Software beta testers needed for 'Anteater'

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Old base tune on the ATS/PCS software. This would be awesome on the ant eater.


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If the anteater could command lock and unlock per gear I would have one.

There are serious gains to be had on a DD / tow truck by programmically locking 2nd, then unlock for the 2-3 shift and back to lock for 3rd and so forth.
 
Can someone guide me in the right direction with what to specifically adjust. The problem is down shifting from 4th gear to 3rd gear is hard.
 
Keep in mind the Anteater does unlock for both 4-3 and 3-2 since it's a requirement of the OEM 47re VB.

Can you describe how complete control lockup would work?

Describe what happens at 20% constant TPS accelerating 0-80mph and 0% TPS decelerating from 80-0mph in the picture above.

Now describe what is happening at 20% TPS and 47mph then moving to 90% TPS and accelerating to 100mph.

Then describe 33% TPS at 58mph then 5% TPS dropping to 0mph.
 
Anteater unlocks for the downshift only? or upshift and downshift automatically?

I know the trans can't downshift without unlocking so I am guessing it only does on downshift.
 
I was having a hard time with that as well. Since the trans would downshift then hit lockup again. Made for a jerky deceleration, and if items in the bed weren’t secured they would be jarred loose and slide to the front. No fun.

The way I fixed it I tuned my 4-3 down shift to happen at 38mph, which is also under my lockup tune line at 20% throttle input, so it unlocks and grabs third unlocked. It won’t lock again until I get above 48-50mph at 20% throttle input.

I have a tuning question too since we are on the topic, why is it that the ant eater won’t command a downshift until my Motor starts to make an effort? My 3-2 downshift seems delayed and when it does decide to shift down its right in the middle of making torque so it hinders acceleration by dropping a gear then almost immediately shifting up again. Originally I thought this was because my 2-3 shift line was too flat and I had several values that were the same (for example, three 25mph upshifts at 40,50,and 60% throttle input). Now I have them spaced at least a couple mph to make a nice linear graph, but still has the same issue, just not as pronounced.


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YOUNG GUNS15 said:
I was having a hard time with that as well. Since the trans would downshift then hit lockup again. Made for a jerky deceleration, and if items in the bed weren’t secured they would be jarred loose and slide to the front. No fun.

The way I fixed it I tuned my 4-3 down shift to happen at 38mph, which is also under my lockup tune line at 20% throttle input, so it unlocks and grabs third unlocked. It won’t lock again until I get above 48-50mph at 20% throttle input.

I have a tuning question too since we are on the topic, why is it that the ant eater won’t command a downshift until my Motor starts to make an effort? My 3-2 downshift seems delayed and when it does decide to shift down its right in the middle of making torque so it hinders acceleration by dropping a gear then almost immediately shifting up again. Originally I thought this was because my 2-3 shift line was too flat and I had several values that were the same (for example, three 25mph upshifts at 40,50,and 60% throttle input). Now I have them spaced at least a couple mph to make a nice linear graph, but still has the same issue, just not as pronounced.


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Are you talking about coasting 3-2 (no/low throttle) or throttle tip-in to force hard acceleration?

At face value this sounds like a throttle valve setting symptom

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biggy238 said:
Are you talking about coasting 3-2 (no/low throttle) or throttle tip-in to force hard acceleration?

At face value this sounds like a throttle valve setting symptom

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What you’re calling throttle tip in.

So setting the tv higher would cause it to downshift faster when I get on the throttle, correct?


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I think part of what you are sensing is the programmed time required for the hydraulics to complete the downshift.
Spend a little more time with it and see if you can get it dialed. I had atleast one tune that would break the tires loose on throttle induced downshifts for testing.

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It keeps the controller from downshifting and then immediately trying to upshift again. If you look at most tunes, the 4-3 downshift usually occurs at a higher speed than where the 3-4upshift is programmed, so electronically there is an area where it could upshift and downshift repeatedly at the same wheel speed.


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biggy238 said:
It keeps the controller from downshifting and then immediately trying to upshift again. If you look at most tunes, the 4-3 downshift usually occurs at a higher speed than where the 3-4upshift is programmed, so electronically there is an area where it could upshift and downshift repeatedly at the same wheel speed.


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Ok thanks so keep it at 3?
 
YOUNG GUNS15 said:
I was having a hard time with that as well. Since the trans would downshift then hit lockup again. Made for a jerky deceleration, and if items in the bed weren’t secured they would be jarred loose and slide to the front. No fun.

The way I fixed it I tuned my 4-3 down shift to happen at 38mph, which is also under my lockup tune line at 20% throttle input, so it unlocks and grabs third unlocked. It won’t lock again until I get above 48-50mph at 20% throttle input.


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I move the lockup at 0-10% throttle percentage up to above the OD table that way when you are slowing down (aka 0% throttle) it unlocks the converter and doesn't give those harsh down shifts.
 
So I am having an issue here, really on the verge of calling it quits on the anteater, I’ve spent way too much time trying to clear up the 2-3 shuttle/ kick down problems. It seems like no matter what I try, there is a delay on kick down when I ask for about 35-50% throttle. Also if I’m towing it becomes even more aggravating because I’m commonly using 60% throttle to accelerate and I get a downshift right when I don’t need it, usually shortly after a 2-3 upshift, it waits a few seconds then tries to drop down again then immediately shifts up again, really annoying while towing.

Things I have tried:
-Adjusting TV lever from 50% to 100%
-Adjusted gov modifier from 35, up to 55, usually higher aggravates the problem.
-Tuning the ever loving crap out of my daily tune, I’ve got it to come a long way, but still acts stupid on the 2-3 shift in slight uphill conditions around town, and towing.
- changing the anti hunt mph anywhere from 4 to 20mph, still have yet to see it actually change something. Not entirely convinced it does anything.
- changing tps voltage min and max
- tuning 2-3 flat, also tried tuning 2-3 in an aggressive curve, which actually made the most positive difference.

All together, I loved this thing for how simple it was, but now running into problems where it just can’t control this trans well enough for what I use the truck for.

If I’ve missed something, I’m all ears. Would really prefer not to put a THIRD standalone trans controller on this truck.



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