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Old 03-09-2012, 12:40 PM   #21
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The bars need to be pretty long so that if you ever get enough power to lift the front end for a good margin of the track, you will not bend the frame. That is a whole lot of weight hanging up front.
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Old 03-09-2012, 12:51 PM   #22
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That makes since, and do you know how hard that Gif makes it to read a thread?
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Shaun

1993 2wd sled dragger.
 
Old 03-09-2012, 02:34 PM   #23
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Haha!!!

As far as the P Pump swap, it all comes down to $$$$, If you have the money now to get a benched and balanced P Pump plus all the parts to swap over might as well do it. It realy takes about an afternoon to do it, so its not like the truck will be down for too long.

If your going to have to save up, might as well find an engine and throw some parts at it when you can, and when thats ready to go, its just a simple engine swap!
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Old 03-09-2012, 02:44 PM   #24
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I will have to save up. So i think i will go with the engine swap idea. i can get a p-pump engine out of a school bus fairly cheap around here. But i don't know what to do about a transmission. what are ya'll using?

Edit: Do i need to box the frame or will it be strong enough with the traction bars?
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1993 2wd sled dragger.

Last edited by blacksm0king; 03-09-2012 at 02:45 PM.
 
Old 03-10-2012, 03:18 PM   #25
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NV4500 has lasted 3 yrs in mine, pulling 2nd gear.

ill try and snap some pics of my bars and everything while i have her stripped down.
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Old 03-10-2012, 09:04 PM   #26
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Alright Thanks, I figured i should upgrade the tranny, the getrag needs rebuilt anyways. I could just look for a nv4500, and swap it out. Pics will Be nice Thanks
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1993 2wd sled dragger.
 
Old 03-10-2012, 09:23 PM   #27
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2nd Gear in the Getrag will be fine for starting out. Just overfill the trans by 1 qt of synthetic 5w-30 engine oil.

I would keep it VE'd but that is just my personal preference. Spend $15 and get a 4200 RPM spring. If you need it, I will get the part number for you.

Get a set of 5x12's from Weston on here.

Get a HE351CW from an 05-06 Cummins if you must run a stock turbo. Otherwise I would suggest a nice 63/68/.90. Your VE will need nothing more unless you go 14mm H&R but then reliability of the pump goes way down.

Cheap fuel supply is a Holley Black or the knock off Procomp Black. Set at 14psi and 160gph should supply most of the fuel you will need. The stock diaphragm lift pump is junk.

And finally a 7.3L Superduty intercooler with metal ends fits into the stock IC location with minimal trimming. Get a set of CoolerTubz from Tim Worline to round it out.

Now you have enough power to do something to the truck.
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Old 03-10-2012, 09:39 PM   #28
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so i should get a 4200 spring, i just bought a 3200 a while back. i haven't put it in yet. for the turbo I looked up the rules and it says a 2.6 I'm guessing that's the intake on the turbo right? I've been meaning to upgrade the lift pump. I figured I'd need more than 5x12, but i really am a newb on injectors. I'll look for a 7.3 intercooler, but what about a 2nd gen intercooler, my cousin has one just laying in his shop? how much bigger is the 7.3? I like to fabricate, so i will probably make my own 3" tubes.
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1993 2wd sled dragger.
 
Old 03-10-2012, 09:40 PM   #29
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here's a link to the rules. Middle Tennessee Pullers Association - 8500 lb. Stock Diesel Truck Rules
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1993 2wd sled dragger.
 
Old 03-11-2012, 04:05 PM   #30
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alright, well I was looking around today, and started looking up tires. I like my 19.5's so i am planning on running them, and i may pick up 4 more and swap tires when i'm gonna be pulling. what do ya'll think about these, The 2nd one only comes in 225 width, but the 1st one is a 245. In the rules i am only allowed a 1 ton drivetrain, so i guess i'll be looking for a drw dana 80? or is there a better 1 ton axle?
https://www.treadwright.com/p-31-245...dog-m-t-g.aspx

https://www.treadwright.com/p-19-225...crawler-f.aspx

Thanks

Shaun
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Old 03-11-2012, 06:08 PM   #31
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If you can run a bigger turbo than stock, a 63/68/.90 would mate nicely with 5x14's.

