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Old 11-05-2017, 10:19 PM   #1
dangerous06
 
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2012new build No Start

Got the motor in, Full delete everything is gone! New EFI Live tunes loaded and no start?! Cranks over fine just not firing Cracked lines has fuel at tubes. Checked everything several times and nothing Has new batteries and NO codes! Going to try either tomorrow! Any thoughts before I spray it??
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Old 11-05-2017, 11:02 PM   #2
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What is actual fuel rail pressure while cranking? I’m going with my normal of it being crossover tubes.
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Old 11-07-2017, 02:59 PM   #3
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Turned out to be the fuel system on these trucks do not purge themselves! I had to crack the lines to release the air. then a quick shot of either to make it spin a bit faster and instant on! Runs like a kitten. Now have to drive it 2 300 miles mildly for the trans to relearn everything damn these trans suck!
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Old 11-07-2017, 04:38 PM   #4
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I’ve never had to ether anything on a new build other than a pulling motor
Especially not a common rail
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Old 11-07-2017, 05:43 PM   #5
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It will show its fuel system issues later.
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Old 11-07-2017, 06:21 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dangerous06 View Post
Turned out to be the fuel system on these trucks do not purge themselves! I had to crack the lines to release the air. then a quick shot of either to make it spin a bit faster and instant on! Runs like a kitten. Now have to drive it 2 300 miles mildly for the trans to relearn everything damn these trans suck!
This is so not right.



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Old 11-07-2017, 06:48 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dangerous06 View Post
Turned out to be the fuel system on these trucks do not purge themselves! I had to crack the lines to release the air. then a quick shot of either to make it spin a bit faster and instant on! Runs like a kitten. Now have to drive it 2 300 miles mildly for the trans to relearn everything damn these trans suck!
You own a diesel repair business, OP?

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Old 11-07-2017, 10:44 PM   #8
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I'm curious if it has restarted from a cold soak yet.

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Old 11-07-2017, 10:51 PM   #9
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You own a diesel repair business, OP?

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He obviously does work on the side, with every problem he has, he runs here looking for us to bail him out.


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Old 11-08-2017, 07:46 AM   #10
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I do this on the side to help out my fellow Cummins enthusiasts! First time replacing a 6.7
the 5.9 is a breeze to start! Bre go pack sand I come here to ask people for help when I need it and give it when I've had their problem. You are here to be a smart ass probably a troll on other forums and a live at home diesel wannabe. Comp D is for knowledge shared by a bunch of guys that love what they do!
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48RE, 5" exhaust,Carrillo rods, Pacbrake!
 
Old 11-08-2017, 07:47 AM   #11
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Biggy sat overnight instant on love it! trans on the other hand should be banned from existence!
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E.D. 66-74-091, T-4 exhaust, 2 Micron filter pre CP3, EFI, S&B intake, ARP 625 head studs, 182-214 Hamilton Cam,springs and push rods,40% injectors, Banks Intercooler, T&C CP-3 & PRV, Built
48RE, 5" exhaust,Carrillo rods, Pacbrake!
 
Old 11-08-2017, 07:53 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dangerous06 View Post
I do this on the side to help out my fellow Cummins enthusiasts! First time replacing a 6.7

the 5.9 is a breeze to start! Bre go pack sand I come here to ask people for help when I need it and give it when I've had their problem. You are here to be a smart ass probably a troll on other forums and a live at home diesel wannabe. Comp D is for knowledge shared by a bunch of guys that love what they do!


Yes sir! Seems you got me figured out!


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Old 11-08-2017, 09:06 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dangerous06 View Post
Turned out to be the fuel system on these trucks do not purge themselves! I had to crack the lines to release the air. then a quick shot of either to make it spin a bit faster and instant on! Runs like a kitten. Now have to drive it 2 300 miles mildly for the trans to relearn everything damn these trans suck!
Yeah, no...CR shouldn't have to crack crap to bleed...We do it all the time on tractors, swap parts and start them...

Chris
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Old 11-08-2017, 09:22 AM   #14
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I'm curious if the low side fuel system needed to purge.


Don't ever crack CR lines for bleeding again. Please.

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Old 11-08-2017, 09:33 AM   #15
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yeah at what? 26000 psi thatll make a hole in ya right quick
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Old 11-08-2017, 07:09 PM   #16
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Bre just going from your picture! What shoul;d I think......It's a joke BRO!
As far as the cracked lines I thought the same thing NO WAAY but the tuner said try it Idle is 5 7k so cranking maybe 2 3k But when I cracked them they only gurgled out air and then a steady stream no pressure. talked to a friend and he see's this a lot led me to the quick shot of either to spin it a bit faster! so all good learning curve!!
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E.D. 66-74-091, T-4 exhaust, 2 Micron filter pre CP3, EFI, S&B intake, ARP 625 head studs, 182-214 Hamilton Cam,springs and push rods,40% injectors, Banks Intercooler, T&C CP-3 & PRV, Built
48RE, 5" exhaust,Carrillo rods, Pacbrake!
 
Old 11-09-2017, 06:25 AM   #17
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anyone messing with ether isn't messing with my truck or tractors....if its right itll start...not like yer pouring gallons of fuel in an open class puller
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Old 11-09-2017, 08:00 AM   #18
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Lots of Piss & Vinegar!
That always cures the problems, eh?

I had a 2006 a while back that had a broken number 4 line and had sat for a year afterwards.
Replaced the line, did every trick I could to get it to fire, would NOT bleed the system.
Took just a mild whiff of ether and never a problem afterwards...
Until the starter died, which was the whole problem.

I found that the ECMs need to see a certain cranking RPM, plus a minimum pressure and air in the system tends to mess up that equation, sometimes.

So will weak starters, batteries, or bad connections, or even a tiny fuel leak.

Mark.
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Old 11-09-2017, 11:26 AM   #19
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Hahahaha hahah I typed a post the other night about CATs and engine speed and then deleted it.
I cobbled a C10 cat into a C12, started it with ether and it checked OK, so I sent it to the customer (on a stand). They installed it and it would not start.

The there was a serial number split for a different style tone wheel. CAT starts on the crank sensor, and runs on the cam sensor.
Cummins isn't this way. By feeding it with ether, I allowed the engine to see enough RPM to overcome the component issue.

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