Rust Proofing a Chassis, What to Use

Meyers Farms

Meyers Farms

Active member
I just picked up a 2004 F350 with a service body. The cab is really clean and does not have any rust. I pulled the service body and will be installing a flatbed. The frame has some surface rust on it. While the bed is off I’d like to undercoat the chassis to prevent rust as long as I can. What do you guys recommend from personal experience?
POR-15?
RustBullet?
Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer?

Something else? Thanks!
 
POR-15 has my vote. A light coat of surface rust is perfect to apply it to, and once it sets up you have to grind it off. That includes skin. Wear gloves

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk
 
+1 on Por-15. I recommend spraying cheap undercoating over top of it, Por-15 isn't UV resistant.

Most people that don't like it didn't prep the surface correctly.
 
Up here in the rust belt, Poe-15 works for a few years. The platinum encapsulator from Eastwood is awesome. It’s a rustproofing enamel.
 
I used chassis saver on the back half of my frame, and I spent days prepping it. The back half I sprayed and it didn't hold up but for a year maybe, the front half I brushed on and it has held up great. I may have thinned it wrong when I sprayed it but that's just my 2c
 
So, what magic chemical will fix this rust issue on a 5.9 Commonrail? :hehe:

Mark.
 

Attachments

  • 1551646714845188152210.jpg
    1551646714845188152210.jpg
    278.4 KB · Views: 0
  • 15516467755861309717583.jpg
    15516467755861309717583.jpg
    350 KB · Views: 0
Mark Nixon said:
Before or after a hard power washing? ;)
I expect holes to appear in the cast iron if I power washed it, honestly.
It seems THAT bad!
~135,000 engine that was in a plow truck from around Pitt. PA.

Mark.
Click to expand...

Pennsylvania rust has claimed many vehicles of mine over the years. :soap:
 
After more research I ordered Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. What sold me was the great reviews and the UV resistance.
 
JWhite said:
Heavy coating of Fluid Film in the places you can't see will do wonders. LPS #3 works too but has more of a waxy haze when it dries
Click to expand...

I use fluid film [not the spray can either] on the underside/nooks/crannies of vehicles. Applied twice a year works pretty well in my area. The further north you get the more often it needs applied.
 
CorneliusRox said:
It definitely depends on the quality of work out of the shop you go to!
Click to expand...

I thought the whole ziebart thing was a joke; I just googled it and they're still in business! Every ziebart anywhere near me went out of business in the early 80's after every chevy vega they did claimed warranty after they rotted out anyway. The car in my barn is a '70 Chrysler 300H that my grandfather bought new and had it ziebarted promtly. Needless to say she has quit a bit of cancer awaiting my attention.
 
mhuggler said:
I thought the whole ziebart thing was a joke; I just googled it and they're still in business! Every ziebart anywhere near me went out of business in the early 80's after every chevy vega they did claimed warranty after they rotted out anyway. The car in my barn is a '70 Chrysler 300H that my grandfather bought new and had it ziebarted promtly. Needless to say she has quit a bit of cancer awaiting my attention.
Click to expand...

I bought my truck from Texas, and had it coated right away. That's a hefty cleaning, underbody spray, and 'honey spray' in all the body overlap areas. The truck still looks great and cleaner than one winter old trucks.

My NFab running boards that were powder coated... They don't look as good.
 
What you need to remember is rustproofing as only as good as the shop that applies it. Zeibart, Krown, Rust Check etc are just brand owners and product distributors. Each location is independently owned, and you could have an amazing one two towns over from a shoddy one.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top