If the 2nd Gen cooler is free, then use it. A little more work than a 7.3L but still better than the stocker.
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Old 03-11-2012, 08:41 PM   #32
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A DRW D80 would be enough. If going that route I would look to Yukon for axle shafts and gears. I had a Yukon full spool, Gearset(s), and Axles in mine. I put several hooks on the axles.. Never broke one but sure did put a twist on em. Got to the power level that i kept shelling gearsets every few hooks.
I would also advise to get a girdle kit for the D80. that will solve a lot of those issues. Hope it helps.
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Old 03-11-2012, 09:31 PM   #33
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Alright, so should i just start out with getting the yukon stuff, or wait till i break it? And what is a girdle kit?
I could probably get the intercooler for free. He has a Dana 80 setting there too, but it's srw. could i swap my drw stuff over to it?
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Old 03-11-2012, 11:25 PM   #34
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no real need to swap the drw hubs. Just put your dual wheels on that axle. Unless the wheels will not clear the brake drums, or is too narrow and the tires hit the frame, but you shouldn't have any issues. If so then a set of wheel spacers should work. Also, I now you plan on driving the truck still, but your gearing is what will really hurt you. A NV4500 is 2nd gear with either 3.54 or 4.10's is really too fast of a gear for a 2wd. If you don't mind slower speeds and alittle higher RPM, I would recommend swapping to a 4.63 or 4.88 rear end gear plus some 33" tires. Only other option would be to find a NV5600 6spd with a transfer case and run 4th low with 3.54 or 3.73 gears. You could try running 2nd high with the NV5600 with 4.10 gears, but I doubt the mainshaft in the tranny would last over 1 or 2 hooks. Also with the full spool, you will hate driving it very much, especially on wet roads. You best option would probably just to make it a track only pull truck and drive something else. But to each thier own i guess.
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Last edited by kino_fab; 03-11-2012 at 11:33 PM.
 
Old 03-11-2012, 11:28 PM   #35
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You are gonna need a good set of injectors. I suggest a 5x0.018, 6x0.016, or 7x0.015. Somewhere around that geteral area.
 
Old 03-12-2012, 01:33 AM   #36
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dana 80 girdle plate - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together

post #8

A girdle will help keep the main caps in the rear end from flexing and shelling teeth off your ring gear. It will also keep the housing from flexing as much.
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Old 03-12-2012, 10:57 AM   #37
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Thanks everyone, I can't get another vehicle to drive until after graduation. I will be graduating in may, then i should be able to afford a newer truck. So my plans were to play around with the sled at the local antique tractor pull until i got the newer truck. Then the 1st gen is gonna be a full time puller. I've heard good things about 6x16 injectors, so i may go that route. I'll get the tape out and see if my wheels will fit the srw 80 that my cousin has.
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Old 03-12-2012, 11:16 AM   #38
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dana 80 girdle plate - Competition Diesel.Com - Bringing The BEST Together

post #8

A girdle will help keep the main caps in the rear end from flexing and shelling teeth off your ring gear. It will also keep the housing from flexing as much.
so which one would you suggest? the one that replaces the cap or the one that extends out towards the ends of the axle?
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Old 03-12-2012, 02:10 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacksm0king View Post
so which one would you suggest? the one that replaces the cap or the one that extends out towards the ends of the axle?
I never had a problem with my axle tubes twisting.. but as mentioned above i got to the point i couldnt keep a ring and pinion in more than a few hooks.

If ya have the extra cash i would try and get the longer one... but the single cover would work just as well at your power level.
When ya get ready to go full time puller with her, Id suggest a 2 ton rear end IMHO.
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Old 03-12-2012, 02:36 PM   #40
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I wonder if the local pullers would mind if i had a 2 ton rear end? the rules say 1 ton drive train, but it's a 4x4 class. I would rather go ahead and get the 2ton, instead of changing the rear end twice. I'll try to contact the local pulling association.
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1993 2wd sled dragger.
 
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