Getting everything possible out of a sovp...... Drag truck build/questions with pics

[diesel_importer]

I left around 15 psi with my single 467. 12 pounds in my M&H 12.0/16's worked the best for me.


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[98silver12v]

Originally Posted by diesel_importer

I left around 15 psi with my single 467. 12 pounds in my M&H 12.0/16's worked the best for me.


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you running tubes in the slicks? how big of a slick are you running? rear suspension setup? just caltracs? do you know how heavy your truck is? have you stripped it down at all?

[diesel_importer]

Yes, tubes in the slicks, Real Wheel 16x12 wheels with tire screws. M&H 12.0/16's is what they're called, can't remember the height.
I have 2 leafs with Caltracs. QA1 shocks, but they are only single adjustable.
It's around 6k lbs, nothing stripped really. I've had the truck for 10 years and don't want to hack it up.



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[diesel_importer]

By the way, I couldn't seem to get much under 13's with my SOVP. Found a used Monster pump and it helped, but I've seen guys run with me on an SOVP


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[98silver12v]

Originally Posted by diesel_importer

By the way, I couldn't seem to get much under 13's with my SOVP. Found a used Monster pump and it helped, but I've seen guys run with me on an SOVP


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guess ill keep my eyes open for a good deal on a turned up vp whats the best 60 foot you have gone? and how hard did you launch with that 60?
kind of a rookie question but whats your "routine " to do a burn out ...... i know get in the water box and roll out and heat up the tires but do you have a specific time you do the burn out or gears you go through etc
ive been experimenting with mine and havent found what works for me the best yet

[diesel_importer]

I usually drive around the water and back in, burn out pretty good, and launch around 12-15 psi depending on how it feels. Best 60' in my street 2wd is 1.69


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[98silver12v]

Little progress on removing the interior Dash pieces to shed more weight and some old pictures of the back-end going together before the race

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[Financial Mistake]

Ditch all but one spring, ditch those factory shocks for something adjustable. The Ranchos work decent if you're on a budget. And you gotta get some kinda traction bar under there, that's killing you right now. Caltracs are great, I have a set and they're awesome on the street, but even a set of home built bars will be better than what you have right now. I have a set of mounts for sell if your interested. Also, I just noticed that you don't have much travel in the rear suspension. From what I can see, you've got maybe an inch before the frame contacts the axle. That's not going to work. You're going to need to cut a bigger C notch and brace the hell out of it, and add some small bump stops as well.

Get your truck on a scale and find out how unbalanced your truck is. Losing weight is ok, but your pulling it out of the back and middle, and none out of the front, where it's heavier. You need to transfer as much weight to the rear tires as possible. Start ditching anything you can out of the front. Toss one of the batteries, move the other to the back. Inner fenders can go too. Pull the front bumper off, don't need that. AC, don't need that, toss that stuff.

You want the front to lift up as soon as you launch and settle back down slowly as you go down the track. Caltrac sells some 90/10 shocks that'll help with that.

Once you shed every ounce you can out of the front and get the suspension done, you'll need to add ballasts to the rear so you can put more weight over the rear axle, and be able to adjust that weight to one side of the bed or the other. You don't have the advantage of a front axle for additional traction, so you need to make those rear tires plant. I plan on running a piece of C channel over the axle and build ballasts out of square tubing filled with concrete, capped off on the ends and handles welded on, as close to 100lbs per ballast as I can get, and two 50lb ballasts as well. I figure about 300-400lbs on hand will be good so I can play with weight and depending on the track I can add or remove weight as needed. And to secure them, I'm going to cut some big chain links and weld them to the channel so I can strap down the ballasts to keep them safe and secure, but look at your rules so you can adhere to any safety rules they may have about ballast mounting.

Hope this helps.


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[98silver12v]

Originally Posted by Financial Mistake

Ditch all but one spring, ditch those factory shocks for something adjustable. The Ranchos work decent if you're on a budget. And you gotta get some kinda traction bar under there, that's killing you right now. Caltracs are great, I have a set and they're awesome on the street, but even a set of home built bars will be better than what you have right now. I have a set of mounts for sell if your interested. Also, I just noticed that you don't have much travel in the rear suspension. From what I can see, you've got maybe an inch before the frame contacts the axle. That's not going to work. You're going to need to cut a bigger C notch and brace the hell out of it, and add some small bump stops as well.

