p-pumped 2001 24v who's done it

just like the title says.
a buddy of mine has an 01 24v and recently decided he wants to p pump it i mentioned that i have heard they have some bad driveability issues and streetability. he drives this truck every day. and it is his main source of transportation.
basically i want some input of who's done it and what should he expect?? good, bad, or worse, great grand wonderful please tell em all.
remember daily driver to.
thanks in advance jeremy

Mines not an 01, but it is a daily driver. The drivability is way up from the HRVP I had. It doesn't surge at light throttle/light load conditions, smooth idle which the VP didn't have. The throttle is much more sensitive than with the VP and a Smarty on it. Mine has the 4k springs in it, so I'm sure that has something to do with it. You get used to it, but I'd be worried letting someone else drive my truck who doesn't have much control of their foot.

The only real downside I can see would be the cost. I spent around $4k to do this. I bought the kit from Schieds, a used 215 pump with some mods already, and I bought a new 45psi FASS for it. There is also some odds and ends to take care of that the kit doesn't address, like low pressure fuel lines, shut off solenoids, boost lines to the AFC, and such.

What I'm running right now is a 215 pump, 4k GSK, 10 plate full forward, 14.5 degrees timing, 80hp jammer injectors, and a SPS62. Half throttle gets me to 45psi, beyond that is smoke. Boost and timing will go up once I put in a new headgasket and stud it. Gonna dyno it on Saturday, we'll see what it does.

from all the 12valves that have been parted out we prettymuch have all the parts we need to do the project. just dont have a pump yet i have one but im not giving it up to him yet.
did you have to do anything to the injectors someone thought you had to set pop pressures differently????
talked to a kid who had an 01 and it ran like sh**, he said he had it to scheids several times they couldnt get it right, half his guages didnt work and had nothing but probs.
anyone and everyone please chime in thanks jeremy

Seems to run one of two ways, folks either love the conversion, or hate it. IMHO your buddy would be better off doing a complete motor swap to a 12V rather P-pumping a 24V. After talking to a few folks this weekend my ideas on P-pumping my truck have been thrown out the window. Just seems too hit or miss.

That's why I've decided that if I do go p-pump I'm gonna drop the whole motor in. Some people get them right, other's don't. And the kicker is is that no one knows why some work and some don't.

With mine, all my gauges work, I don't even have a check engine light. The Scheid kit comes with a cam sensor kit to keep that intact (goes where the timing pin is on the 12v), which will be needed on the later 24v's. I'm running the same injectors as I did with the VP, nothing has been changed. But on a cooler day, on a cold start, I'll get a fair bit of white smoke if I bring the RPMs up. Once some heat is on it, or if I run my espar before starting, its a non issue. But I'm going with either DDP's or F1's set for the p-pump, which hopefully will solve my cold start smoke, as well as reduce the smoke from the cheapo jammers. If you have a complete 12v, that would be the way to go, but if you have a wrecked 12v, a p-pump swap isn't bad. You'd basically only need the cam sensor kit (or make your own) and some lines. You will also need a 1" spacer on intake horn to clear the injection lines.

a p-pump swap is going to be less labor-intensive and less work to get everything to work like gauges and cruise control then doing a 12v conversion. 12v conversion requires lots of re-engineering to get all that stuff to work again whereas if you are just "re-powering" with a p-pump there would be a lot less work to it.

I talked to hellmann about this and he said it wasn't to difficult. Said the cruise was kind of a pain but it wasn't to hard to swap in a whole 12v.

thanks guys appreciate thin info i know the swap isnt hard but just figured the check engine light and guages would be the hard thing to take caere of thanks again jeremy

Why not get rid of the stock gauge cluster and engine wiring harness? Just run aftermarket gauges in a custom bezel. It makes the engine compartment much cleaner too. I guess the bad part would be if his truck is an auto. A manual truck would be much easier to do above mod.

-Tom

The electrical side can be a big pain with the 01 - 02 trucks. The cam sensor is in the wrong place so the computer does not know the truck is running. Basically the fuel pump, alternator, A/C etc will not work unless you address this problem.

smokin cummins thank you that is what ive been looking for ive been told this and told that to my friends and noone believes me thanks again everyone

tom this truck is a automatic i told him to buy and intellidash he laughed at me he doesnt want to put that much money in it for all the other guages since its a daily driver

bonesmx2000 said:

thanks guys appreciate thin info i know the swap isnt hard but just figured the check engine light and guages would be the hard thing to take caere of thanks again jeremy

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I only get two codes with mine, 1689 and a 0122 codes. No com to the IP, and APPS voltage low. No light. Get the cam sensor kit, and you should be good to go.

im going to talk to brad and see what he wants to do with the truck 4 sure b4 we make a decision thanks for the help

how is the streetability with the P pump????? I would like to stick with the same horse that i have now but run the p7100. Prolly have to go with twins right???

Streetability is subjective, and the whole p-pump conversion can lead to heated debates.

In a nutshell, if you want simply a reliable truck with good street manners, a p pump with a stock, or mild tuned pump will work excellent. The price involved is not worth it in my opinion - Even if you have to change a VP every 100,000, it would be cheaper to leave the VP on the truck.

For all out competition, a P-pump is about the only choice. Street manners are non existent. While you can drive them on the street, it is a hassle at best. Working the truck will not happen.

In between these two extremes lie the daily driven truck in the 400-600 horse range. This is a range that a VP has very near stock manners simply because of the electronics and infinately adjustable timing all done via the trucks computer. Easy to drive, very capable of running a heavy load and still able to tear up the street with the push of a button. A P-pump in that range is not as simple especially in the upper power range. They become smokey, jerky and unable to pull a load (realistically). If you don't tow heavy, you can get by with one in this power range, but if you work the truck hard, you will have to tune the truck for work instead of play which will mean lowering the power. If you don't tow heavy, you can get by fine in this power range and streetability is managable. Working the truck is where things get complicated.

BTW, the biggest problem doing a conversion on a 01-02 IS the cam sensor issue. The kit does not work. I have spent more time working on the cam sensor issue than I have on the whole conversion on the puller.

well thats kinda what ive been hearing, I think i'm gonna lean towards keeping what i have for now and when the stock vp goes bad i'll just stick a HRVP on there. Thanks for all the help.

366ci_cummins said:

well thats kinda what ive been hearing, I think i'm gonna lean towards keeping what i have for now and when the stock vp goes bad i'll just stick a HRVP on there. Thanks for all the help.

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Stick with the SO VP. I had the HRVP on my truck, and I think thats why I love the p-pump so much, because the HRVP was so bad. It was a nice boost in power, but surged on light throttle, poor idle, etc. Mine was from Industrial Injection, picked it up at the end of 05.


Whats the deal with the cam kit on the newer trucks?

366ci_cummins said:

well thats kinda what ive been hearing, I think i'm gonna lean towards keeping what i have for now and when the stock vp goes bad i'll just stick a HRVP on there. Thanks for all the help.

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Did you find out about the group buy with DPP?

HRVP

I loved my HRVP on my truck; if I wanted lots of smoke without the redline then it was there. Now that Im selling the truck, I took the HRVP off and now if I want smoke I have to turn the redline on. And I think that I have sold now!! Now I just have to sell the HRVP. But I never had trouble or surging with it. Does have a cool idle to it though.

Tate said:

Stick with the SO VP. I had the HRVP on my truck, and I think thats why I love the p-pump so much, because the HRVP was so bad. It was a nice boost in power, but surged on light throttle, poor idle, etc. Mine was from Industrial Injection, picked it up at the end of 05.


Whats the deal with the cam kit on the newer trucks?

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