Truckers, lets see your rigs!

2017 F550. I didn’t know you could get 4 air bags on the rear until I saw this one.
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Why would you want to? You would be better served to give it it's own cooling circuit to make it more efficient.

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Rig Wrench said:
Anyone ever have any luck deleting the PreCooler on an otherwise stock Acert?
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Yes, cut the end off the coolant diverter solenoid and it will screw into one of the water passages in the block behind where the cooler used to be. The circuit has to be complete and you can’t just the magnet off the valve because it will burn out after a while.
 
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biggy238 said:
Why would you want to? You would be better served to give it it's own cooling circuit to make it more efficient.

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Because it’s only purpose is to heat the coolant and/or leak. And it’s cleaner.
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While I'm curious how the outlet elbow works, I would still keep it and run its own heat exchanger and pump.

Is this the one you posted the charge air Temps from? The ~450° is consistent with what I was trained on. The liquid cooler dropped Temps to just above coolant temp from what I remember. Target manifold inlet temp is always 100 degrees for emissions engines. I don't know why that is the magic number.

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While I'm curious how the outlet elbow works, I would still keep it and run its own heat exchanger and pump.

Is this the one you posted the charge air Temps from? The ~450° is consistent with what I was trained on. The liquid cooler dropped Temps to just above coolant temp from what I remember. Target manifold inlet temp is always 100 degrees for emissions engines. I don't know why that is the magic number.
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Intake temps before cooler removal was 130's on a hard pull on a 90*day and water temps would easily be 225*. After the removal, intake temps are in the 145* range on the same grade and coolant rarely sees much over 200* and this is on my daycab that's 800hp. If a truck that’s 300hp over stock doesn’t need it I can’t see how 500hp needs it. I have found zero downfall to removing the "cooler". On the 5EK in the pic the intake temp is 136* with NO cooler and a less than ideal factory CAC. It would be a huge PITA to add a second radiator and electric pump to fix a non existent issue.

My turbo outlet temp was 471* and the Duralite cooled it to 113*, not sure how you could improve that.
 
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jfaulkner said:
I guess if you really wanted a cooler you could do this. Not sure if it’s worth it but.....
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It's funny you posted that because I was curious how interstage would work after I read the post.

130° is reasonable.

I suppose we will just have to disagree on the usefulness of the precooler.

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