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Old 03-15-2017, 08:59 PM   #61
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If you're planning on keeping this I'd find a repair/service manual it would be well worth the money and will have all the specs you need.
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Old 03-15-2017, 09:12 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by RDPsmoker View Post
If you're planning on keeping this I'd find a repair/service manual it would be well worth the money and will have all the specs you need.
Seams I need to make a call to mamu
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Old 03-15-2017, 09:56 PM   #63
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And would really help with any work you do as it should make it step by step and list torque specs along the way.
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Old 03-16-2017, 06:58 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malibu795 View Post
Pump plate info.. no clue how to read that.. 160/180/215????l
Click the image to open in full size.
Engine serial number is 44843226
Component part # s01-22436-000
275HP@1800rpm
11° timing

Is That enough info to figure out compression ratio, injector size? In frame options?

Once batteries where charged. Engine fires extremely quickly in 25° temp. no cold weather starting aid, does have block heater.. it work? IDK... wasn't used.

Logical reasoning... quick fire in cold weather means compression is good and fuel system is good.. throttle response is rather quick too....do plan on pulling injectors and doing a compression test.. what's spec?

The adapter from front cover to air compressor is broken.
Low coolant light is on.. haven't done system pressure test yet..Will be done prior to pulling the engine..

Oil looks recently changed. Does ~70psi at idle cold. What's spec?
Should be a data plate on the turbo right?

What's cooling system capacity and oil system capacity? Be good info to have when I go to drain them.
Give Mumau the serial number and he can find you whatever parts you want. If you're going to swap everything, there's no way I could only do an inframe, I'd overhaul it right.


But, with the way it sounds like it runs now, I'd run it personally. 70psi and fires right up in this weather, seems pretty good to me.

Chris
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Old 03-16-2017, 10:08 AM   #65
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Sent numbers to dan@ Columbus diesel..
Pump is a 12mm ~174kW/260hp delivery valves and caps are choke point ~$1500 to install/replaced DV and caps along with a GSK for 2400-2500rpm fuel limit.
Could open up injectors but not needed. To reach 450-500 range.. have more than need fuel and cut it back is the plan..

Found the adapter from timing cover to air compressor is broken. $190 from fyda Columbus was the quote.
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Old 03-16-2017, 11:31 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97rada View Post
Let me know, I might be interested in a truck like that. Using the cooling package as well?
Inspected the radiator on the fl70 ~50% of the fins on rear side and ~25% of the fins on the front are gone.. so that's scrap..
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Old 03-16-2017, 11:46 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malibu795 View Post
Inspected the radiator on the fl70 ~50% of the fins on rear side and ~25% of the fins on the front are gone.. so that's scrap..


Leaving all those parts with the fl70? Also if you need help building the engine I am very close to you and can help whenever.
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Old 03-16-2017, 12:27 PM   #68
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Leaving all those parts with the fl70? Also if you need help building the engine I am very close to you and can help whenever.
2nd set of hands are always welcome, Having someone with more experience with MD stuff would be appreciated, where are you located at?

I can leave stuff I don't use with the truck..

Called scheid, ask about what they got available. Told the guy basic build idea.. and RPM range I plan on running
He is was leaning towards a s364 billet wheel vs s362

Apparently ARP has head studs out for 8.3, I plan on put a pacbrake on the truck which will require valve springs on the exhaust side, so why not put new ones on the intake side.. I won't have to worry about floating valves with boost pressure.
Also asked about a camshaft options. So he is getting a wish list together

Rather know the options are out there and not do them vs not ask and never know.
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Old 03-16-2017, 02:13 PM   #69
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I run a VP24v, I know cubes aren't the same, but I run an S360 Extened tip, with a 68/14 housing. Equivalent of 4.10 gears, and it works EXTREMELY well, so I'd say the 364 wheel would be pretty close on an 8.3L.


I think I have an inline US Gear Decelerator exhaust brake, might be 4". They have a "wastegate" on them to hold constant back pressure....If you might be interested in it.

Chris
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Old 03-16-2017, 02:40 PM   #70
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8.3 cummins 500cid at 2500rpm and 200%VE =725cfm
6.6 duramax 403cid at 3500rpm and 200%VE = 816cfm
CFM*.069=lbMN
CID*RPM*VE/3456=CFM

723*.069=49lbmn
816*.069=56lbmn

300% be or essentially 3:1 pr
500cid is 1080cfm/75lbmn
403cid is 1224cfm/81lbmin

The GT4088R is what I currently have on my dmax.. and a s362sxe I'm told flows more than the GT4088R which is a 63.5
On paper the is Question run a 364 and lose low-end response or 362 and risk overspending at the top end?
Can the AFC be adjusted to pull fuel above X psi?
Or setup an external WG with a 362..
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Last edited by malibu795; 03-16-2017 at 02:42 PM.
 
