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Old 09-07-2017, 05:43 PM   #1
jhastings
 
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First start/break in questions

I'm getting ready to start this motor for the first time and break it in, but had a couple questions. For background this motor has a medium lift cam and 60# valve springs (150# nose pressure).

Was planning on using SAE30 Brad Penn. Will this work?

To start, I was thinking of just cranking with injector lines cracked until good oil pressure.

Once started run at 2k rpm for 20 min?

After that let cool and retourque studs?

Thanks


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1998 2500 12V SLT QCLB 5-speed 4X4 3.54, LSD F+R, hx-35/14wg, DDP2, 4" pipe,841 Pump, 17.5*, #10 full back, 3K GSK, 191's, Cam, 13 " Con-O 241HD, 14mm Studs, Rings, Copper gskt, 60#springs, KDP jig, 4" pacbrake, Gauges, Valet, Mag Hytecs, 2low, B&W, 203K.
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Old 09-07-2017, 05:44 PM   #2
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Click the image to open in full size.

This is what I was going to use. How long before I change this initial oil?
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1998 2500 12V SLT QCLB 5-speed 4X4 3.54, LSD F+R, hx-35/14wg, DDP2, 4" pipe,841 Pump, 17.5*, #10 full back, 3K GSK, 191's, Cam, 13 " Con-O 241HD, 14mm Studs, Rings, Copper gskt, 60#springs, KDP jig, 4" pacbrake, Gauges, Valet, Mag Hytecs, 2low, B&W, 203K.
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Old 09-07-2017, 05:46 PM   #3
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Every thing sounds good other than a zinc oil additive, esp for the new cam and heavy springs. Lucas break in additive has worked fine for me, or at the least add two bottles of STP, it has zddp.
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Old 09-07-2017, 05:48 PM   #4
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Dont let it idle and get it to crank and run as quick as possible. Dont just hold it at 2000rpm, kinda roll it and keep it around 2000.
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Old 09-07-2017, 05:50 PM   #5
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I just saw the pic, see it's break in oil. You got it covered
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Old 09-07-2017, 05:52 PM   #6
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I've wiped a lobe before on a new cam years ago, I get touchy on that subject.
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Old 09-07-2017, 06:51 PM   #7
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Sounds good. Change the oil shortly there after or drive it for a few thousand miles with this oil?


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1998 2500 12V SLT QCLB 5-speed 4X4 3.54, LSD F+R, hx-35/14wg, DDP2, 4" pipe,841 Pump, 17.5*, #10 full back, 3K GSK, 191's, Cam, 13 " Con-O 241HD, 14mm Studs, Rings, Copper gskt, 60#springs, KDP jig, 4" pacbrake, Gauges, Valet, Mag Hytecs, 2low, B&W, 203K.
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Old 09-07-2017, 06:51 PM   #8
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Also I assembled everything with "DRIVEN" assembly lube


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1998 2500 12V SLT QCLB 5-speed 4X4 3.54, LSD F+R, hx-35/14wg, DDP2, 4" pipe,841 Pump, 17.5*, #10 full back, 3K GSK, 191's, Cam, 13 " Con-O 241HD, 14mm Studs, Rings, Copper gskt, 60#springs, KDP jig, 4" pacbrake, Gauges, Valet, Mag Hytecs, 2low, B&W, 203K.
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Old 09-07-2017, 07:54 PM   #9
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I'd change it after a couple good drives and heat cycles. Keep up with a high zinc oil or an additive after.
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Old 09-08-2017, 12:52 AM   #10
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I just started mine a couple weeks ago and I used The Driven assembly grease for assembly as well. I also purchased 15w40 break in oil from driven along with 2 bottles of Hamilton cams zink additive and a bottle of Lucas break in zink additive. According to Lucas one bottle of zinc additive treats 4-4.5 quarts of oil so you need 3 of them. I prefilled the oil filter and we pressure lubed about 6 quarts into the engine and dumped the rest in. With pressure tank hooked up and injection harness unplugged we turned it over till oil came out the rockers. Then we unhooked the tank and fired it up bringing the engine rpm up to 1300-1500 immediately for 5min(Hamilton Cams Cam break in procedure). Then adjusted valve lash after engine cooled down. Then went out and beat the piss out of it.

My first oil change I did at 500 miles with rotella T6(had some in the garage) and 3 bottles of Lucas zinc additive. I plan on switching to Brad Penn after I change the oil at 1500miles and continue with the zinc additive treatment.
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Old 09-08-2017, 06:01 AM   #11
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I ran 30w for break-in with some gas motor years ago. no issues with it one way or the other.
Ive always used 1 bottle of the lucas break in stuff with an oil change. Havent wiped a cam lobe like I did on the last cam when I forgot the stuff, even with synthetic oil.
Anyone think thats trouble waiting to happen? hamilton's 181/210 cam with 110lb springs.
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Old 09-11-2017, 11:40 AM   #12
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How can I go about pre oiling prior to start?


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Old 09-11-2017, 06:11 PM   #13
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I did it using an old fire extinguisher filled with oil and was pressurized. IIRC we hooked it up to one of the oil filter ports. I'm sure that there are other easier ways though.
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Old 09-11-2017, 11:05 PM   #14
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My buddies tank he had is a old propane tank with a bung welded in the side of it with a plug that has a valve stem in it. Remove plug to put the oil in, put the plug back in. Hook the feed hose to an oil galley or top of the filter housing, pressurize it, then open the tank valve. Takes a bit but it's the best way to know the oil galleys, oil pump, and bearings have oil to them.
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Old 09-19-2017, 12:38 AM   #15
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Cool, good suggestions. I am first going to try a cheap drill pump I have laying around hooked to the 1/8 npt port on the oil filter housing and see if it builds enough pressure to get oil to the top of the motor. If it doesn't work I'll look at other methods


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Old 09-29-2017, 12:48 AM   #16
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Started the motor today. Took about 5 5 sec cranks to get oil up to the rockers them I started it. Wife Ran it for 15 min 1500-2000 rpm while chased down fuel leaks etc.

What's the latest on stud retorque? Let cool and Break each but loose, re lube and torque right back to 125? I have arp 425s.

Thanks


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1998 2500 12V SLT QCLB 5-speed 4X4 3.54, LSD F+R, hx-35/14wg, DDP2, 4" pipe,841 Pump, 17.5*, #10 full back, 3K GSK, 191's, Cam, 13 " Con-O 241HD, 14mm Studs, Rings, Copper gskt, 60#springs, KDP jig, 4" pacbrake, Gauges, Valet, Mag Hytecs, 2low, B&W, 203K.
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Old 09-29-2017, 05:08 AM   #17
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Everyone has there own ritual on torquing headstuds but According to ARP a retorque is not necessary if you used arp lube on the stud, nut and washer. I have never done a "Hot" retorque and have never had an issue. I could see Doing a retorque if you have fire rings to help crush the rings. I have 2k miles on my std 6.7 headgasket with ARP 625s torqued to 155ftlbs and haven't had an issue as of yet. But I'm only pushing 62lbs max boost pressure. Most guys do a hot retorque but either way If you do decide to retorque them make sure you check valve lash again afterwards.
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