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Old 10-30-2019, 09:05 AM   #1
Gasoline Sucks
 
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68rfe valve body upgrades

Iíve been doing some research but havenít really got a strait answer.

Long story short I bought a 2011 6.7 200k transfer case exploded at 70mph. Front drive shaft smashed all the fuel lines off the frame rail took out Shift linkage etc. Got a 273f cheap rebuilt it with dodge shafts etc. thatís all good.

Question The previous owner removed the pan as it was damaged and the trans shop removed the valve body. Is there any improvements I can make while the valve body is off? I saw something about an upgraded gasket and plate?

Truck is box stock now all Iíll do is deletes a tune and trans tune. Mostly run it in a tow tune anythingís better then stock. I have a compound setup in the 12v if I wanna go fast.

Any pointers to help reliability is appreciated. Not looking for a $1000 vb.
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Old 10-30-2019, 09:41 AM   #2
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BD makes a seal kit that greatly helps cross leak. I'd recommend that for like $120 or whatever it is. When that's installed, you can tell your tuner to turn the line pressure up past 175psi. The next component would be the pump needing upgrading but that's closer to 200psi.

I'd also recommend a new solenoid pack if it's already got 200k on it.

Definitely a deep pan for added fluid volume/cooling.

And I run PDD's trans fluid. I like it a lot.

I've been running basically this setup for a while and at 180k on it, it still doesn't miss a beat at ~400hp and commonly towing >10k. I've been surprised with this trans after seeing how many people dislike it in the performance world.
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Old 10-30-2019, 11:58 AM   #3
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I second the BD 68 Protect kit. You will need tuning for line pressure if you install their kit.

Add a deep pan.

Install a thermal valve eliminator, I got mine from RevMax.
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Old 10-30-2019, 01:02 PM   #4
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I second the BD 68 Protect kit. You will need tuning for line pressure if you install their kit.

Add a deep pan.

Install a thermal valve eliminator, I got mine from RevMax.
I don't think they got the thermal valve until 2013. My 2010 definitely didn't have one.

And you don't need tuning after installing the BD kit, but you do need tuning to take advantage of it!
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Old 10-30-2019, 01:49 PM   #5
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Great info. I’ll get one in order. Who’s tune do you recommend? I’ve been tuning with springs and a flat head. Trans tunes with a Allen key

I gotta get this thing on the road the stock head bolts on the 12v DD have put up with 80psi for 2 yrs. I want to bump the timing and install lift pump but I know it’s gonna lift the head.
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Old 10-31-2019, 03:04 PM   #6
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You don't need any pump mods to get 250+ psi. Just valve body mods. I don't recommend going over 225psi due to possible converter ballooning. BD Protect 68 kit, Trans-Go switch Valve and tuning will get you a long way.
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Old 11-01-2019, 09:28 AM   #7
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DNJ Billet Channel Plate! They need to vacuum check the valve body, if possible. The switch valves are an issue, but Transgo has a nice reamer kit to repair them. I would put Transgo HD2 shift kit and a DNJ plate for sure, throw some trans tuning on it and enjoy!
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Old 11-01-2019, 01:30 PM   #8
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Also, maybe good for reference, the 07.5-09 units didn't have a hard anodized VB which lead to degradation issues. 2010+ do have that.

And I looked it up, 2013+ has the thermal valve. That's why the solenoid pack changed again.

This is the site I buy all of my OEM 68RFE parts from. I've had good experiences with them and they are very knowledgeable on the phone.
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Old 11-01-2019, 01:32 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CorneliusRox View Post
Also, maybe good for reference, the 07.5-09 units didn't have a hard anodized VB which lead to degradation issues. 2010+ do have that.

And I looked it up, 2013+ has the thermal valve. That's why the solenoid pack changed again.

This is the site I buy all of my OEM 68RFE parts from. I've had good experiences with them and they are very knowledgeable on the phone.
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I have heard conflicting info on whether the anodizing has much value.
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Old 11-05-2019, 08:51 AM   #10
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Great info I’m looking around at the bd kit and transgo now. Got a buddy should be able to get a better deal through his shop.
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Old 11-05-2019, 09:25 AM   #11
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One of the main issues with 68 VB's is that they tend to develop cracks in the areas where the mounting bolts go through and they are not really visible to the naked eye. You can see it on a vb test machine. If your light on mileage you may be able o use yours again. I usually replace the VB in high mileage builds. They are a bit pricey but worth it. You do spend quite a bit in parts to build these thing up.

