a little tip for those moving their hitches forward

G

getblown5.9

Ceritified Kleenex Dealer
on my second gen long bed, there were already holes there from the factory to move the hitch back 4" its not much but every little bit helps i suppose.
 
i only went 4 because i still tow a trailer every now and then, i had only a very short time to do it, and I want to keep my stock bumper for now. if i get a roll pan and the truck becomes sled only, then i can move it forward more, ditch the spare, and strengthen it up some.
 
Funny that you should mention this, I was just under my truck today with Scott Vorhees telling me how to do this. I see the extra holes, looks like about a 4" move I can do.
 
dont most pepole move them forward so it would have less levrage if it was closer 2 the axle -----------------H ---------------------------------H
0 0 witch will have more leverage
 
It depends on how you look at it.

Less leverage to lift the front of the truck.
More leverage to lift up on the sled.

Those are the same thing.

About turning, just make you hitch that you pull the trailer with stick out of the reciever about 8 inches then you are close to the orginal turning. I used solid 2" for the hitch, because I thought the hollow tubes might bend.
 
Ive been looking to move mine forward. On a 05 dodge they have a different style hitch. Looks like if I drill new holes and cut out the inside of the frame I might get 3-4 inches. What I was wondering was is there a better way to do this like buy an aftermarket reese hitch? Would this allow me to go forward 8-10 inches. Right now my hooking point is 55 inches from my rear axle.
 
So which is going to give you more of an advantage, a higher hitch height or moving the hitch forward? The reason I ask is because my hitch height is only 19" but I don't want to lift my truck (going fast is my first passion)

That leaves me with the option of fabbing a taller hitch that would have to be back past the bumper, or leaving my hitch hight low and moving the whole deal forward.

edit: right now I run a clevis hitch wiht a 6" rise
 
silvercummins96 said:
lose the bumper and go forward and up
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Thats what I'm thinking for the Tuckahoe pull, but this weekend's pull is at the Buck. Knowing their tech guys, they will probably want to stick in in the modified class if I either notch my bumper or take it off.
 
oldschoolPSD said:
Thats what I'm thinking for the Tuckahoe pull, but this weekend's pull is at the Buck. Knowing their tech guys, they will probably want to stick in in the modified class if I either notch my bumper or take it off.
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Huh? I guess they don't go by Street Diesel DHRA rules at the Buck?

Hitch:
The hitch must be a "Reese"-style hitch; reinforcements are permitted. Trick hitches are prohibited. The hooking point must be the rear-most point on the vehicle and must be rearward of the stock location of the tailgate. The hitch must be horizontal to the ground and stationary in all directions. Bumpers may be notched or removed. The hitch's height from the ground may not exceed 26 inches. The hooking point must have a minimum 3.00 inch inside diameter opening for the sled hook. The hooking point will be measured to the center of the clevis loop.
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getblown5.9 said:
hell no...they make their rules up on the spot at the buck
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If I saw that place on fire I wouldnt stop and pee on it to put the fire out.They treat pullers like crap.Makeing up rules on the spot is an under statement
 
at the last pull i had to explain the rules to the tech guy and tell him what was what on my truck. i guess im too fair, i could have pulled street class, he didn't know any better.

this time tho I am printing the rules and taking them with me, so i can show them the rule that cost me $130 and then they didnt enforce last time.
 
Sounds like you and several other pullers need to get on the same page, print out the rules and persuade them mafia style...
 
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