your thoughts please....

Thanks for posting that Mark. No final pricing yet on the new 6.7l block. We are just now getting our test blocks and heads in. Its got the deck plate cast into the block. Also, gusseted cylinder walls. columns to tie the deck into the mains, .080" thicker cylinder walls per side, round coolant holes around the cylinder wall instead of elongated holes and 1" smaller freeze plug holes. We are also looking at having the front of the block drilled to accept the CR or 6bt front covers.

With the deck plate built into the block how much taller will this block be than the factory?
 
Block is oem height. Forgot to mention the oem material is 250mpa strength material, while the new casting is 280 mpa material.
The blocks on our site are oem quality blocks with 7 cam bearings, 14mm head and main bolts.
 
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Maybe I missed it but are any of the blocks adding strength to the cam area? This is where the deckplates are not holding up to the billet blocks.
 
Ever thought about creating a better-designed, less-prone-to-breaking, reasonably-priced Dmax crank? We're having quite a few issues with the OEM.
 
We are also looking at having the front of the block drilled to accept the CR or 6bt front covers.

If I remember right, a couple of the holes are half into each other when you drill a CR block for a P pump cover. You have to plug and redrill in that case.

Now a new P pump gear housing that bolts right on and moves the pump a long way from the intake............
 
Ever thought about creating a better-designed, less-prone-to-breaking, reasonably-priced Dmax crank? We're having quite a few issues with the OEM.

Are you having problems even when running an alternate fire camshaft? I thought the alt-fire cams were helping the OEM cranks to live longer at higher HP levels than they were with OEM cams.
 
They help, but that still doesnt address the base problems of the OEM crank design. I was just wondering if Hamilton was thinking of getting into it.
 
Takedown, The better block material will help with this quite a bit. If we add ribbing to the outside of the block tooling costs would be quite a bit higher and would drive block costs up a bit.

Duramax parts are CRAZY expensive. Maybe it's time we come out with a cost effective head, rods and crankshaft.
 
Takedown, The better block material will help with this quite a bit. If we add ribbing to the outside of the block tooling costs would be quite a bit higher and would drive block costs up a bit.

Duramax parts are CRAZY expensive. Maybe it's time we come out with a cost effective head, rods and crankshaft.

Thanks Zach. I saw you are also tying in the mains to the deck which will also help keep it together.
 
I haven't seen much since I've been out of the game for two years, but I'm down for a stroker 7.1L Cummins motor.

Is there anything in production or in a truck since the original post? I know there are some solid blocks floating around but are they a 7.1 setup? Not trying to be ignorant Im just catching up with the latest.
 
The solid blocks are 4.210" bore but will accept up to 4.4".

On the new wet 6.7l performance heads and blocks, both are cast and should be finish machined soon. The new wet head should be good for a 4.300 or 4.350 to lesser hp.
 
After getting some quotes back on simple aluminum molds, I can't imagine how much you have in tooling costs to get these done. Simply amazing!
 
5" stroke would net a terrible rod ratio. Adding a deck plate and longer rods most likely wouldn't work because of clearance issues, even the +1 rods now are very close to the bottom of the cylinder bores and we most often have to clearance the liner depending on bore size. But I suppose if you open the bore up large enough it could work.
 
Using 8" rods would put you at 1.6:1, the same as a stock 5.9. Getting pistons made with that pin height would be no big deal, or if you have enough top ring land, a deck spacer would work also.
 
Bingo. I run a 8.2" rod on a standard deck height. At 4.4" bore it clears nicely with a 5" stroke with plenty of clearance ;)
 
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