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Old 01-03-2017, 10:13 AM   #41
9724VF350
 
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Originally Posted by jimbo486 View Post
It may not be similar but I used Permatex copper spray on the last 2 gaskets. Waited until it got real tacky before setting it on the deck.

That might be what I just need to do, even though I hate 'bandaids' but I'm also getting tired of torquing these studs. Had to have run through the sequence close to 10 times in the last few months.

My neighbor, an old timer car guy, said that he'd drive it a bit with straight distilled/demineralized water to put some heat cycles through it and maybe it would seal up. He also mentioned some stop leak stuff. I've always been skeptical of that stuff plugging up where you don't want it to though and creating costly issues down the road.
I'm not much of a fan of Copper coat. High tack is what I use in places where I want a tacky aerosol sealer.

Right stuff is essentially black silicone on steroids.
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Old 01-03-2017, 10:54 AM   #42
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One thing I've never fumbled through enough to figure out which is better because you read 18 different versions.

One person says completely clean and dry gasket and surface only.
One says copper coat it and you'll be done.
One says high tac and that's it.
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Old 01-04-2017, 12:16 PM   #43
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My useless post for the day:
I've never liked putting sealants in places they weren't called for. The reason being is displacement. There are situations where the liquid can't flow out of a joint under clamp load, and then create a high point between the two metal surfaces. I may be over thinking the entire deal, but anywhere fluids were to begin with can be displaced by fluids/gasses under pressure.

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Old 01-04-2017, 12:34 PM   #44
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I agree.

Something is wrong somewhere and I can't figure it out. It didn't leak from here before the rebuild. Why so suddenly? Should the deck have been surfaced as well to have both it and the head flat/true to sandwich the gasket?
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Old 01-04-2017, 12:53 PM   #45
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Short answer to that is yes, any time that it is feasible. Let me go back and read the thread again and get back to you.

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Old 01-04-2017, 12:56 PM   #46
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While I would have had the deck done if I had my block out if it checked within spec I wouldn't stress over it. I believe we have seen enough responses to believe that there is an issue with the current supply of gakets. I would see if maybe you could find an old stock gasket somewhere.

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Old 03-03-2017, 02:29 PM   #47
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Well it blew again. He took the whole truck to D&J and told them to do whatever they needed to to make it stop blowing head gaskets.

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Old 03-03-2017, 03:25 PM   #48
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Just to wipe my hands from this thread, even though I posted in my rebuild thread. I pulled mine again and found the block cracked behind the rear bolt bore. No gasket failure here.
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Old 05-27-2017, 10:16 PM   #49
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Well it blew again. He took the whole truck to D&J and told them to do whatever they needed to to make it stop blowing head gaskets.

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D&J fixed it. Pulled the motor and re-machined it all. Made 1212 on firepunks dyno and the trans started slipping....
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Old 05-28-2017, 12:43 AM   #50
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but haisley told him he'll never keep a head gasket in it at 90+ lbs of boost

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What a ridiculous statement that is...
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Old 03-29-2018, 09:04 PM   #51
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Update on this truck, D&J did truly fix the head gasket issues, till it split the block 😂 Sleeved 6.7 engine from D&J is waiting to go in. Hopefully his run of bad luck is over!

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