Old 03-16-2017, 02:58 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malibu795 View Post
8.3 cummins 500cid at 2500rpm and 200%VE =725cfm
6.6 duramax 403cid at 3500rpm and 200%VE = 816cfm
CFM*.069=lbMN
CID*RPM*VE/3456=CFM

723*.069=49lbmn
816*.069=56lbmn

300% be or essentially 3:1 pr
500cid is 1080cfm/75lbmn
403cid is 1224cfm/81lbmin

The GT4088R is what I currently have on my dmax.. and a s362sxe I'm told flows more than the GT4088R which is a 63.5
On paper the is Question run a 364 and lose low-end response or 362 and risk overspending at the top end?
Can the AFC be adjusted to pull fuel above X psi?
Or setup an external WG with a 362..
Set it up for Bottom end and cruise speed, wastegate the top end, I would really doubt you will be having to pull hills at 2500RPM with 505 cubes anyway.

AFC setup is backwards in operation from what you want, but I'd have to think of a way to cut fuel back with boost....I know you could wire in a Valet switch to kill AFC signal once a pressure switch is hit, but that would be almost instant once you hit that pressure limit.

On a 5.9L at 400hp with full AFC travel, killing AFC with a valet switch dropped about 140-150hp...depending on injectors, I would imagine the difference would be similar with the bigger engine, as fuel is fuel out of 12mm plungers to a point. Injectors could change that some.

My S360 is wastegated at 38psi, I don't see any reason pushing farther than that, and I'm pushing the little 5.9 to up around 425hp in that big chassis....F1 Mach 4's and an Edge EZ, should be in that ballpark at the wheels in a pickup....


IMHO,
Chris
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Old 03-16-2017, 02:59 PM   #72
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Why do you need an external gate? Can't get a internal dual port gate?

Chris
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Old 03-16-2017, 03:44 PM   #73
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Why do you need an external gate? Can't get a internal dual port gate?

Chris
While I'd like an internal gate, for plumbing/simplicity reason..it might not be an option for a S300/with a 76/68 turbine.. I'm not that familiar with turbine housing options for s300 platform

Planned cruise is 1500-2100 range at 70mph basically top 3 gears of a 13sp..

500cid with 2-3:1 PR
1500rpm 30-45lbsmn
2100rpm 42-63lbmn

2-3:1 PR is 15-30PSIG for those following

With fixed the problem I see me running into is either being under the turbo running light, or over speeding with heavy high sail load and head wind

On paper this gt4088R in my truck with a .83 WG housing would work pretty good... Only problem it's a T3 foot vs T4 I don't really want to put a T3/T4 adapter on the truck

Though seams I can get a WG housing for a 74 turbine vs a 76.. maybe have someone like Zach machine the housing for a bigger turbine
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Last edited by malibu795; 03-16-2017 at 03:49 PM.
 
Old 03-16-2017, 04:27 PM   #74
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Do you want a T3 manifold? High mount or low mount?

I don't think you'll overspeed a smaller compressor nearly as bad as you are thinking...this isn't a high flow head 4 valve Duramax, it's old school tractor technology.

Chris
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Last edited by Signature600; 03-16-2017 at 04:31 PM.
 
Old 03-16-2017, 05:07 PM   #75
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Plumbing is setup for high mounted... Prefer to stay T4 see what happens when it comes time to buy the turbo

True I don't have a nice 4V head but do have an extra 100ci that I'm going have to account for
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Last edited by malibu795; 03-16-2017 at 05:20 PM.
 
Old 03-16-2017, 05:40 PM   #76
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For that size engine and t4, why wouldn't a small s400 be an option. Would think it would be more durable and still seems small for those engines given there size.
 
Old 03-16-2017, 05:54 PM   #77
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Plumbing is setup for high mounted... Prefer to stay T4 see what happens when it comes time to buy the turbo

True I don't have a nice 4V head but do have an extra 100ci that I'm going have to account for
I have a high mount T3 that came off a new sprayer engine, would give you extra turbo options.

Cubes is one thing, but mass air is mass air...505 CID at 2500RPM vs 402 CID at 3600RPM...I'm not figuring it, but air is air. I don't remember you being super excited about that GT4088R all the time were you?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jasonc View Post
For that size engine and t4, why wouldn't a small s400 be an option. Would think it would be more durable and still seems small for those engines given there size.
Even though you have more cubes, it's not a big power engine. It takes X lbs of fuel per HP unit, some engine are more efficient at it than others, but you can't fool physics. Heat and RPM spools chargers, and displacement helps, but we're not talking about a N14 here...we're talking about a third more cubes.


Factory 8.3's of almost ANY power rating run a 60mm HX40 either t3 or t4 flange...you're not going that exotic that you have to reinvent the wheels...


