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Old 01-09-2017, 12:33 PM   #1
RacinDuallie
 
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2nd Gen 4wd steering upgrade

What are some of the good upgrades to do on this 2nd Gen??
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Old 01-09-2017, 01:29 PM   #2
jlbayes
 
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What year?
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Jacob, 97 rclb
 
Old 01-09-2017, 01:30 PM   #3
RacinDuallie
 
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What year?
Sorry. 1998.5 4wd- 3500.
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Old 01-09-2017, 01:39 PM   #4
jlbayes
 
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Synergy has a newer steering linkage setup. PSC is getting ready to release a new steering box.
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Jacob, 97 rclb
 
Old 01-09-2017, 02:06 PM   #5
Marq92
 
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^^^
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2001.0 QCLB 3500 4x4 3.55 Toyo M-55 255/85R16 Brown's/Goerend 48RE sonnax shafts/maxed count Alto clutches Carli/Deaver 3.0 EMF BJ's PSC 6 bolt box Synergy steering TheRetroShop HID projector retrofit VLED's DC Power 180A alternator W-T ground mod ISSPRO EV2's
 
Old 01-09-2017, 02:18 PM   #6
Got Smoke?
 
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I've heard they are the best? Don't personally have one but would love to for my 97!

1994-2002 Dodge 1500, 2500 Remanufacturer
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2007 2500 Mega 68RFE FirePunk EFI/CSP5 & TCM tuning, Edge CTS II.

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Old 01-09-2017, 02:23 PM   #7
T-MAN
 
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When i did mine i threw the book at it.
pcs quick ratio steering box with 220 torsion bar
solid steel steering box brace
03 trac bar upgrade
new t style steering with bilstein steering stabilizer. Everything seems nice and tight now...
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2001.5 ppump allison 11.399@ 117.90 6850#
1997 rcsb 12v 6.7 9.38 @ 146.54
 
Old 01-09-2017, 02:58 PM   #8
CorneliusRox
 
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90% of the problems are solved by tossing a steering brace on (~$100), and going to the newer style, double sheer, track bar ($400+). I'd start there.

I do have an AGR hydro assist setup, that is overkill.
If I were to do it again, I'd of gone with this: wtor
Or I'd do it myself. Good info here:
DIY: Hydraulic Ram Assist

Alternatively, a good friend has the Redhead steering gear box and it did tighten his steering a ton. That's comparing it to his ~260,000 miles original box though.
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Old 01-09-2017, 04:39 PM   #9
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When is the release date for the psc? I've had good luck with doing the adjustments on the gearbox to Tighten it up. There's lots of other places for slop that the gearbox usually gets blamed for

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Old 01-09-2017, 05:00 PM   #10
Howling
 
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Click the image to open in full size.
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Eric

2006 Dodge CTD/48re 4x4 Sport
With some fuel and air.
Bullseye,Hamilton,Exergy,EFI,ATS,FASS,HTS,Thuren, Toyo's...

1996 2500 RC 4x4 CTD-63/68/.83,5X.014,180 maxed Ppump,Fass...
 
Old 01-09-2017, 06:30 PM   #11
Tate
 
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I did the Borgeson box and steering shaft, DSS and installed the '08 T-style retrofit drag link and tie rods. The latter because it was about 1/3rd the price of the regular '98 stuff. Improved it considerably.
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Old 01-09-2017, 06:52 PM   #12
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'08 T-style retrofit drag link and tie rods. The latter because it was about 1/3rd the price of the regular '98 stuff. Improved it considerably.
What'd you have to do to install it? I have it in my garage and noticed the AAM knuckles must be wider than the Dana 60's. I deemed it an install I'll do when it's above zero degrees as my truck doesn't fit into the insulated/heated part of my garage.
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Old 01-09-2017, 09:58 PM   #13
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I think you'll have to trim for wheel clearance. ~2000-01 and down specifically from the researching I did on it.
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2001.0 QCLB 3500 4x4 3.55 Toyo M-55 255/85R16 Brown's/Goerend 48RE sonnax shafts/maxed count Alto clutches Carli/Deaver 3.0 EMF BJ's PSC 6 bolt box Synergy steering TheRetroShop HID projector retrofit VLED's DC Power 180A alternator W-T ground mod ISSPRO EV2's
 
Old 01-10-2017, 06:05 AM   #14
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I did the crossover steering, 3rd Gen track bar, steering brace, the biggest improvement was the Borg steering box upgrade. Probably could have left the rest stock and just done the box and the brace and would have been happy. It rid of that wander and heavy feel they have, was kind of expensive though.
 
Old 01-10-2017, 08:28 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by CorneliusRox View Post
What'd you have to do to install it? I have it in my garage and noticed the AAM knuckles must be wider than the Dana 60's. I deemed it an install I'll do when it's above zero degrees as my truck doesn't fit into the insulated/heated part of my garage.
On the earlier axles the drag link threads need to be shortened. They bottom out before getting to the correct alignment position. Some wheels will clear the tre studs, some do not. Seems to be a problem with a 16" wheel.
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Old 01-10-2017, 09:31 AM   #16
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On the earlier axles the drag link threads need to be shortened. They bottom out before getting to the correct alignment position. Some wheels will clear the tre studs, some do not. Seems to be a problem with a 16" wheel.
I've got 17's so I think I'm fine there. I just grabbed my steering puller, popped my old stuff off, and noticed it was too long, and decided to tackle it when it warms up. If it's as easy as taking an inch off the tie rod ends, I'll probably get it done this weekend.
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Old 01-10-2017, 11:17 AM   #17
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All it seems to take. Most everyone I know of was taking it off the long side.
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Old 01-10-2017, 11:22 AM   #18
CorneliusRox
 
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All it seems to take. Most everyone I know of was taking it off the long side.
Thanks for the info!
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Old 01-10-2017, 11:53 AM   #19
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You're welcome!
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Old 01-10-2017, 06:02 PM   #20
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I needed to trim the tie rod threads. You're best to take it off from both sides, as the sleeve has both LH and RH threads, so you can't just run the extra threads past center. I also needed to replace the pitman arm from a later 2nd gen ('01 was what I told the parts store) as the newer stuff has a bigger balljoint on the drag link. The draglink I don't recall having to modify. No issues with clearance on 16" wheels on my truck, but my hub conversion also widens the track width a bit, so that would help in that regard as well.
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