DTA466 turbo sizing options?

6

6.9poweredscout

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Not sure is this is the right forum, move accordingly.

Building up a 1988 DTA466 for my IH travelette, the MW pump has been juiced up 75% over stock, injectors opened and pressure matched. I haven't planned on any valve spring or pushrod modifications unless someone thinks it'd be a good idea. Not building a drag truck or hardcore puller, aiming for 500 hp daily driver/tow rig and take it to the local pulls. Now I've tried Garrett's turbo calculator but could never really figure it out, I'm completely fine with paying for a brand new ball bearing turbo so I can sleep at night knowing its new. I had a mild built 7.3 psd and that thing ate turbos like crazy (used low miles and rebuilt ones. Don't want to go through that again). Now with what I have done to it has anyone played with building up a 466 or similar diesel, what recommendations do you have? I don't want to run twins, hoping I can find one big enough to light quick and waste gate it so I don't over spool it and I don't want it smoking like a freight train. Thanks for taking time to read this guys!
 
This sounds like one hell of a neat project. Don't see too many people driving hopped up DT466s. Do you know how much fuel your MW puts out or what size the injectors are now? It won't take a lot of fuel to make 500hp out of a DT466.

I would start out with the S400 turbos. I'd guess something smaller than 3" on the intake with a 1.00 A/R or so would work out well. T4 flange would probably be enough.

BTW it doesn't take much to swap the MW for a P-pump.
 
unfortunately I didn't get any specs, the builder said the injectors were opened and matched and the MW moves 75% more fuel than stock. it's a start, thanks! I know it is, but it was looking it was in the range of $3000 to get a P-pump, adaptor and line, the builder said the P-pumps aren't as reliable as the MW and rotary anyway, so to have the MW rebuilt and tweaked was a lot cheaper.
 
I hope you plan on pulling the open classes. A 466CI engine is illegal in most classes. Also your turbo size is usually limited which I see as a restriction for you.

Good luck.
 
I'm curious what builder in their right mind would say a p-pump is unreliable. I would seriously concider not using that builder then.
 
DISTURBED said:
I'm curious what builder in their right mind would say a p-pump is unreliable. I would seriously concider not using that builder then.
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I was thinking the same thing. I mean...how many tractor pullers and truck pullers use P-pumps?

Also can't help but think that a P-pump swap doesn't cost 3k, but I don't know the going rate on a p-pump. The MW adapter and maybe the lines will work.
 
i'm not a pump builder so I don't know, he said they crack and a weaker. he said he'd do what he could with what I had. it was at least $1800 for an unknown condition P pump plus about $1000 for the adaptor plate and gear. if it doesn't do what I want i'll sell it and try a P pump. All I'm worried about is getting a turbo that will boost quick, and not smoke like a freight train.

i'm not looking to do professional pulling, just at the local firs to show them how a old harvester could keep up with the new rigs. no idea on the timing... haven't got that far yet.
 
i want to build a dt466 hauler in a med duty crewbcab truck to haul my toyhauler and the family boat around (42' hauler, 32' cabin cruiser)
but i want 600+ and twins.

(just my own little pipe dream)
 
cetanefreek said:
I see good p-pumps going for $1000-$1300 on a regular basis. Are MW pumps static or dynamic timing?
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Far as I know, the MW is static timing only (like a P-pump). I think some pulling orgs have an MW class. I know I've seen A-Pump classes. I don't really know how much of a disadvantage either of them is compared to a p-pump...some of these things flat out fly.

i want to build a dt466 hauler in a med duty crewbcab truck to haul my toyhauler and the family boat around (42' hauler, 32' cabin cruiser)
but i want 600+ and twins.

(just my own little pipe dream)
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I bet you could do it with the right set of twins and a good intercooler. I'm sure there are 466ci Hot Farm tractors out there making that with a big single and no IC. Twins and cool air should make the same power with sane EGTs.

If you get bored, shove in some big bore sleeves and run 540ci. If you get really bored, get the crank ground and build a 640ci. It's only money...
 
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No Sparkplugs said:
Far as I know, the MW is static timing only (like a P-pump). I think some pulling orgs have an MW class. I know I've seen A-Pump classes. I don't really know how much of a disadvantage either of them is compared to a p-pump...some of these things flat out fly.



I bet you could do it with the right set of twins and a good intercooler. I'm sure there are 466ci Hot Farm tractors out there making that with a big single and no IC. Twins and cool air should make the same power with sane EGTs.

If you get bored, shove in some big bore sleeves and run 540ci. If you get really bored, get the crank ground and build a 640ci. It's only money...
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that i dont have lol
 
6.9poweredscout said:
So.... Any tips on figuring out a good way to size up a turbo?
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There are calculators out there that will help, but you need to know:

1) how much power you want to make
2) max RPM and cruise RPM
3) how much boost you want to make

Your power goals will help determine how much boost you need. RPM helps determine how much air the turbo must flow, and boost determines the pressure ratio.

looking at the compressor maps, you want something that will EFFICIENTLY flow enough air at the right pressure ratio.

then, you need to make sure that turbo comes with a housing small enough that it will spool worth a crap.
 
Goal is 500 hp, max rpm, I think they set it around 3400 rpm, cruise.... No idea I'm going to have either 33s or 35s with overdrive and 3.55 rear end ratio. I'd like to make whatever boost will get me to 500 and not smoke like a freight train. I've tried those calculators but they're so vague and hard to use I gave up. I was hoping someone might have done something similar and could help me figure out what I need.
 
Looks like 3.55 gears and 33" tires put you at 1800rpm at 65mph, which should make the engine pretty happy.

I didn't want to recommend a Garret GT4202 as I figured that would be too big, but the turbo calculator says it should work well and the exhaust housing isn't huge, so it should spool decently well.

The calculator says you need 70lb/min of air at 3400rpm and about half that at 1800rpm, and both of those fall right into the efficiency range of the GT4202.

I know from experience that a GT4202 on a DT466 will make more than enough boost and flow enough air to do what you want it to do. We ran it as a superfarm charger and made 70# of boost with a ton of fuel (and a ton of smoke LOL).

You aren't putting much fuel through it and it flows a lot of air, so you should never have a problem with smoke. If you ever want more power, just turn up the fuel. 650cc of fuel is FUN.
 
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I thought the compressor map looked odd. The map that looked 'perfect' was a GT4202 with 0.60 AR. The one we ran was a GT4202 1.14 AR which I can't find a map for, but I bet it's quite a bit different.

the .60 AR unit ought to spool like RIGHT NOW on a DT466.
 
Thank you so much for the help, this is what I needed to know, especially with someone have some experience with it. I at least wanted a baseline. Do you have a link of the map you came up with? And is that a ball bearing turbo? I don't mind paying more for one I hear lots of good things about the ball bearing setups. Still a long way from hearing the engine run again but this is one step closer.
 
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