95' Junker Drag Truck

I finally got the tranny torn down, no wonder it was hanging up in 2nd gear WOT and never making it to OD under light throttle input!

The pump gears, pump bushing, and pump seal were all damaged from torque converter fragments. A couple of the reverse clutches are in very poor condition. The overdrive piston is missing 25% of it's seal and a few of the OD clutches were worn down to metal.
 

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As you can see, the Over Drive clutches are toast! The piston's seal is toast as well. There is black sludge in every nook and cranny of this transmission. I wonder if I'll ever be able to get it entirely spotless!
 

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Instead of buying a shop press and special adapter to compress the 820# direct clutch spring, I spend $12 at the hardware store on 3/8" all thread, nuts and washers. I was surprised how easy it was to compress the assembly, probably could get by just fine with a single small washer and one layer of 1/2" plywood.

The direct clutch pack looked to be in great shape.
 

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The front band and low/reverse band both looked to be in great shape.
 

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Big Blue24 said:
Instead of buying a shop press and special adapter to compress the 820# direct clutch spring, I spend $12 at the hardware store on 3/8" all thread, nuts and washers. I was surprised how easy it was to compress the assembly, probably could get by just fine with a single small washer and one layer of 1/2" plywood.

The direct clutch pack looked to be in great shape.
Click to expand...

time to get rid of the flux core wire for some finer welds.:poke:. are going all out on the trans or just putting minor stuff back in?

Joe
 
Moderate rebuild, can't afford billet input, billet flex, billet multi friction converter, upgraded clutch packs, billet front drum, steel planetaries, etc.

The plan is to run stock friction count on all clutch packs with increased hydraulic pressure, Transgo TFOD HD-2, billet apply lever, billet strut, billet anchor, upgraded 2nd servo cover, cast aluminum accumulator in lieu of stock plastic.

I'm debating reusing the hurt stock converter or possibly buying a cheap $400 dollar billet single disk converter from an outfit in California.

I plan to run "upgraded" fluid in the transmission that has higher viscosity, higher coefficient of friction, better lubrication for hard parts, increased heat and pressure capability and cost $12 per gallon............

I still need to carefully examine the pump and see if the hard parts need to be replaced. A new pump assembly is $$$ so I might try my luck with the hurt converter so I don't wipe out a good converter in my experimentation.


It's fun having a small budget, sometimes you get to pull the transmission 3-4 times instead of doing it right the first time.
 
I'd say the converter would be some good place to actually spend some money....Maybe someone has a used one for sale?
 
Problem with a good converter is it will surely wipe out the stock input shaft doing locked shifts at the track. Whereas a mediocre single friction aftermarket converter will probably slip a little before the input breaks.

Eventually when this beast is built how I want it, it will surely need a top of the line converter and a good billet one-piece input.

I agree, a used converter would probably be my best route, just got to find the right used converter.
 
Big Blue24 said:
Problem with a good converter is it will surely wipe out the stock input shaft doing locked shifts at the track. Whereas a mediocre single friction aftermarket converter will probably slip a little before the input breaks.

Eventually when this beast is built how I want it, it will surely need a top of the line converter and a good billet one-piece input.

I agree, a used converter would probably be my best route, just got to find the right used converter.
Click to expand...

Or, get a good, tight converter, and don't lock it up??

Just another idea...probably not the best, but your input shaft is safe for sure that way!

Chris
 
Big Blue24 said:
Moderate rebuild, can't afford billet input, billet flex, billet multi friction converter, upgraded clutch packs, billet front drum, steel planetaries, etc.

The plan is to run stock friction count on all clutch packs with increased hydraulic pressure, Transgo TFOD HD-2, billet apply lever, billet strut, billet anchor, upgraded 2nd servo cover, cast aluminum accumulator in lieu of stock plastic.

I'm debating reusing the hurt stock converter or possibly buying a cheap $400 dollar billet single disk converter from an outfit in California.

I plan to run "upgraded" fluid in the transmission that has higher viscosity, higher coefficient of friction, better lubrication for hard parts, increased heat and pressure capability and cost $12 per gallon............

I still need to carefully examine the pump and see if the hard parts need to be replaced. A new pump assembly is $$$ so I might try my luck with the hurt converter so I don't wipe out a good converter in my experimentation.


It's fun having a small budget, sometimes you get to pull the transmission 3-4 times instead of doing it right the first time.
Click to expand...

What vendor are you planning to use for all the rebuild parts? I'll be tearing into the 47RH in my `95 4x4 very shortly so I really appreciate the pics you're taking!

Keep up the good work!
 
wow i cant belive you guys find trucks this cheap. this is a cool project. it looks like you know what ur doing for sure i would be lost with thetrans
 
srt cummins said:
wow i cant belive you guys find trucks this cheap. this is a cool project. it looks like you know what ur doing for sure i would be lost with thetrans
Click to expand...

In the first post he mentioned he looked for it for over a year. i agree thats its hard but you just have to be patient.

It took me 4 months to find mine. picked it up for 2200 bucks 4x4 manual.
 
Yeah, I did look for a long time to find the right truck for the right price. Glad I didn't settle and get a 5spd manual, extra cab, or 4x4!


I'm so cheap that I buy my parts from everywhere. If I can save a dollar, I will split up the order between two or three vendors. Obviously you've got to be careful with shady shops and or shipping fees. Don't want to spend an extra $10 on shipping to save $2 on a part.

I bought my stock rebuilt kit from ct-powertrain on Ebay. I've haven't found the best price for billet lever, anchor, and strut, still waiting of a few price quotes.
 
im going with a revmax billet single and there vb all for 750$ , got another 47rh that ill use for a converter core and vb so just in case ill have a backup, also getting the input cryoed
 
Rods said:
im going with a revmax billet single and there vb all for 750$ , got another 47rh that ill use for a converter core and vb so just in case ill have a backup, also getting the input cryoed
Click to expand...


How much to get the input cryo'd? And stock input or billet?

I looked at the revmax but didn't want to pay the core charge since it's possible that after I ship them my broken converter they will "reject" it and still hit me up with a core charge.
 
Big Blue24 said:
I looked at the revmax but didn't want to pay the core charge since it's possible that after I ship them my broken converter they will "reject" it and still hit me up with a core charge.
Click to expand...

If they're doing converter work they should be able to fix it.
 
dunno yet on $ for cryo it will b stock i had injector tips done and it cost 12$ so i figure 25$ or so
 
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