Get your truck on a scale and find out how unbalanced your truck is. Losing weight is ok, but your pulling it out of the back and middle, and none out of the front, where it's heavier. You need to transfer as much weight to the rear tires as possible. Start ditching anything you can out of the front. Toss one of the batteries, move the other to the back. Inner fenders can go too. Pull the front bumper off, don't need that. AC, don't need that, toss that stuff.

You want the front to lift up as soon as you launch and settle back down slowly as you go down the track. Caltrac sells some 90/10 shocks that'll help with that.

Once you shed every ounce you can out of the front and get the suspension done, you'll need to add ballasts to the rear so you can put more weight over the rear axle, and be able to adjust that weight to one side of the bed or the other. You don't have the advantage of a front axle for additional traction, so you need to make those rear tires plant. I plan on running a piece of C channel over the axle and build ballasts out of square tubing filled with concrete, capped off on the ends and handles welded on, as close to 100lbs per ballast as I can get, and two 50lb ballasts as well. I figure about 300-400lbs on hand will be good so I can play with weight and depending on the track I can add or remove weight as needed. And to secure them, I'm going to cut some big chain links and weld them to the channel so I can strap down the ballasts to keep them safe and secure, but look at your rules so you can adhere to any safety rules they may have about ballast mounting.

Hope this helps.


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thanks for the info and advice i should have been more specific and have updated pictures which i thought i had but cant find them currently. i moved the battery to the back behind the fuel cell and cut as much inner fenders on both sides as possible without moving the mess of wiring on the divers side currently i ditched my heavy front bumper i had for a sport bumper which im sure i could possibly cut some frame work out to ditch more weight there. i havent weighed the truck at each corner just over all at the last nhrda event in slc a little bit ago and weighed 5800 pounds with me in it and all the dash etc that i have sense pulled out. As far as rear suspension setup i agree unfortunately my go pro camera stopped working so i have no video of what the rear end of the truck was doing going down the track.... to me it doesnt seem like there is enough movement out back as you also stated. but i dont think it was transferring enough to bottom out and hit the rear axle... at least that i noticed ( i would figure i would be able to feel that or feel it unload or something of the rear end....) im currently looking into some type of caltrac bars etc. but where i did the leaf under the axle im looking at the best way to tie into the leafs now that they are below the axle.... any recommendations? i have the factory overload leaf still in ( or whatever its called that is shorter then the rest and on the bottom of the pack) which i believe i will need to remove to put any bars on if i tied them back to the leaf spring area...... i used to have trac bars on before i did the leaf under but they where welded to the bottom of the factory plate for the ubolts and now thats gone... possibly going to just make a bracket and weld it to the axle next to the leafs but then it would just be a trac bar unless i stepped up and did one on the top and bottom type and start working towards a 4 link setup.....good idea bad idea? again trying to do this on a budget so the nice kits that are out there are probably out of the picture right now. i need to look into adjustable shocks but i also feel like there is more to be had with my current setup with minor tweaks or changes before i start stepping up and going with different shocks 4 link that kinf of thing ..... maybe ? maybe not?
ac is deleted
what more can be done to the front end to get the travel like you mentioned ? just going with a after market shock will do that or is there more that can be done? currently front end suspension is all stock

[Financial Mistake]

Half ton v6 springs and a 90/10 shock will help out up front. 5800lbs is HEAVY for a 2wd truck. You need to be in the low 5000s to really make 750hp fast.

Since you did the spring under, you'll have to either fabricate your own system, or possibly contact Calvert Racing and see what they can build you.

I don't think you're putting down so much power that you need links and coil overs, guys have gone very fast on leafs. You just need to sit down and figure out how you're going to get the weight to transfer, and then plant it all to the track.

There's not much to be had with a stock suspension on a 2wd truck. Either your launching so soft that your 60' will suck, or you'll launch so hard you blow the tires off and your 60' will suck.

At the very least, put more weight over the rear axle. I think cutting out the bed on a 2wd leaf spring truck is not a great idea, you just eliminated about 300lbs worth of traction.

Now you'll have to either add that back, plus enough to balance out the truck, or figure out how to pull 300 more pounds out of the front.

Or make more power so you can make up time. But frankly, you're at the threshold of your fuel system as it is. So traction is what you need to focus on. Like I said, tons of guys have gone fast with a 2wd leaf spring truck. Follow their lead, don't try to reinvent the wheel here. Use the things that work.


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