zfaylor
Comp Diesel Sponsor
I am really unsure of where to put this. It applies to 89-02 mechanical trucks so this is a fairly universal area. I won a stage 1 afc live from Power Driven diesel. I received it last monday and installed it instantly. Went out with my go pro and gave it my best shot at messing with this contraption.
Truck it is going on:
95 single cab short bed
47rh with a mild home build on it. DPC triple disc, billet input, full manual transgo kit, and some other odds and ends.
180 pump
4ks
7x11 injectors from power driven diesel
s464
studs
stock 375k mile engine that came in the truck
First and foremost: quality product! The box itself feels like it could live through a nuclear attack. Very sturdy and compact packaging.
A word to the wise: be aware the response knob is very touchy. It can make your truck a turd in a hurry :hehe:
Here is how it looks out of the plastic shipping container. The flat rate box must have been wishful thinking for packaging LOL
Here it is in all of its glory unboxed
All I had to remove was my intake horn
And my afc housing
Remove your fuel plate from the pump as well.
Then you need to disassemble the afc housing to modify it per the instructions. There is no need to remove the afc foot.
reverse the position of the two washers on each side of the afc diaphragm.
Adjust the "smoke screw" as most call it. It controls pre boost fueling. The directions state 1/4 turn past contact for heavily modified trucks and 2 turns IIRC for stock trucks. I went 1/2 turn. My truck isn't highly modified but the turd of a turbo I have doesn't need a ton of pre boost fuel making a mess of the road.
This is where mine ended up:
remove the plug on top of the starwheel and adjust it so the starwheel lines up with the edge of the hole per the instructions. the plug can be a pain to get out the first time. I used my porter cable 20v impact with a 8mm allen on it and they come out every time.
Remove the stock afc reference fitting. My boost gauge was plumbed into the hole where the stock turbo got wastegate reference. I had to move that to another spot on the head as my boost gauge would be off. It would read the boost the afc live tells the afc.
I reassembled the afc with the provided 1/8npt to 1/4 tubing fitting into the afc and moved to mounting the afc live box. i decided to place mine on the panel in front of my shifter. It is out of the way and in a convenient location still. I am sure there will be 100 different places people choose to place their box. This just happened to be my place.
Route your tubing through the fire wall and install the other provided 1/8 npt to 1/4 tube fitting in the head where the old afc reference line was form the factory.
Route your tubing and cut it to length. Push the tubing into the fittings. Make sure to put the tube marked with the black tape on the head and the other on the afc per the instructions. Zip tie the tubing out of the way and re install the intake horn. You end up with a clean install that doesn't clutter the engine bay. My engine bay is cluttered with plenty of other wiring and tubing already so do not mind that LOL
Now on to the fun part: driving!
I mounted the go pro on the back glass so you can get a visual of the smoke out of the stack.
Video of me driving the truck with ZERO tuning and what I would consider normal driving and acceleration.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLPriyokZaY
Here is a video of me trying to mess with the max fuel knob while under boost to see what it does. I make a few pulls towards the end of the video and you can see the smoke gradually clearing up under boost. This is the technique I used to get a baseline for where to set that. I adjusted the knob out until The smoke was a heavy haze under boost. I adjusted it more later after I watched playback on my go pro and saw what the truck was doing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQ1DGczH2Fk
Then i learned real quick that the response knob is sensitive and adjusting it more than a turn on my truck made it a complete turd. I ended up at 1/4 turn in for my best results. Most of my tuning was done on the max fueling knob. I am sure this differs from truck to truck and experiences will vary.
Truck it is going on:
95 single cab short bed
47rh with a mild home build on it. DPC triple disc, billet input, full manual transgo kit, and some other odds and ends.
180 pump
4ks
7x11 injectors from power driven diesel
s464
studs
stock 375k mile engine that came in the truck
First and foremost: quality product! The box itself feels like it could live through a nuclear attack. Very sturdy and compact packaging.
A word to the wise: be aware the response knob is very touchy. It can make your truck a turd in a hurry :hehe:
Here is how it looks out of the plastic shipping container. The flat rate box must have been wishful thinking for packaging LOL
Here it is in all of its glory unboxed
All I had to remove was my intake horn
And my afc housing
Remove your fuel plate from the pump as well.
Then you need to disassemble the afc housing to modify it per the instructions. There is no need to remove the afc foot.
reverse the position of the two washers on each side of the afc diaphragm.
Adjust the "smoke screw" as most call it. It controls pre boost fueling. The directions state 1/4 turn past contact for heavily modified trucks and 2 turns IIRC for stock trucks. I went 1/2 turn. My truck isn't highly modified but the turd of a turbo I have doesn't need a ton of pre boost fuel making a mess of the road.
This is where mine ended up:
remove the plug on top of the starwheel and adjust it so the starwheel lines up with the edge of the hole per the instructions. the plug can be a pain to get out the first time. I used my porter cable 20v impact with a 8mm allen on it and they come out every time.
Remove the stock afc reference fitting. My boost gauge was plumbed into the hole where the stock turbo got wastegate reference. I had to move that to another spot on the head as my boost gauge would be off. It would read the boost the afc live tells the afc.
I reassembled the afc with the provided 1/8npt to 1/4 tubing fitting into the afc and moved to mounting the afc live box. i decided to place mine on the panel in front of my shifter. It is out of the way and in a convenient location still. I am sure there will be 100 different places people choose to place their box. This just happened to be my place.
Route your tubing through the fire wall and install the other provided 1/8 npt to 1/4 tube fitting in the head where the old afc reference line was form the factory.
Route your tubing and cut it to length. Push the tubing into the fittings. Make sure to put the tube marked with the black tape on the head and the other on the afc per the instructions. Zip tie the tubing out of the way and re install the intake horn. You end up with a clean install that doesn't clutter the engine bay. My engine bay is cluttered with plenty of other wiring and tubing already so do not mind that LOL
Now on to the fun part: driving!
I mounted the go pro on the back glass so you can get a visual of the smoke out of the stack.
Video of me driving the truck with ZERO tuning and what I would consider normal driving and acceleration.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLPriyokZaY
Here is a video of me trying to mess with the max fuel knob while under boost to see what it does. I make a few pulls towards the end of the video and you can see the smoke gradually clearing up under boost. This is the technique I used to get a baseline for where to set that. I adjusted the knob out until The smoke was a heavy haze under boost. I adjusted it more later after I watched playback on my go pro and saw what the truck was doing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQ1DGczH2Fk
Then i learned real quick that the response knob is sensitive and adjusting it more than a turn on my truck made it a complete turd. I ended up at 1/4 turn in for my best results. Most of my tuning was done on the max fueling knob. I am sure this differs from truck to truck and experiences will vary.
