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Old 09-08-2014, 08:49 PM   #1
blacksm0king
 
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47re questions.

I am picking up a 47re in the next day or two, I want to run it in my rat rod without a standalone controller. From what I've found out is the biggest problem is that the governor is electronically controlled. Will a constant pressure valve body solve this issue? The rat rod is going to be a pulling truck. BTW
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Old 09-09-2014, 08:30 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacksm0king View Post
The rat rod is going to be a pulling truck
What?!

Pictures?

And why not get a 47rh? The only inputs to it needed are:
12v positive
ground - OD
ground - TC LU
and then a TV cable that you could tie back.
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Old 09-09-2014, 08:32 AM   #3
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Getting a steal on the re. If I find an RH will my re adapter plate and stuff work?

http://www.competitiondiesel.com/for...d.php?t=130766
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Old 09-09-2014, 08:37 AM   #4
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Yeah, the 47re/rh and 48re are all the same when it comes to bolting up. Probably the 46 and earlier models too, but I don't know for sure.

NakeDiesel is running a th400 in his 12V and seems to love it too if you wanted to look at going that route.
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Old 09-09-2014, 08:37 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacksm0king View Post
If I find an RH will my re adapter plate and stuff work?
Yes. And I can't imagne you would want to have it shifting while puilling, so just get a full manual VB...then add two switches for LU and OD.

Or you could look into the standanlone Joe Farmer (CompD username) is releasing soon.
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Old 09-09-2014, 08:39 AM   #6
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I'm planning on a manual valvebody, but I need a way to control line pressure
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Old 09-09-2014, 11:31 AM   #7
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If you run the RE Put a DNJ Solenoid in it and be done with it. They are NOT a BW upgraded Gov Press Sensor. They are the chit. Has worked well in my trans.
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Old 09-09-2014, 01:45 PM   #8
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If you run the RE Put a DNJ Solenoid in it and be done with it. They are NOT a BW upgraded Gov Press Sensor. They are the chit. Has worked well in my trans.
Yeah, $167 isn't a bad price either.
http://www.cascadetransmissionparts....olenoidhd.aspx

I run the BW solenoid in mine and have had great experience. I just got one in the mail yesterday that's going in since the new trans somehow didn't come with one
Oh and the BW one is only like $40 shipped.
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Old 09-09-2014, 05:01 PM   #9
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We usually sell the DNJ cheaper than that. We use so many of them and have had great luck with them.
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Old 09-12-2014, 06:50 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacksm0king View Post
I'm planning on a manual valvebody, but I need a way to control line pressure

Isn't line pressure still controlled by the throttle valve cable? I may be confusing myself but I think you might be mixing up line pressure vs. gov. pressure (which isn't needed with a full manual VB)
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Old 09-12-2014, 06:53 PM   #11
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Governor pressure is what I meant. I'm a newbe on autos,and just going by what I've been told.
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Old 09-12-2014, 06:58 PM   #12
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Governor pressure is what I meant. I'm a newbe on autos,and just going by what I've been told.

So just run the full manual valve body and some switches for O/D and lockup and you'll be all set. No need to worry about governor pressure with that VB. Governor pressure is what pushes against the shift valves to overcome the combined force of calibrated springs and throttle valve pressure, when governor pressure gets high enough the shift valve (which are spool valves) move over (compressing the spring) and re direct fluid to allow the next gear change. With the full manual you will be doing the redirection of the fluid with the shifter so no need for Gov pressure.
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Old 09-12-2014, 08:15 PM   #13
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So a manual valve body and a lockup switch and I'll be golden? I don't need overdrive for the track.
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Old 09-12-2014, 09:43 PM   #14
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Manual valve body, lockup switch, and you'll need to run the 12v wire to the trans to power the lockup solenoid
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Old 09-12-2014, 09:50 PM   #15
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Sounds good now I need money. Lol
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Old 09-13-2014, 03:00 AM   #16
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If you run a 47re without electronics, it will still function totally normal if you manually up-shift it. Without electronics, governor pressure matches line pressure which causes the transmission to be in 3rd gear. What this means for a low budget guy is start in neutral, quickly pull the shifter to L before it can engage 2nd or 3rd gear. Then at your desired rpm, bump the shifter up to 2nd, and then up to Drive for 3rd gear. The only thing you'll gain with a full manual valvebody is the ability to downshift at any RPM into any gear.

If you hit neutral first, you can manually downshift to any gear you want with zero electronics.
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Old 09-13-2014, 09:46 PM   #17
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Ok, well I'm thinking I'll start out in 2nd slap 3rd part of the way down the track and back to 2nd if it's getting under the turbo.
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Old 12-08-2014, 02:13 PM   #18
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Watching this. Not to steal your thread Shaun but I got a 47re question as well. Are the tailshaft housings on 4wd re the same as 47rh/46? I've got a 93 with a 5 speed and plan to build a manual vb Trans to put in. But need to make sure my transfer case will work.


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Old 12-08-2014, 02:29 PM   #19
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Well Doing a little reading the Rh is longer due to the hydraulic gov pump. Makes sense. Seems I remember the tail shafts being longer. Now I know why. But being as I want to build a manual vb re I wouldn't need the gov pump and different housing would I? As long as my transfer case would bolt up and work


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