stem. I hope to only sell assembled heads in the future to fix assembly errors.


I will be sure to include that as well in the revised instructions. I apologize that I did not previously cover possible shavings, making sure the exhaust valves are in the exhaust port, and that the valves need to be pre-lubed before installation.

Kawi600, be sure to use a .058" headgasket.

Zach, did you ever record your flow results with the head setup with the valves in the bowl and the 30* intake work?
This is a weird build Im doing, trying to keep some low rpm power and economy. Might be putting a supercharger on it so I can keep the smoke down without so much lag. Think a 181/210 cam is good for that, or a 188/220?

Hamilton Cams said:

I apologize that I did not previously cove making sure the exhaust valves are in the exhaust port, and that the valves need to be pre-lubed before installation.

Kawi600, be sure to use a .058" headgasket.

Click to expand...

Make sure you add that you need to run diesel and not gasoline too LOL

I'm with you 100%

Kawi600, yes I did, but people have called B.S. on those so I will not be posting results. Suffice it to say the 30 degree intake gained 12-18 cfm in the .100" and .200" range wich is huge, but lost 10 cfm at .600". the cool thing is with a 188-220 0r a 181-210, you will never see over .520" so why worry about anything over that.

People constantly worry about how many CFM a head flows at .700" when their cam only lifts .500" for this reason, I am staying away from flow numbers and dyno numbers.

Also want to add that if you are limited on turbo size, out of fuel, maxed on programming, have incorrect turbos or injectors, or do not know how to tune that a cam will help very little as well.

Hamilton Cams said:

we have seen 16-80hp on mild engine builds, and a lot more on big builds vs. extreme ported heads. I don't dare post dyno sheets, they will be called b.s.

If you are wondering if you need one, you probably don't. If the head is the thing you back from more power they will help a great deal.

If poor tuning, undersized turbos, maxed out turbos, incorrect injectors, incorrect timing, incorrect cam, or other poor combo choices are there, you will most likely not see the benefit you are after. If your problem is getting more air in the cylinder, then you will see a great deal of improvement. We have seen over 200hp on bigger builds. As far as machining, there is some shavings in the heads from manufacturing. These can be removed by compressed air after washing them. I will be sure to include that in the instructions. One of the mentioned "bent valves" was from installing the exhaust valve 1.750" on the intake and the intake 1.850" on the exhaust which put the valve into the cylinder wall. Also we have had two people gall valves, I do not know if that was an assembly issue or an issue with the chrome stem. I hope to only sell assembled heads in the future to fix assembly errors.


I will be sure to include that as well in the revised instructions. I apologize that I did not previously cover possible shavings, making sure the exhaust valves are in the exhaust port, and that the valves need to be pre-lubed before installation.

Kawi600, be sure to use a .058" headgasket.

Click to expand...

On the head swap alone.....or a whole bunch of other chit was thrown into the mix as well?

madmikeismad said:

Make sure you add that you need to run diesel and not gasoline too LOL

Click to expand...

:hehe:

SCHOOL BUS said:

Where any of the valves seized?

Click to expand...

I actually talked to the machine shop today, every one of the exhaust valves was tighter than Dicks hat band.