Again, Food for thought, and just my opinion...but I have towed many a mile with 5.9's as heavy or heavier than you will be, and I was never happy with anything over 60mm towing. AS you know, more than most on the board, that's a whole different animal than making big power on the track.
I think with the big cubes, the 364 might be the upper limit for towing performance...it will work, but it may not make you happy at 1500RPM on lighter or less sailboat loads.


FWIW,
Chris
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Old 03-16-2017, 07:19 PM   #78
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Let me know if there's something I can try to find on quickserve for you Adam. I also have build books on the isc / isl but idk how much they share with the older 8.3
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Old 03-16-2017, 07:48 PM   #79
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The 4088 is one of the best thing I did for the truck, since I couldn't find anyone that for fix the vanes getting locked closed at random with the VVT..
I do miss the turbo brake, and being able to close vanes at idek to help warm up.. those being only too down sides.


Mark at Danville bored out a WG .83a/r housing mentioned for a 3788 and matched it up.. only downside it's a T3 foot EGTs start climbing quicker above 2600rpms

Iirc it was you or Zach mentioned knowing guys that cooked hx40 on a lightly turned up 8.3 in the trucker thread.. hence why I'm looking at a turbo swap

Highest rating outside marine is 450hp for fire/rescue/ems application, that if read.. Regular truck was 320-350 HP

Definitely don't want anything bigger than a 64 single. Read couple guys putting 66 on motor homes with automatic... That looks like a pita to drive heavy in the hills.

If I didn't need the LMM I wouldn't think twice about sticking this 4088 on the 8.3. Have to figure out water plumbing..
S362sxe is the closest thing to the gt4088r
Saw somewhere there's WG S300 turbine housing but for a 74mm turbine vs 76mm haven't found the site again to see if they where T3/T4 foots..

S400? IDK
Quick look at HTT sight.. I jump from a 74/76mm turbine to at least a 82-83mm turbine and smallest comp is a 64mm.. I might be wrong but I'm leaning that it's going to be pretty laggy unresponsive down low unless I do some major airflow work.. cam, exhaust manifold, head work etc


Side note looking for air compressor to engine adapter or air compressor support bracket
part number #3559070 old part number was #3050367
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Quote:
smooth seas never made a skillfull sailor

Last edited by malibu795; 03-16-2017 at 07:55 PM.
 
Old 03-17-2017, 08:19 AM   #80
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Originally Posted by malibu795 View Post
The 4088 is one of the best thing I did for the truck, since I couldn't find anyone that for fix the vanes getting locked closed at random with the VVT..
I do miss the turbo brake, and being able to close vanes at idek to help warm up.. those being only too down sides.


Mark at Danville bored out a WG .83a/r housing mentioned for a 3788 and matched it up.. only downside it's a T3 foot EGTs start climbing quicker above 2600rpms

Iirc it was you or Zach mentioned knowing guys that cooked hx40 on a lightly turned up 8.3 in the trucker thread.. hence why I'm looking at a turbo swap

Highest rating outside marine is 450hp for fire/rescue/ems application, that if read.. Regular truck was 320-350 HP

Definitely don't want anything bigger than a 64 single. Read couple guys putting 66 on motor homes with automatic... That looks like a pita to drive heavy in the hills.

If I didn't need the LMM I wouldn't think twice about sticking this 4088 on the 8.3. Have to figure out water plumbing..
S362sxe is the closest thing to the gt4088r
Saw somewhere there's WG S300 turbine housing but for a 74mm turbine vs 76mm haven't found the site again to see if they where T3/T4 foots..

S400? IDK
Quick look at HTT sight.. I jump from a 74/76mm turbine to at least a 82-83mm turbine and smallest comp is a 64mm.. I might be wrong but I'm leaning that it's going to be pretty laggy unresponsive down low unless I do some major airflow work.. cam, exhaust manifold, head work etc


Side note looking for air compressor to engine adapter or air compressor support bracket
part number #3559070 old part number was #3050367
It wasn't an HX40 that got cooked in 10 hours, it was an S362 non wastegate... I might replace one HX40 a year on the 200 or so 8.3's running in tractors and combines.

If Durability is the only reason you're thinking of swapping, then I would end conversation....They aren't as durable as an S300 with the 360* thrust when a guy is racing, pulling, or driving like a douche, but in a working application I have had nothing but good luck.

Wastegate them at 40psi or less, and don't chop the throttle everytime you shift, and I would have no problems running a HX40. They aren't near as bad as everyone says if you are a driver.

Either way, it sounds like you're not going to make a bad choice, just remember that 90% of the opinions you will get around here have almost zero towing experience, and definitely zero experience towing heavy. It's just facts, not trying to ruffle any feathers.

Chris
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