That DNJ piece is nice. Will be on the next one I build.
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Old 11-05-2019, 10:46 AM   #12
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Worst design in the 68vb is the location of the tcc and od channels being right next to each other and can rob pressure from the other. They've tried to resolve this with anodizing in the 2010+ and overbore ssv kits, but fact is the 68vb is just a crossleak waiting to happen.
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Old 11-07-2019, 09:13 AM   #13
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Definitely start with a new, anodized valve body, but don't trust the Mopar units, just because they're supposed to be remanufactured. They still don't flat sand them and vacuum check the switch valve. The video I saw about a cracked valve body was the channel plate, which the DNJ piece would solve. I've used some of the BD Protect kits. They've solved some Low Line Pressure codes, but I haven't seen them after being installed for 100k miles, to see if the gaskets hold up.
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Old 11-07-2019, 02:44 PM   #14
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Definitely start with a new, anodized valve body, but don't trust the Mopar units, just because they're supposed to be remanufactured. They still don't flat sand them and vacuum check the switch valve. The video I saw about a cracked valve body was the channel plate, which the DNJ piece would solve. I've used some of the BD Protect kits. They've solved some Low Line Pressure codes, but I haven't seen them after being installed for 100k miles, to see if the gaskets hold up.
The two things I don't like about the D&J ones: 1) They're not anodized and 6061T6 is some soft stuff, especially with 200psi fluid pushing through it 2) The price tag is pretty wild. This probably takes them around $30 in material, and a couple hours of machine time to make. If it was ~$300 and anodized, it'd be very attractive. Or 7075.
And man, when they talk about their 'validation', it really shows the lack of engineering that goes into this. "Let's validate this valve body by applying pressure to it in a way completely different than it would ever see in the real world! Then, let's plastically deform it and not even know when it hits yield." A real test would be to assemble it to a known good 68RFE valve body and pressurize until they see a certain flow rate or volume loss due to crossleak. Then take a stock one and do the same test. Then maybe a competitor (BD) and do the same. My assumption is there would be very little difference in usable pressure between the D&J vs the BD.
They'd also want to do cycle testing to prove it lasts any longer than stock.
That's just my !
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Old 11-08-2019, 10:31 AM   #15
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The two things I don't like about the D&J ones: 1) They're not anodized and 6061T6 is some soft stuff, especially with 200psi fluid pushing through it 2) The price tag is pretty wild. This probably takes them around $30 in material, and a couple hours of machine time to make. If it was ~$300 and anodized, it'd be very attractive. Or 7075.
And man, when they talk about their 'validation', it really shows the lack of engineering that goes into this. "Let's validate this valve body by applying pressure to it in a way completely different than it would ever see in the real world! Then, let's plastically deform it and not even know when it hits yield." A real test would be to assemble it to a known good 68RFE valve body and pressurize until they see a certain flow rate or volume loss due to crossleak. Then take a stock one and do the same test. Then maybe a competitor (BD) and do the same. My assumption is there would be very little difference in usable pressure between the D&J vs the BD.
They'd also want to do cycle testing to prove it lasts any longer than stock.
That's just my !

Have you used one? Not a knock on you. I was just curious on your experience with them. I always change out the VB's when I rebuild a 68RFE transmission from Dodge but I believe they are all rebuilds for the most part now. I have seen but have yet to use the Sonnax rebuilt units. They are updated with all their parts and seem to work.
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Old 11-08-2019, 12:22 PM   #16
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Have you used one? Not a knock on you. I was just curious on your experience with them. I always change out the VB's when I rebuild a 68RFE transmission from Dodge but I believe they are all rebuilds for the most part now. I have seen but have yet to use the Sonnax rebuilt units. They are updated with all their parts and seem to work.
I've got the BD kit. I haven't used the others, and I don't have a lot of experience rebuilding 68RFE's.
I have done a decent amount of design and validation work in my professional life though, and I was just saying that their described validation is really not applicable.

I bet the D&J ones work, I bet they work better than OEM at the time of install. I'd be curious to see long term performance.

You do have me curious about my valve body now though! Next time I drop the pan, I'll likely pull the VB and hit it with some dye pen to see if I can find cracks. I really haven't had any noticeable issues though.
Most of the reading I've done recommends swapping the solenoid pack out every 100k or so, but I've never seen anything about needed to swap the whole VB.
What's your experience with the solenoid pack? I decided not to spend the ~$300 on a new one since mine didn't seem to have any issues. Whenever I eventually run out of clutch material and have to open it up, I'll toss a new one in.
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Old 11-08-2019, 12:37 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by CorneliusRox View Post
The two things I don't like about the D&J ones: 1) They're not anodized and 6061T6 is some soft stuff, especially with 200psi fluid pushing through it 2) The price tag is pretty wild. This probably takes them around $30 in material, and a couple hours of machine time to make. If it was ~$300 and anodized, it'd be very attractive. Or 7075.
And man, when they talk about their 'validation', it really shows the lack of engineering that goes into this. "Let's validate this valve body by applying pressure to it in a way completely different than it would ever see in the real world! Then, let's plastically deform it and not even know when it hits yield." A real test would be to assemble it to a known good 68RFE valve body and pressurize until they see a certain flow rate or volume loss due to crossleak. Then take a stock one and do the same test. Then maybe a competitor (BD) and do the same. My assumption is there would be very little difference in usable pressure between the D&J vs the BD.
They'd also want to do cycle testing to prove it lasts any longer than stock.
That's just my !
Just to clarify... from my understanding its DNJ not D&J.
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Old 11-11-2019, 09:49 AM   #18
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Just to clarify... from my understanding its DNJ not D&J.
Oh man, you're right. I've been saying it wrong for years!
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Old 11-11-2019, 10:01 AM   #19
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I've used the BD kits, but do I think adding gaskets to a valve body is the best way? No. If you can get everything flat enough to seal without have a paper material that could fail, I'd rather have it that way. Also, it was DNJ testing the strength of the channel plates. That was just 2 guys that know their stuff and wanted to see how they compared in strength and flatness.
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Old 11-11-2019, 11:54 AM   #20
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I've used the BD kits, but do I think adding gaskets to a valve body is the best way? No. If you can get everything flat enough to seal without have a paper material that could fail, I'd rather have it that way.
X2, that's exactly how I feel about head gaskets. Get a 12V nice and flat, decent fasteners, torque it right, and they seem to last.
Start with a slightly warped head, good luck.


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It was DNJ testing the strength of the channel plates. That was just 2 guys that know their stuff and wanted to see how they compared in strength and flatness.
Sure, and I'm all for people doing real world testing to prove out their designs. I just didn't think it looped back to application at all.
They should just do some simple FEA, or add some bungs and pressurize to 300psi and measure leak or lack of vs stock.
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